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Destination: Best Bets in Playa del Carmen
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The booming restaurant scene in this Mexican beach town produces some real winners
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BY BARBARA PECK | PHOTOGRAPHY BY SARA REMINGTON
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Diners at Luna Maya can sit indoors or out on the terrace; pasta is made hourly at Cenacola; a taco de chilorio (marinated pork) at Los Aguachiles, the ultimate taco joint.
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Playa del Carmen has long been known as the top place on the Riviera Maya for food. For decades, chefs from all over have been lured to this low-rise town, an hour south of Cancún, by the dream of opening their own little place by the beach. But when a few margarita-and-mariachi chain restaurants moved in, it began to look as if Playa’s incredible range of dining options might be overrun.
Luckily, that hasn’t been the case. New restaurants are still sprouting, and they’re sleek and sophisticated, hip and quirky—anything but run-of-the-mill. As new places open, others close, so you never know quite what to expect. The following are some current faves, but as you stroll along Fifth Avenue, Playa’s pedestrian-only main street (also known as La Quinta), keep your eyes peeled for the next hot spot.
La Ceiba
Most Playa restaurants are on Fifth Avenue, but not this one. La Ceiba is a no-frills open-air spot on 30th Avenue, just a few blocks off Fifth. Sit at wooden tables for a traditional Mexican breakfast (chilaquiles, huevos rancheros) and stellar juice concoctions (try the Maya energy drink, made with celery, cucumber and chaya, a leaf used by the Maya). The restaurant is conveniently attached to a small grocery store selling fresh produce, flowers, herbs and spices and those striped tote bags that are so indispensable in Mexico (and make great souvenirs). 30th Ave. at Constituyentes St.; 52-984-873-3334; breakfast for two, $15*
La Cueva del Chango
Fifth Avenue is gradually extending its boundaries, and one of the first spots to open at the northern “newer” end was this jungly restaurant (the name means The Monkey’s Cave). It tends to be crammed with locals at breakfast time on weekends, so go on a weekday. A curving roof covers part of La Cueva, but you can also sit at outdoor tables beside a trickling stream where koi and turtles swim. Families take over big tables in the leafy garden, feasting on crepes and milkshakes. 38th St. N. between Fifth Ave. and the beach; 52-984-147-0271; breakfast for two, $20
Fusion Beach Bar & Grill
Sometimes the old-school places still resonate. Fusion, a Caribbean-style beach hangout, feels as if it’s been around for 25 years (in a good way). Grab a table under a beach umbrella so you can wiggle your toes in the sand while you snack on guacamole, salads, calamari and frosty cervezas. A towering palapa (palm roof) and cement floor keep the interior cool and comfortable; the long bar will have you pondering a return that evening. 6th St. at the beach; 52-984-873-0374; lunch for two, $40
Hotel Básico
This Veracruzan seafood restaurant sits on the terrace of a 15-room “industrial contemporary” hotel made largely of recycled materials (the lobby floor, for example, is lined with new tires discarded because of manufacturing defects). Ride the wire elevator to the breezy second floor, which has views of the ocean a block away. Hip staffers wear orange Ts and have a laid-back air; what’s the rush? Order guacamole, seviche and the stellar poblano pepper stuffed with corn and cheese. Fifth Ave. at 10th St.; 52-984-879-4448; lunch for two, $35
Los Aguachiles
What’s not to like about Aguachiles? Everything’s colorful, starting with the food: Tacos sparkle like jewels on the plate, artfully garnished with sliced red cabbage, avocado, onion, lime and cilantro. Nine homemade sauces sit in squeeze bottles on your table. It may look like a backstreet taco joint, but unexpected touches (striped doors, a wire rack of bottles forming a low wall) give it away: The savvy design team set out to make it look like a backstreet taco joint. A dessert of sliced apple coated with tamarind and chamoy sauce sums up the basic philosophy here: so simple, so delicious. 34th St. at 25th Ave.; 52-984-849-1442; lunch for two, $45
Luna Maya
A private elevator whisks you to this elegant second-floor restaurant at the quiet north end of Fifth Avenue. You can sit inside, but the teak tables on the balcony overlooking the street are lovely. Chef Raúl Pineda’s pan-Mexican food is more ambitious than you’ll find in other places here. It would be a huge mistake to ignore the breadbasket (three flavors: banana, garlic and rum). Chipotle scallops come robed in foam, and there’s a zucchini-flower risotto with huitlacoche (corn fungus) and black truffle oil. Or try Tikinxic fish, baked the Yucatecan way in a banana leaf. The Delirium of Chocolate makes a perfect end to the meal—or you could plead with your waiter to bring another breadbasket. Fifth Ave. N. at 38th St.; 52-984-879-43-94; dinner for two, $60
Cenacolo
Book ahead at this small but high-end Italian spot on Fifth Avenue. At first it may seem odd that most of the tables are right on the street, and there’s even a guy rolling dough and cutting pasta at a table out front as passers-by stop to gawk. Despite the informal setting, everything’s high-quality, from the handsome menus to the custom-made cutlery; even the crowd is glossy. As for the food, it’s beautifully prepared and presented and delicious (try the cappelletti with ricotta). This place has a sense of drama: Watch for a waiter wielding an absurdly gigantic pepper grinder or pouring wine from a long-stemmed glass decanter. Fifth Ave. at 28th St.; 52-984-803-5705; dinner for two, $80
Aldea Corazón
This restaurant was opened less than a year ago by a family that owns several other successful Playa eateries. Tables are set up in the stylish interior (where the bar is made of rocks piled inside a wire frame) and in a multilevel garden out back, whose fountains, ficus trees and gravel underfoot make it feel far removed from the busy street. Candles and torches add to the romantic mood. The kitchen re-creates tastes from all over Mexico: blue tortillas are “burned” (toasted) to bring out flavor; the chinampa chicken breast is stuffed with goat cheese and zucchini flowers. Fifth Ave. between 14th and 16th Sts.; 52-984-803 1942; dinner for two, $60
*Converted to U.S. dollars. Meal prices do not include drinks, tax or tip.
STAY
RCI affiliated resorts near Playa del Carmen include:
The Grand Mayan Riviera Maya 6973
A crystal-clear beachfront perfect for water sports, an 18-hole golf course and many outdoor dining options. Km. 48, Carr. Federal Cancún–Playa del Carmen
Member Review: "Endless, beautiful pools."
Hacienda Tres Rios A475
This all-inclusive resort is set in a 326-acre nature park with jungle trails. Km. 54, Carr. Federal, Carrillo Puerto-Cancún
Member Review: "The resort is wonderful. The units are well maintained and very nice."
Club Melia at Paradisus Playa del Carmen La Esmeralda, L.G. C758
Spacious suites with marble floors and private terraces with Jacuzzis. 5A Ave. Esq. Calle 88 Norte, Playa del Carmen
El Dorado Royale, A Spa Resort 6290
A romantic, adults-only destination with 13 pools, a spa, hiking, scuba clinics and tennis. Km. 45, Carr. Cancún–Tulum
Member Review: “Very clean, friendly staff, great service and good drinks
and food.”
Aventura Cove Palace C143
This family-friendly all-inclusive resort has tennis courts, a pool and restaurants. Km. 72, Carr. Cancún–Tulum, Puerto Aventuras
Member Review: “The staff served us just like we were the Royal Family.”
For complete member reviews (as member reviews have been condensed) and additional resort listings, visit RCI.com
or call 800-338-7777 (Weeks) or 877-968-7476 (Points). Club Members, please call your specific Club or RCI telephone number.
Non-RCI affiliated resorts:
Iberostar Paraíso Beach Km. 309, Carr. Chetumal–Puerto Juárez, Playa del Carmen; 52-984-877-28-00; iberostar.com
; doubles from $206 per night, all-inclusive
Banyan Tree Mayakoba Km. 298, Carr. Federal Chetumal–Puerto Juárez, Playa del Carmen; 52-984-877-36-88; banyantree.com; doubles from $635 per night
La Tortuga Hotel 10th Ave. between 12th and 14th St. N., Playa del Carmen; 866-550-6878; hotellatortuga.com; doubles from $97 per night
Hotel Lunata Fifth Ave. between Sixth and Eighth St., Playa del Carmen; 52-984-873-0884; lunata.com; doubles from $120 per night
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Published: Fall 2012
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