We sent Knauer, a writer and editor who lives in Springfield, MO, to uncover Branson’s best nontouristy restaurants. While Knauer already knew food, he found that being a food writer required some new skills.

OUR D-DAY STRATEGY
When I was asked to write about the Branson food scene, my wife and I were intrigued. We’re both foodies, and Louise is a terrific cook, but our jobs keep us tethered to computer and cell phone. So we relished the chance to get away from our offices and, as the Italians say, “dine on another man’s lira.” After all, who doesn’t envy food writers, those jaded aesthetes whose job description basically requires them to eat great meals and conjure up synonyms for “tasty”?

Ah, innocent newbies! Since we had to confine our research to weekends, Louise drew up an elaborate plan for our culinary invasion of Branson. She slated five stops for D-Day, our first Saturday, including dinner in the evening. But by stop No. 2, after the hubcap-sized pancakes at Billy Gail’s Café, we realized this wasn’t Operation Overlord—it was Operation Overload. We were stuffed. And there were three more meals on the day’s agenda. Thus we learned the cardinal rule of food reviewing: Stop racing, start pacing and take lots of long walks.

DOWN-HOME HIGH TECH
Branson is a study in contradictions, as those who attend its many top-notch live performances can tell you. While shows like the Baldknobbers Jamboree celebrate the simple life with hillbilly humor and old-fashioned country songs, they do so with elaborate, highly polished stage presentations. The same level of professionalism exists in Branson’s upscale restaurants. As in Las Vegas, the locals understand that a satisfied customer makes for a vocal ambassador. At high-end destinations, we encountered knowledgeable and accomplished servers, middle-aged pros who knew Branson’s dining scene, knew their restaurant’s history, knew the kitchen’s strong points and knew how to steer us toward the best menu choices. At casual spots like Billy Gail’s Café and Papouli’s, a different but equally welcome pattern became apparent: The proprietors were very much a presence in the dining room, greeting old customers by name and making newcomers feel at home.

FARE FOR HARD TIMES
While Mel’s Hard Luck Diner is smack-dab in the middle of Branson’s Highway 76 strip, it’s pitched to the tourist trade, so it didn’t exactly fit our assignment. But we enjoyed our quick lunch at Mel’s (2800 W. 76 Country Blvd.; 417-332-0150), thanks to the sincerity and energy of the servers/wannabe stars. The decor is ’50s kitsch, and the “hard times” theme is played out in wall displays where country-music stars tell tales of their hardscrabble youth. (Charley Pride, for instance, says he was so poor he pulled up weeds and ate the roots.) The wait staff, most of whom aspire to musical careers, play out the roles of those who hope to escape the hard times. Every 10 minutes or so a waiter flips on some music and belts out a song. It’s low-key fun, and some of the kids are good enough to have made the “Hollywood cut” on American Idol. With its free helping of entertainment, Mel’s offers a refreshing spin on the classic diner.

NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip.