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Good Value: Kauai For Less
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The lush, unspoiled landscapes of Kauai are still a bargain
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BY DREW LIMSKY | PHOTOGRAPHY BY OLIVIER KONING
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Staffers at Progressive Expressions, a surf shop in Koloa; the cliffs of the Na Pali coast; hikers on the Kalalau Trail.
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Though it covers only 550 square miles, the Hawaiian island of Kauai holds an astonishing range of visitor attractions. On the civilized side, you have both the super posh ($13 cocktails at the St. Regis Princeville) and the deliciously humble (the jewel-like $7 tuna sashimi at Fish Express in Lihue). Among the island’s natural wonders, the Na Pali Coast takes first place, with its sheer cliffs, plunging canyon and pristine beaches. But stunning beaches abound on the Garden Island, and like many beauty spots, they’re free and easily accessible. So a killer Kauai vacation can be downright affordable—even with a few splurges. All you need is a rental car, your own two sandal-clad feet and some directions. We’ve got the last part covered.
SOFT LANDING IN POIPU
The tried-and-true Kauai vacation plan is to start in the reliably sunny Poipu area, just south of the airport in Lihue. Family-friendly Poipu Beach offers great reef snorkeling and picnic tables. If you’re looking for more privacy and a sandier bottom, head to the beach between the Sheraton and the Koa Kea, a stylish new boutique hotel. Then make the short drive west along the coast to see the area’s prime natural wonder: Spouting Horn geyser, where ocean waves regularly send majestic plumes of water 30 feet into the air. Across the street you’ll find the National Tropical Botanical Garden. Its manicured Allerton Gardens require a pricey guided tour, so opt for the wilder McBryde Gardens, where visitors can ramble at their leisure amid 252 acres of exotic tropical flora (808-742-2623; ntbg.org; $20).
If shopping is more your thing, a three-mile drive inland will bring you to the former sugar mill town of Koloa. The main street’s plantation-style buildings have been converted into gift shops, art galleries, inexpensive eateries, even a wine shop.
Continue west along the south shore, where the crowds thin out and the terrain turns crimson. Adjust your wardrobe accordingly by picking up a dirt-dyed T-shirt at the Original Red Dirt Shirt Factory in Port Allen (4350 Waialo Rd.; 800-717-3478). Then cool off with a swim at Salt Pond Beach, a protected pocket beach past Burns Airfield. An inland detour brings you to the Waimea Canyon Lookout, where you can drink in the views of this 3,600-foot-deep, 10-mile-long gash in Kauai’s iron-rich earth.
SMART SPLURGE: In Poipu, it’s easy to keep your budget in check, but if you’ve granted yourself one splurge, use it for a lomi-lomi massage at the Grand Hyatt’s renowned Anara Spa (1571 Poipu Rd.; 808-742-1234; from $160). The treatment rooms surround a lap pool with a tempting array of cushy lounge chairs.
HEADING NORTH
Many visitors make a beeline for the enchanted north shore, home to Princeville, Hanalei and the trailhead for the Na Pali Coast. On the way, be sure to stop in Lihue and Kapaa. The big news in Lihue is the opening of the Koloa Rum Co., on the Kilohana Plantation. Owner Greg Schredder proudly hosts free tastings of his small-batch rums, made from local sugar cane (3-2087 Hwy. 50; 808-246-8900). Before hitting the road, grab take-out at Fish Express, a superb fish market in a strip mall (3343 Kuhio Hwy.; 808-245-9918; lunch for two, $15). The fabulously fresh poke (or raw-fish salad) is rightly famous and a bargain at $7.
In the pedestrian-friendly town of Kapaa, you can rent a surfboard (Tamba Surf Co.; 4-1543 Kuhio Hwy.; $25 per day) and hit a nearby beach. This is also the place for river kayaking. The family-run Kayak Wailua offers half-day Wailua River tours for half the price of competitors (808-822-3388; kayakwailua.com; $47 per person). If you’re not feeling so energetic, just roam the streets after you grab a pastry and a coconut pierced by a straw ($3) at the Country Moon Rising Bakery & Café (4-1345 Kuhio Hwy.; 808-822-0345). Afterward, watch artisans blowing glass pendants at the Glass Shack, whose motto is “We kick glass” (4-1345 Kuhio Hwy.; 808-822-2236). Don’t linger too long: the north shore sunsets are not to be missed.
NORTH SHORE
Kauai’s north is wetter than the south, and awash in tropical foliage. But showers are usually brief, and often followed by rainbows, so it’s worth the trade-off. In Princeville, the renovated Princeville Hotel reopened last fall as the Princeville St. Regis Resort (5520 Ka Haku Rd.; 808-826-9644). Though the room rates aren’t anyone’s idea of value, consider ponying up for a drink just to sit on the terrace and gaze at the row of mountains dripping with waterfalls. In the distance you’ll see Makana Mountain rising from the ocean. If it looks oddly familiar, you might be a fan of the 1958 movie South Pacific, in which Makana played the role of Bali Ha’i.
A few minutes’ drive from Princeville is the public beach at Anini. Parking is plentiful and the shallow waters are generally calm. Stop for a swim, but leave time for exploring Hanalei and points west. The town where “Puff the Magic Dragon” lived by the sea is pretty terrific, loaded with shops and cafés. The Backdoor sells sundresses, board shorts and wetsuits. For Polynesian-style fishhook pendants made from abalone shells, check out Evolve Love Artists Gallery. Then refuel with a macadamia nut shake at Shave Ice Paradise in Hanalei Center.
The crescent beach at Hanalei, placid in summer, surf-ready in winter, is lined with discreet residences, and worth a lazy afternoon. From here, a charming drive takes you through a string of north-coast beaches. At the frequent one-lane bridges, drivers wait their turn: The etiquette is to allow seven cars to pass before making your move. Of the north beaches, Lumahai is stunning but has treacherous waters. Haena Beach, also a beauty, is safer for swimming, and Ke’e, at the end of the line, is protected by a reef and has great snorkeling. This sandy spot, with its dramatic wall of cliffs, looks like a postcard from Southeast Asia.
The starting point for the Na Pali Coast’s 11-mile Kalalau Trail is just off Ke’e Beach. Hikers can easily spend a week in the wilds, but even an hour-long hike lets you view the magnificent sweep of coast from on high. Is that Bali Ha’i calling?
EAT
KEOKI'S PARADISE
This raucous Polynesian-themed
restaurant on Poipu Beach is known
for its chicken and ribs. The value-
priced Bamboo Bar offers sliders,
pupus and salads. 2360 Kiahuna
Plantation Dr., Koloa; 808-742-
7534; dinner for two, $75*
SAVAGE SHRIMP TRUCK
Once the south shore road turns
to red dust, keep your eyes peeled
for this food truck. Dining on boiled
shrimp in garlic sauce is an authentic
Kauai experience. Lawai Rd. near
Kuhio Park; shrimp for two, $20
POLYNESIA CAFÉ
This lunch counter (with a sun-
deck) offers pineapple pancakes
for breakfast and flash-seared ahi
with orange-ginger glaze for lunch.
Chocolate habanero cookies make a
quick pick-me-up. Middle of Hanalei;
808-826-1999; lunch for two, $25
HANALEI GOURMET
Grab a coveted table on the veranda
of this deli, which uses local produce
and bakes its own bread. Open all
day. 5-5161 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei
808-826-2524; lunch for two, $20
GAYLORD'S
A romantic room on Kilohana Planta-
tion. Opt for something local, like the
pan-seared island snapper. 3-2087
Kaumualii Hwy., Lihue; 808-245-
9593; dinner for two, $90
*Prices cover a meal for two without drinks, tax or tip.
STAY
RCI-AFFILIATED RESORTS ON KAUAI INCLUDE:
LAWAI BEACH RESORT
Just steps from snorkeler-friendly Poipu Beach.
5017 Lawai Rd., Koloa
Member Reviews:
“From our balcony we could watch whales.”
“The resort staff was wonderful.”
WYNDHAM BALI HAI VILLAS
This resort is near great golf and set amid
cliffs. 4970 Pepelani Loop, Princeville
Member Reviews:
“Great walking paths and sidewalks every-
where.”
“The North Shore is quieter.”
WYNDHAM KA'EO KAI
Close to Princeville’s restaurants and beaches
of Hanalei Bay. 3970 Wyllie Rd., Princeville
Member Reviews:
“The unit floor plans are awesome.” “The Ka’
Eo Kai is right in the middle of paradise.”
WYNDHAM KAUAI BEACH VILLA
Though only minutes from the island’s main
airport, this beachfront resort makes you feel
far away. 4330 Kauai Beach Dr., Lihue
Member Reviews:
“Between all the island’s must-see locations.”
“Easily accessible waterfalls are nearby.”
For more information,
including more member reviews,
visit RCI.com or call
Weeks: 800-338-7777
Points: 877-968-7476
Club Members, please call your specific
Club or RCI telephone number.
NON-RCI-AFFILIATED RESORTS:
GARDEN ISLAND INN
This tidy 21-room property is near the airport,
shops and Kalapaki Beach, which draws
paddleboarders and kayakers. Beach gear
is complimentary. 808-245-7227; garden
islandinn.com; doubles from $99 per night
WAIMEA PLANTATION COTTAGES
Cottages with an authentic Hawaiian
feel, set on the edge of a coconut grove.
Multi-bedroom houses are also available.
808-338-1625; waimeaplantation.com;
cottages from $179 per night
HANALEI COLONY RESORT
A five-acre oceanfront resort on the north shore,
with 48 two-bedroom units, a spa and the well-
regarded Mediterranean Gourmet restaurant.
Units have kitchens, and a grocery-stocking
service is available. 808-826-6235; hcr.com;
doubles from $255 per night
NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip.
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Published: Spring 2010 Issue
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