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On Location: Rafting Without Roughing It on an Oregon River
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White water is just part of the appeal of a trip on the Rogue
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BY TINA LASSEN
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| A Rogue River canyon; a family outing with Rogue Wilderness Adventures. |
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When we assigned Oregon-based writer Tina Lassen to write a story on rafting her home state’s rivers, she quickly said yes. The tougher decision was figuring out where to go.
THE RIVER OF CHOICE
Let’s just say natural beauty is not in short supply in Oregon. I could immediately tick off 10 rivers that would deliver on a gorgeous rafting trip. So I enlisted the advice of a handful of friends who had been river guides around the Pacific Northwest. Their responses were all the same: the Wild and Scenic Rogue. They praised the pristine beauty of its deep canyon, clear waters and undeveloped shores. They assured me that its rapids would be exhilarating but not death-defying. (Most are rated middle-of-the-road Class III, with a few attention-getting Class IVs.) When I found out that Rogue River Raft Trips offers a lodge-to-lodge trip—with overnights in rustic lodges along the river, rather than in tents—the promise of hot showers sealed the deal (800-826-1963; rogueriverraft.com; two-day lodge trips from $545 per person).
LODGE LIFE
Not only are the lodges a welcome way to ward off evening chill, they’re also an integral part of the Rogue’s river culture. While staying at the Black Bar Lodge, I paged through scrapbooks that chronicled generations of tough, resourceful folk living out here in the wilderness (541-479-6507; blackbarlodge.net; doubles from $120 per person).
Wedged deep in a forested canyon, Black Bar still feels mighty wild. Deer wandered by to nibble watermelon rinds right from my hand. I had the chance to explore the lone “road,” a primitive two-track switchback up the canyon wall. After hiking for more than an hour, I was still miles from any sign of civilization: no phone lines, no cell towers, no electrical wires. A gasoline generator provides the lodge’s only power, running the lights from dusk until 10 p.m. on the dot.
Outside after dinner, river guide and working actor John Listner pulled out a guitar to demonstrate yet another of his talents. As we warbled along to "Up on Cripple Creek" and "Me and Bobby McGee," a smear of stars slowly replaced the sliver of fading blue high above. I could hear both wafting guitar strains and the distant wail of coyotes when I strolled to my cabin. By the time the generator kicked off, I was already fast asleep.
BEYOND RAFTING
Many companies offer creative twists on the classic river trip, combining rafting with other interests. Want to raft and camp with your pup? Sign on for Rogue Wilderness Adventures’ three-day “Paddles and Paws” trip (800-336-1647; wildrogue.com; $819 per person, dogs free). Want to tap your feet to a little bluegrass? Consider ECHO River Trips' four-day “Bluegrass & Whitewater,” during which Grammy-nominated musicians entertain at camp each evening (800-652-3246; echotrips.com; $1,045 per person). On other Rogue excursions, you’ll raft with winemakers, brewmasters and yoga instructors (but no, not all on the same trip).
And you can hardly go wrong with a combination rafting and fishing adventure. The Rogue, after all, has long been famous for its runs of salmon and steelhead (a tenacious—and delicious—ocean-going rainbow trout). At Morrison’s Rogue River Lodge, a “Splash and Cast” package includes a day of guided rafting, a day of guided fishing, two nights’ lodging and all meals (800-826-1963; morrisonslodge.com; $675 per person). Morrison’s also offers a raft-supported four-night hiking trip along the 40-mile Rogue River National Recreation Trail. You hike with only a daypack while guides set up lunches along the way, haul your food and clothes from lodge to lodge by raft, and serve as your sag wagon if you want to take a break and hitch a ride ($950 per person, including all meals, lodging and transportation).
NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip.
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Published: February 8, 2011
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Photos: Rogue River Raft Trips/Rafting the Rogue River; Jak Wonderly/Rogue Wilderness Adventures
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