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Landmarks: 10 Classic Bars
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Belly up to some of our nation's oldest and quirkiest watering holes
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BY MARTIN MULKEEN
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| Cocktails at Bemelmans in New York City; one of the bars at Brewer's Art, in Baltimore. |
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We love our hometown taverns where everybody knows our name. But getting out of town is a welcome opportunity to try some new watering holes on for size. Here are 10 of our nation’s oldest, quirkiest and most classic bars, from speakeasies and dusty gold rush haunts to art deco shrines and cavernous brewpubs. Cheers!
1. BEMELMANS
New York, NY
The white-jacketed waiters, leather banquettes, black granite bar, gold-leaf-covered ceiling and live piano music make this the quintessential art deco martini bar. Ludwig Bemelmans, who wrote and illustrated the Madeline children’s books, completed its stunning murals in 1947, in exchange for 18 free months at the adjoining Carlyle hotel. They’re the only commission of his still visible to the public—at least, those who pony up the cover charge and $20 per cocktail. 35 E. 76th St.; 212-744-1600
2. THE ALASKAN HOTEL & BAR
Juneau, AK
Established in 1913 when Juneau was a frontier mining camp, the Victorian–style Alaskan Hotel became a gold rush brothel, and the ghosts of former employees may still lurk on the premises. It endured two excruciating extra years of Prohibition, which began in 1918 under Alaska’s “Bone Dry” law before the nation’s Volstead Act of 1920. Now, bearded outdoor types and clean-cut professionals make up for lost time over pints in Juneau’s oldest haunt. 167 S. Franklin St.; 907-586-1000
3. FROLIC ROOM
Los Angeles, CA
This classic bar at Hollywood and Vine, next door to the Pantages Theatre, was once a favorite of the poet (and famous souse) Charles Bukowski. It’s easy to see why: This is where old Hollywood glamour meets contemporary L.A. dive-bar grunge, with an Al Hirschfeld mural alongside video games, free popcorn and cheap, stiff drinks. Come to think of it, former regulars like Orson Welles and Humphrey Bogart would probably still dig it, too. 6245 Hollywood Blvd.; 323-462-5890
4. TUJAGUE'S
New Orleans, LA
This French Quarter classic is more than 150 years old, but thanks to some restoration and meticulous upkeep, Tujague’s doesn’t look a day over 30. Order a Sazerac or absinthe frappé at the cypress bar (shipped over from France in 1856), but don’t expect to sit down—there are no stools. If you really want to take a load off, find a table in the restaurant and try the six-course meal they’re serving that night. You’ve got little choice in the menu, but from gumbo to bread pudding, it’s all good. 823 Decatur St.; 504-525-8676
5. GREASEWOOD FLAT
Scottsdale, AZ
Amid a fog of dust and barbecue smoke, there’s seating for 1,000 at Reata Pass, an old stagecoach stop along a rocky trail wandering northeast from Phoenix towards Fort McDowell. These days, there are more toddlers than quick-draw artists around the outdoor picnic tables, but the bar, a 120-year-old bunkhouse with ceilings and walls lined with thousands of dollar bills, is still home to real-life cowboys and bikers. Live music under a desert sky teeming with stars is a great equalizer. 27375 N. Alma School Pkwy.; 480-585-9430
6. THE GREEN JAZZ CLUB
Chicago, IL
A speakeasy once owned in part by Al Capone’s henchman “Machine Gun” Jack McGurn, this epicenter of Chicago jazz is still jumping with Chicagoans and tourists alike, who flock here for strong martinis and strong sets from contemporary virtuosos such as Kurt Elling and Ron Perrillo. The greats still come here too, but it’s not all classics: You’re just as likely to walk into the middle of a poetry slam, or the latest and greatest Japanese three-piece you’ve never heard of. 4802 N. Broadway Ave.; 773-878-5552
7. BREWER'S ART
Baltimore, MD
This eclectic brewpub, with more than 100 types of beer, is at the center of a neighborhood on the rebound—Mt. Vernon. The mansion space accommodates a clientele as diverse as the area’s limestone and brownstone façades. Upstairs, armchairs and a huge chandelier suggest a grandmother’s Art Nouveau living room, while the first floor is darker, more cavernous and filled with a younger—and tipsier—art school crowd. 1106 N. Charles St.; 410-547-6925
8. LA MARIANA SAILING CLUB
Honolulu, HI
One of the last surviving bars of Waikiki’s once-thriving tiki culture, La Mariana has become a repository of artifacts from tiki titans no longer with us. Inside, the Polynesian patchwork includes tikis from Kon-Tiki at the Sheraton-Waikiki, lamps from Trader Vic’s and furniture from Don the Beachcomber. Luckily, these treasures are safely hidden—finding this piano bar and the 80-foot boat slip attached to it on Ke’ehi Lagoon is no easy feat. 50 Sand Island Access Rd.; 808-848-2800
9. THE CRUISE ROOM
Denver, CO
Opening the day Prohibition was repealed in 1933, the Oxford Hotel’s Cruise Room was downtown Denver’s first bar. It takes its status seriously—which is apparent in the potent martinis and the precision of its period décor. It’s easy to lose yourself in the art deco furnishings and wall murals depicting toasts given around the world. Out-of-towners should keep their wits about them—this place is, after all, a mile high. 1600 17th St.; 303-825-1107
10. TOSCA CAFÉ
San Francisco, CA
Often called “the casting couch” because so many movies have been filmed here, the 90-year-old Tosca still has its original furnishings, including red vinyl booths, two antique espresso machines and a vintage vinyl jukebox. Stop in after a trip to Beat Generation landmark City Lights bookstore across the street, put on some Sinatra and order the “house cappuccino,” a combination of Ghirardelli chocolate, steamed milk and a shot of brandy. 242 Columbus Ave.; 415-986-9651
NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip.
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Published: Winter 2010-2011
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Photos: Jennifer Arnow; Brewer’s Art
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