In the 1990s, Ireland's economic boom helped turn this provincial hamlet into a cosmopolitan city as vibrant as other European capitals—and as expensive. Now that the Celtic Tiger has lost some of its roar, Dublin is affordable again, thanks to cheap flights and great hotel deals and restaurant specials. But it still combines Euro chic with traditional Irish friendliness. And the chief attractions of this lovely little city—parks, pubs and museums—are largely free. So is the city's oldest and most cherished offering: craic. That's Gaelic for a good ol' time.
PUBS
In Ireland, the pub functions as the communal living room, a place to sit and read the newspaper, listen to live music, chat with friends and—oh right—have a drink. Guinness is the national pastime. A pint of the black stuff will run you around $6.50.* (Bartenders don't expect a tip.) But there's no need to drink to enjoy pub life. You can order a lemonade and a packet of crisps (that's 7-Up and potato chips to us Yanks), sit back and soak it in.
The Dublin Literary Pub Crawl is a good way to start your visit. This inexpensive, long-running tour is led by professional actors who guide their merry band from bar to bar while performing scenes from the plays of Beckett and the novels of Joyce. You get a little history, some great stories and a lot of laughs as you share a few pints in the city's classic watering holes (dublinpubcrawl.com; $17). Be warned: Most of the performances are outdoors, so bring an umbrella.
The Irish have the gift of the gab and pubs are where to hear it. You're not likely to find Dubliners in the carnival-like Temple Bar area. Instead, try the Stag's Head (1 Dame Ct.), near the gates of Trinity College. This snug Victorian pub, adorned with stained glass and images of deer, was supposedly a favorite of Joyce's. Then stop by the festive Long Hall (51 S. Great George's St.), an antique bar with rich red ceilings, filigreed mirrors and muskets on the walls.
The pub experience, of course, isn't complete without a bit of traditional Irish music, or "trad." Hear some at O'Donoghue's (15 Merrion Row, just east of St. Stephen's Green), a pub where the pioneering trad band The Dubliners began. Every night local musicians squeeze into the front and belt out classics like "Molly Malone" and "Danny Boy."
MUSEUMS
Dublin's literary history comes alive in its museums, thanks to their amazing illuminated manuscripts and portraits of poets. If you're short on time, skip the expensive and crowded Book of Kells in Trinity College and head to the incredible free collection at the Chester Beatty Library, on the grounds of Dublin Castle. Beatty, a bibliophile and avid collector, assembled not only ancient religious texts—splendid colorful Korans and some of the earliest Gospel papyri in the world—but also beautiful Indian miniatures and Greek bronzes.
Across from Merrion Square are two more free museums. One of them, the National Gallery, holds a variety of European artworks, including paintings by Caravaggio and Vermeer, as well as an extensive Irish collection.
Around the corner is the National Museum of Archeology (Kildare St.), a gorgeous Victorian neoclassical building. Its exhibits explain Irish history from ancient times through the Vikings and Middle Ages.
The other museum district is in west Dublin, about a 15-minute bus ride ($1.50) from O'Connell Street. It's worth the trip. Visit the Kilmainham Gaol (Inchicore Rd.; $9 tour) to learn about the struggle for Irish independence. Several rebels in the Easter 1916 uprising were executed in this 220-year-old prison. The experience of walking into a cold, tiny cell and closing the door could haunt you for days.
Across the road is the Irish Museum of Modern Art, in the refurbished Royal Hospital. The free collection of modern art is worth a look, but the real show is the 1684 building and its beautiful grounds, with manicured lawns and towering hedgerows in a formal garden. You'll feel as if you've left modern Dublin and traveled deep into the historic Emerald Isle.
PARKS
The museum's gardens aren't the only green stretches in Dublin. Like pubs, parks and public squares abound, each with its own character. St. Stephen's Green, with swans and strolling people, is the place to see and be seen. Just south is the quieter Iveagh Gardens, with rows of headless classical statues and tucked-away nooks that are ideal for a bit of quiet contemplation.
To the northeast is perhaps the greenest park of all, Merrion Square. Note the antique streetlamps along the little paths and the delightful Oscar Wilde memorial, which shows the playwright sprawled on a rock in mid-smirk. Emerge from the park on the northwest side to see a row of neat Georgian buildings, ornamented by typically colorful Dublin doors.
DINING
Don't fill up on your Irish breakfast, because lunch is when many of the city's most fashionable restaurants offer great deals. The Michelin-starred L'Ecrivain (109a Lower Baggot St.; 011-353-1-661-1919) offers an amazing $34 three-course lunch, with wines for less than $7 a glass. Chef Derry Clarke puts a French twist on Irish cuisine, such as pork-belly confit with carrot purée and black pudding.
A crop of hip restaurants using fresh local ingredients has recently sprung up in Dublin as well. Among the best is L'Gueuleton (1 Fade St.; 011-353-1-675-3708), a chic, casual spot (exposed brick walls and open kitchen) that draws big crowds for dinner. It's quieter at lunch, when a daily plat du jour with a glass of wine is only $22. The dishes are well composed and ample, and the sides are inventive.
With all of Dublin's lovely parks, you might want to pack a picnic. On Saturday, the Temple Bar Food Market is the place to browse for Irish cheeses like Cashel Blue and Gubbeen. Even if you're not buying, this aromatic market makes for a pleasant stroll.
The rest of the week, get your picnic fixings at the gourmet market Fallon & Byrne (11–17 Exchequer St.). The downstairs wine bar lets you bring your purchases—fruit, cheese, maybe even a club sandwich loaded with Irish bacon. Select a bottle from the shelves and they'll open it at your table. (On Mondays, the corkage fee drops to one euro.)
SHOPPING
Just around the corner is a great gift shop: Avoca (11–13 Suffolk St.), loaded with everything from cookbooks to contemporary wool scarves (around $40) from the famous Avoca mill in County Wicklow.
If you're looking for more traditional Irish gifts, head down Nassau Street by Trinity College to find a host of souvenir shops. Check out the Irish crafts at the Kilkenny Shop (6 Nassau St.)—you might be inspired to buy a thick wool sweater. While autumn is a lovely time to visit Ireland, whenever you go you're likely to experience all four seasons in a single day.
STAY
Hotels refurbished in the boom years are now priced for leaner times. The Brooks (brookshotel.ie) is sleek and affordable, while the Morrison (morrisonhotel.ie) is a celeb-friendly spot on the River Liffey. Dublin's many guesthouses offer an intimate experience for less. Bentleys (brownesdublin.com) lets you stay overnight in an elegant townhouse. For quiet, the Aberdeen Lodge (halpinsprivatehotels.com) is in a leafy suburb reached by a short train ride.
VALUE
Dublin is more affordable than ever, but the Irish capital isn't alone. Mexico is a bargain, thanks to favorable exchange rates, reduced airfares and rock-bottom rates at all-inclusive resorts. The same applies to many Caribbean islands, like the Dominican Republic. In idyllic Fiji, the U.S. dollar goes 42% further than it did in June 2008. And once-pricey Iceland? How does 60 percent off sound?
*All prices have been converted into U.S. dollars.
NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip.
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