Until the 1950s, crossing an ocean meant going by ship. Wealthy passengers would board with steamer trunks full of lavish outfits to wear as they promenaded the decks and descended mahogany staircases (we’ve all seen Titanic). Then in 1958, Pan Am launched its trans-atlantic jet service, cutting flight time from an agonizing 12 hours to six—and bringing an end to what was once “the only way to cross.”
But it’s still possible to traverse the Atlantic by ship, and the trip has become more than ever a rite of passage. Sure, you can always fly over to London in an airborne tin can, but how much more elegant—and relaxing—it is to sail.
While many cruise ships cross the Atlantic just once or twice a year (see “Changing Lanes,” pg. 22), only Cunard’s Queen Elizabeth 2, Queen Mary 2 and Queen Victoria (newly launched in December) were specially designed for crossings—their deep drafts and streamlined, iron-heavy hulls help them slice through the occasionally turbulent seas. And only the QM2 makes the trip regularly year-round (the QE2, sadly, will cease sailing this November).
Never made a crossing? You must have questions. We’re here to help.
Q: I’ve heard that crossings are often rough. Will I get seasick?
A: Massive stabilizers onboard the Cunard vessels reduce rolling by as much as 85 percent—so even with waves as high as 20 feet, you may feel little more than a comfortable rocking. However, that can be enough to induce nausea in some passengers. (Others never succumb, no matter how much the ship pitches and rolls.) A number of over-the-counter treatments may help quell queasiness (always check with your physician before taking any medication). Obviously, the time of year makes a difference—summer’s your best bet, but the North Atlantic’s weather is notoriously unpredictable.
Q: Uh-oh, the waves are actually getting pretty high out there, and I’m feeling a bit punk. Now what?
A: If over-the-counter remedies aren’t helping, you can ask the ship’s doctor for a shot of Phenergan, an antihistamine. Or see if there’s an acupuncturist onboard. Failing that, take comfort in the fact that most people do become acclimatized eventually. When seas are especially rough, the captain generally alters course for passengers’ comfort.
Q: I’ve never cruised because I’m afraid I’ll feel trapped.
A: Excuse me, but have you seen the size of these ships? At its launch in 2004, the QM2 was the world’s largest passenger vessel, with cabin space for 3,090, dozens of public rooms and miles of hallways. And if you’re craving alone time, there are secluded corners all over the ship—or you can curl up with a book in your cozy private cabin.
Q: Won’t I get fat as a seal with all the food that’s constantly available?
A: It’s true that extraordinary meals are a highlight. QM2 passengers scarf down an average of 45 pounds of sevruga caviar on each six-day crossing. But executive chef Klaus Kremer reports that food consumption invariably tails off as passengers proceed from “It’s delicious and all included!” to “I can’t possibly eat a fifth meal today.” Plus, there is a gym.
Q: All day at sea—for almost a week? Bo-ring!
A: Wrong, wrong, wrong! The QM2’s daily newsletter lists so many activities that you’ll have several things to do (besides eat) in every time slot. We’re talking wine tastings, cooking demos, a planetarium show (as if being out in the middle of the Atlantic isn’t enough to make you feel like a speck in the universe!), dance lessons, ship tours (the bridge, the galley) and even the traditional napkin-folding session. Oh, and don’t forget the spa, the casino, theater shows and the many bars with top-notch pianists. The library onboard the QM2 proved to be such a hit that the new Victoria has a two-story library with more than 6,000 books. And forget shuffleboard: Victoria offers the first onboard fencing program.
Q: Isn’t it hideously expensive?
A: It doesn’t have to be. The rock-bottom fare for a QM2 crossing is a surprisingly reasonable $1,195 per person, double occupancy. But that’s for interior accommodations; if you plan to spend much time luxuriating in your private quarters, consider an exterior cabin, ideally one with a balcony. For that, prices start at $1,345 (flights are extra). That’s $224 per night, all meals included—for a legendary voyage.
Q: I hear there are three “formal” nights during the crossing. What the heck do I wear?
A: Yes, you heard right—but not to worry. While men do need a tuxedo (or a dark dress suit), women can certainly get by without three formal outfits. Floor-length ball gowns aren’t called for—a fancy cocktail dress and some sparkly earrings will do nicely, and no one will say a thing if you wear the same dress three times.
Q: I’ll miss my dog if I’m away for a whole week.
A: OK, now you’re just casting about for excuses. But in any case: The QM2’s kennels can accommodate 12 dogs and cats, with a mini life jacket for each. If you don’t bring your own pet, you can go visit someone else’s. On a recent sailing, a 14-year-old one-eyed pug was blithely roaming the exercise room on his journey back to the United States after a three-year sojourn in England. Transatlantic crossing? Piece of dog biscuit!