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Shopping: Fifth Avenue, Mexican Style
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In search of authentic Mexico on Playa de Carmen's main drag
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BY MARIBETH MELLIN | ILLUSTRATIONS BY DIANE BIGDA
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Back in the '80s, Playa del Carmen (aka Playa) was a sandy hangout for backpackers. Today, this fast-growing Mexican city is the hub for the Riviera Maya, the resort-lined coast south of Cancún. Dirt paths that once led from the highway to the sea have been paved. Chic hotels have replaced budget campgrounds. And the surrounding jungle is gradually giving way to flashy stores and pricey condos. But one constant remains: Everyone eventually winds up on Playa's Fifth Avenue, or Avenida Quinta. Pedestrians rule this car-free street from Avenida Juárez north to Calle 30. Amid the souvenir stands are quirky shops, intriguing folk art galleries and cool fashion boutiques. Read on for a guide to our 10 favorite shopping stops.
1. INART
Several artists create gorgeous silver and gem jewelry for this stylish gallery. Mari Jose Rion combines silver and simple clay beads colored with organic extracts from flowers, seeds and leaves; her necklaces deserve a page in the MoMA catalog. Plaza Paseo del Carmen at Avenida 10
2. CASITA DE LA MUSICA
Get into the South of the Border vibe with classic boleros (ballads) recorded by Lola Beltrán and Vicente Fernández. This small shop also carries CDs by the rock band Maná, and by Lila Downs—whose version of "La Llorona," belted out in a cantina during the movie Frida, will touch your heart. Avenida 5, between Avenida Juárez and Calle 2
3. AMBAR MEXICANO
Pieces of rare Mexican amber (some with fossilized insects suspended within) glow in silver and gold settings at this family-run jewelers. You might be impressed by the chunky yellow and orange pendants hanging outside—but wait till you see the real treasures tucked behind glass inside the shop. Avenida 5, between Calles 4 and 6
4. PLATAFORMAS
Forget every pink flamingo you've ever seen. The perky birds at the Hernández family's gallery are made with thin leather strips arranged atop papier-mâché figurines. They bounce and won't break—even in checked luggage. The flocks of parrots flying in mobiles above the door are a mesmerizing sight. Calle 2, between Avenida 5 and the beach
5. D'BEATRIZ BOUTIQUE
Stay cool and stylish in Playa's tropical temps with Beatriz Ustiyuastegui's loose skirts, pants, halter tops and shirts made from lightweight cotton voile. The shop's amber and turquoise jewelry will complete your look. Calle 4, between Avenida 5 and the beach
6. CARACOL
The whimsical wooden dragons and frogs, clay arboles de vida (trees of life) and Oaxacan rebozos (shawls) in this two-story folk art gallery—all made by hand in Mexico—put Avenida Quinta's tacky souvenir shops to shame. Avenida 5, between Calles 6 and 8
7. BOTANICUS
Sweet-smelling honey lotions and lavender candles refresh your senses and your luggage (tuck a bar of coconut soap in with your clothes). The organic insect repellent, citronella incense and aloe vera gel might all come in handy during your stay. Calle 10, between Avenidas 5 and 10
8. ROSALIA
Women from Chiapas wearing colorful indigenous garb arrange woolen owls and cats outside this shop. The cavernous interior is filled with handmade blankets, jackets, purses and huipiles (long blouses) embroidered with designs from local Indian groups. Avenida 5, between Calles 12 and 14
9. CASA TEQUILA
A bottle of rare Tres Cuatro y Cinco, a blend of three tequilas, will set you back $400 at this modest tequilería. One-shot samplers of various brands go for $5. Some handpainted or handblown bottles are more valuable than the tequila inside; they make great keepsakes. Avenida 5, between Calles 14 and 16
10. AH CACAO
Indulge in a melt-in-your-mouth brownie and bracing espresso while you gather chocolate discs and wooden molinillos (whisks) for making frothy Mexican hot chocolate back home. Cacao soap and body cream, vanilla beans and ground coffee—who wouldn't appreciate such fragrant souvenirs? Avenida 5, at Avenida Constituyentes
EAT
Start the day at Las Mañanitas
(Av. 5 between Calles 4 and 6),
with huevos mexicano (scrambled
eggs with onion, tomato and chilies)
and freshly squeezed OJ.
At lunchtime, try the yucatecan
cochinita pibil (marinated pork)
at Ajua! (Calle 4, between Avs. 5
and 10).
Sunset calls for icy margaritas
under a beach umbrella at Kool
(Calle 28, between Av. 1 and
the beach).
STAY
RCI-AFFILIATED RESORTS IN
AND AROUND PLAYA DEL
CARMEN INCLUDE:
BLUEBAY GRAND ESMERALDA,
Playa del Carmen
GRAND VELAS ALL SUITES &
SPA RESORT, Playa del Carmen
HOTEL Y VILLAS SOLARIS
CANCUN, Cancún
MOON PALACE, Cancún
For more information,
visit RCI.com or call
Weeks: 800-338-7777
Points: 877-968-7476
NON-RCI-AFFILIATED
RESORTS:
DESEO HOTEL + LOUNGE
Av. 5 at Calle 12;
011-52-984-879-3620;
hoteldeseo.com; doubles from $178
HACIENDA PARADISE
Av. 10 between Calles 20 and 22;
011-52-984-873-1397;
haciendaparadise.com; doubles
from $79
HOTEL LUNATA
Av. 5 between Calles 6 and 8;
011-52-984-873-0884;
lunata.com; doubles from $125
LA TORTUGA HOTEL & SPA
Av. 10 at Calle 14;
011-52-984-873-1484;
hotellatortuga.com; doubles
from $160
BANYAN TREE MAYAKOBA
Hwy. 307 Km. 298;
011-52-984-877-3688;
banyantree.com; doubles
from $524
ROSEWOOD MAYAKOBA
Hwy. 307 Km. 298;
011-52-984-875-8000;
rosewoodmayakoba.com;
doubles from $475
NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip.
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Published: Nov/Dec 2009 Issue
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