Thoroughly Modern
After a lifetime in New York, I recently relocated to Los Angeles. I already knew all about the Beach Boys and surf movies, but I had little knowledge of California’s mythic deserts. So when my fiancée, Lina, and I were wondering where to go for a quiet escape from Hollywood, Palm Springs didn’t exactly leap to mind. How could reclining far from the ocean in 100-degree temperatures be fun? Still, trusted friends had been singing the region’s praises, so we decided to find out for ourselves. Maybe we wouldn’t get the appeal of the desert, but we could explore Palm Springs’ futuristic architecture—which, we were told, had influenced L.A.’s striking mid-century buildings. At least we’d be doing something cultural.

Into the Orbit
After some research, I booked us a room at the Orbit In. It’s not just any motel; it’s a design-lover’s sanctuary. Built in 1957 by architect Herb Burns and restored by current owner Christy Eugenis, the Orbit has nine rooms surrounding a courtyard with a saline pool. The outdoor furniture would make the Design Within Reach folks drool; inside is a showcase of pieces by such luminaries as Saarinen, Nelson, Noguchi and Bertoia. We entered the sleek lobby to hear Tony Bennett’s voice floating from a stereo, and the rhythmic sound of saketinis being shaken at the boomerang-shaped bar. After unpacking in our room, I took an outdoor shower—very liberating—while Lina surveyed the landscape from an Eames chair. “I love not having anything to do but take this all in,” she said.
 
Later we explored the neighborhood on cruiser bikes provided by the Orbit, along with a map of important houses. We found Elvis’s platter-like honeymoon house, designed by Robert Alexander in the early 1960s, as well as John Lautner’s tent-like Elrod house, which appeared in Diamonds Are Forever. Right behind the Orbit, a pair of Albert Frey homes are carved into the craggy hills of Mount San Jacinto.
 
Retro Chic
During our stay we left our deliciously retro home base to relax in spas and natural hot springs; dine at new comfort-food-and-wine hotspots like Zin American Bistro and Copley’s on Palm Canyon (set in a house once owned by Cary Grant); and hike through cool forests. Along the way, we met as many creative young professionals as we did lively 70-year-olds. But we couldn’t wait to return to the Orbit, where we’d sip stiff drinks and lie by the pool for long evenings of dreamy conversation. On that first visit, Palm Springs’ leisurely style stole our hearts and minds. Now we understood why people flock to this arid valley. Like other new fans of every generation, we would return.