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On Location: Mazatlán
Our photographer finds more than beaches and margaritas on this stretch of Mexico's Pacific Coast
WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY GREGORY ALLEN
A triple-scoop in the historic center; Olas Altas beach in Old Mazatlan; an Allen Ginsberg poem posted near Plazuela Machado.

Allen, a photographer based in Mexico City, knows Mexico well but had never been to Mazatlán. Expecting a big tourist-filled city, he was thrilled to discover a pretty coastal town with a rich history, amazing food and generous, warm people.

Riding in Style
As soon as I arrived, I dropped my bags at my hotel and set out to explore. I intended to hail a taxi, but an open-air cab called a pulmonia stopped to pick me up. These golf cart-like contraptions are the perfect way to get to know the town. Mine had gold streamers sprouting from the sides and an elaborately decorated interior, with bright red velvet and green and pink vinyl. After passing through the historic center, with its stately 19th-century architecture, we headed to the boardwalk, or malecón, where I got out to enjoy the warm afternoon sea breeze. It felt like a festival—street musicians, ice cream vendors, arts and crafts booths, children playing, couples walking hand-in-hand. Gradually, the boardwalk filled with even more people waiting for the sunset—which did not disappoint.

Walk This Way
Mazatlán’s small historic center is a fantastic place for strolling. The main plazas are easily accessible, and only a few blocks from the beach. The streets are lined with century-old Spanish Colonial mansions, some restored and freshly painted in pinks, yellows and blues; sidewalks and entranceways are decorated with bright ceramic tiles. As a photographer, I tend to notice details that others might miss, and there’s plenty to see in this incredibly colorful landscape.

Colossal Shrimp 
One of my favorite things to do in a new place is sample the local food. Mazatlán is famous for its seafood, particularly shrimp. That’s the main ingredient in the signature dish called aguachile—a bit like a ceviche, with lots of lemon juice, sliced red onion and just enough spicy red or green chilies to give it a kick. My best memory of eating aguachile in Mazatlán was the one I ordered from a palapa-shaded beachfront café just off the malecón. It was the perfect place to escape from the sun and enjoy the kaleidoscopic view of the sparkling blues and greens of the sea. A photographer’s work is never done . . . well, almost never.

Published: September 2008 
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See Also
Destination: Polishing the Pearl
Sept/Oct 2008 Issue