USA: Southwest Las Vegas, NV
On Location: Notes from Vegas
Our roving editor in chief strikes out in search of news, shopping finds, good bites and how to cure a hangover, Vegas-style
BY BARBARA PECK
The view from Cloud Nine, a helium balloon just south of the Strip; surf and turf burger at Mandalay Bay's Burger Bar.
Despite the recession, Vegas is still teeming with people who have come to gamble, eat, sightsee, people-watch . . . and shop. Here are some notes from a five-day visit.

Follow That Dream
Things grow fast in Las Vegas. I was in town shortly before the December 2009 opening of Crystals, the new shopping mall at CityCenter, and was lucky enough to score a hardhat tour of the construction site as it neared completion. (Yes, I did wear a hardhat, and also a stylish reflective vest.) As an architect’s daughter, I’ve always considered this kind of access to be a special privilege—and I love the smell of sawdust. My guide was Farid Matraki, the vice president and general manager of Crystals, who recited the names of the incoming high-end retailers as he escorted me around. I gawked at the terrazzo floors and a grand staircase inlaid with fuchsia-colored agate, designed to glow when backlit by interior lighting. Next time I’m in Vegas, I want to see those stairs with the lights switched on, as well as some other cool Crystals installations I only heard about—like a vest-pocket park with a massive Henry Moore sculpture (still under wraps when I was there), and a Belgian-style “flower carpet” whose colors will change with the seasons, or sometimes just to match the scarves in the Hermès window opposite. And maybe I’ll catch the new Elvis show that Cirque du Soleil has created for the Aria Theater at CityCenter. Elvis and Vegas—what took them so long? (“Viva Elvis” opened February 19.)

New Moon
One evening, I glanced out the window of my room at the Luxor hotel and did a double take when I saw what looked like a giant, ghostly moon in the darkened sky. Sure, everything’s huge in Vegas, but how did the moon get so big? It took me a few minutes to realize that the looming orb was the town’s newest attraction, Cloud Nine, billed as the world’s largest helium balloon. It remains tethered to its site, just south of the Strip, while passengers (up to 30 at a time) float up 500 feet in the air for panoramic views. And since this is Vegas, the view after dark is even better than in daytime. (cloud9vegas.com; adults $22.50, children from $17.50)

Bar Hopping
As I jumped into a cab for Town Square, a new mall just south of the Strip, the dispatcher at the Luxor remarked, “Lotta good restaurants at Town Square. Nothing like an afternoon at the Blue Martini Lounge!” While I didn’t make it to that bar (it was 11 a.m., after all), I did check out a few others. At Fashion Show mall, I stopped by an Oxygen Bar to breathe in some pure oxygen, which they claim can help treat headache, jet lag, fatigue and hangover. First the customer selects a scent to mix with the oxygen (lavender/rosemary; grapefruit/lemongrass/orange; or peppermint/eucalyptus), then an “oxygen bartender” massages your shoulders as you inhale ($22 for 20 minutes). I also hit the Burger Bar at the Mandalay Bay for an inexpensive dinner. While French chef Hubert Keller devised the menu, you get to build your own burger, choosing the patty (beef, lamb, buffalo, turkey, vegetarian), bun (sesame, whole-wheat, onion, ciabatta) and toppings, which range from cole slaw, chili and caramelized onions to foie gras and black truffles. (702-632-9364; burgers for two from $20)
 

NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip.


Published: February 1, 2010  
Photos: Cloud Nine; MGM Mirage
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