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On Location: Toronto
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Canada’s largest city is home to state-of-the-art museums, fine dining, art galleries, an island amusement park and a Bach-inspired garden
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BY HILARY DAVIDSON
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Toronto’s Harbourfront; the Gardiner Museum of Ceramic Art; pasta nouveau at the Royal Ontario Museum's C5.
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Toronto-born Davidson revisits her hometown frequently—and each time, it looks a little different. She blames the city’s top museums for the renovation obsession.
MUSEUM MADNESS
First the Royal Ontario Museum succumbed to the siren song of rejuvenation and reinvention. Then the Art Gallery of Ontario followed its lead. Neither settled for a nip and tuck: They went for top-to-bottom makeovers by celebrity architects. The Royal Ontario Museum (100 Queen’s Pk.; 416-586-8000; rom.on.ca; $22) chose Daniel Libeskind, and the result—a five-story crystal looming over the original building—has been controversial. While the crystal reminds me of Superman’s Fortress of Solitude, it’s worth a visit for its dinosaur exhibits. And don’t miss the museum’s other collections: precious gems, Chinese temple art and Southeast Asian sculpture.
At the Art Gallery of Ontario (317 Dundas St. W.; 416-979-6648; ago.net; $18), the renovating architect was Toronto native Frank Gehry, mastermind of the Guggenheim Bilbao. Here, his silver Zeppelin-like exterior and swirling interior staircase are striking, and viewing space has been dramatically increased. The reopening unveiled the new Thomson collection, a bequest from a Toronto billionaire that includes medieval art and masterworks by the likes of Peter Paul Rubens. And both museums have excellent new restaurants: C5 at the ROM and FRANK at the AGO.
The lust for renovation has trickled down to smaller museums like the Gardiner Museum of Ceramic Art (111 Queen’s Pk.; 416-586-8080; gardinermuseum.on.ca; $12). While its 18th-century porcelain, Italian commedia dell'arte figures and pre-Columbian Olmec and Maya works aren’t normally my thing, I love the Gardiner’s airy design. I also love the museum shop’s jewelry, handbags, vases and other pieces crafted by local and international artists. (It’s my secret source for great gifts, but don’t tell anyone.)
ON THE WATERFRONT
One of my favorite Toronto escapes is taking a ferry to the city’s islands on Lake Ontario. In less than 10 minutes, you’re transported to a different world where you can rent bikes and explore the trails, play tennis, feed the ducks, sail a boat or simply enjoy the gardens. Centre Island’s traditional amusement park, Centreville, is beloved by young children. Ferries leave from the foot of Bay Street and cost $6.50 round-trip.
Back on dry land, walk west from the ferry dock to visit the 100-acre Harbourfront development. Among its attractions are shops, performance spaces, an art gallery, artists’ studios (where you can watch pottery-makers and glass-blowers) and artist-designed gardens. Warm weather brings live music, author readings and festivals. At the western end is one of the loveliest spots my hometown has to offer: the Toronto Music Garden. Designed by Yo-Yo Ma and Julie Moir Messervy, it “invokes” Bach’s First Suite for Unaccompanied Cello via formal flowerbeds, wildflower fields and a forest grove.
NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip.
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Published: April 1, 2010
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PHOTOS: OTMP; Shai Gill; Margaret Mulligan/Royal Ontario Museum
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