If Las Vegas has a soul, it’s treading a fine line between the authentic and the phony. Sure, that Statue of Liberty is kitschy, but her stoic expression still works its magic. It’s just that now she seems to be saying, “Is this not a strange and magnificent country—yes, you, over there, dazed by the sight of dancing fountains in the desert?”
Vegas restaurants are also a surreal blend of the real and the illusory. You’ll find sumptuous all-you-can-eat buffets, as well as today’s big-name chefs and faded culinary stars from decades past. But it’s hard to locate a bargain meal, and it’s easy to feel ripped off after an expensive dinner at the wrong place. In these pages, however, are 10 don’t-miss restaurants, on the Strip and off, that are delivering some of the most passionate and exciting cooking in America today.
Prices throughout this article cover a three-course meal for two, not including drinks, tax or tip.
ON THE STRIP
1. Bouchon Venetian; 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 702-414-6200
At his other restaurants (Per Se in New York, French Laundry in Napa), Thomas Keller may be the best—and most controlling—chef in the country. But he lets his hair down at Bouchon, a dead ringer for a Parisian bistro. The room, large and at times noisy, is detailed brilliantly with mosaic floors, antique light fixtures and soaring Palladian windows. The food is classic bistro fare: oysters, onion soup, roast chicken on lentils and a salmon rillette that arrives in a little glass jar. As at any good bistro, the wine list is amiable and varied and the bread fresh from the oven. Bouchon’s breakfast—fresh beignets, or brioche with custard and strawberries—may be the best in town. A good thing, when you consider the price. Breakfast for two, $50; dinner for two, $100
2. Delmonico Steakhouse Venetian; 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 702-414-3737
This unusually mellow room puts chef Emeril Lagasse’s simple, bright dishes in high relief. Recommended dishes include a pitch-perfect Caesar salad and a bone-in rib-eye steak done with a light creole seasoning. The steak tartare is so fresh it feels like custard in the mouth. Nothing gets overlooked here, from the creamed spinach, simultaneously chunky and smooth, to the mashed potatoes with flavorful flecks of skin. Oh, and the béarnaise sauce—sublime. Dinner for two, $100
3. L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon MGM Grand Las Vegas; 3799 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 702-891-7358
The bar stools in this sleek bistro offer views of the busy kitchen, where a team of extremely focused chefs slice, sauté and plate up some daring but delicious food. Things start intensely with an amuse-bouche of foie gras delivered in a shot glass topped with an ethereal Parmesan foam. That’s followed by silky calf sweetbreads with a sprig of fresh laurel. The meal closes strong with a Chartreuse-infused soufflé that might induce an out-of-body experience. The fire-engine-red and black room is polished without being stuffy. Bring a date—the setting is undeniably sophisticated and the food so artful and so superb you’ll both acquire an alluring glow. Dinner for two, $200
4. Alex Wynn Las Vegas; 3131 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 702-770-9966
If Scarlett O’Hara came to Vegas, she’d want to eat here. You might feel a little Scarlett—or Rhett—yourself as you descend the sweeping staircase. Murano glass chandeliers hover above the lavish room. Waitstaff are at the ready with a purse chair, so don’t even think of dropping that clutch on the floor. To go with the dark, syrupy glamour, chef Alessandro (Alex) Stratta offers an old-line French meal that few others today can pull off. Foie gras is folded into breast of squab, yellowtail gets bathed in champagne and wrapped around Osetra caviar, and the beef is Wagyu, of course. Yes, you will need three gym days to work it off, but Alex makes it worth every costly calorie. No children under five . . . and jackets preferred. Closed Mon.–Wed.; dinner for two, $290
5. Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare Wynn Las Vegas; 3131 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 702-770-9966
Chef Paul Bartolotta swears he knows the name and boat of every Italian fisherman who supplies his seafood. That knowledge explains how one of the most interesting delicacies on his menu—aquadelle, tiny fish that are fried and eaten whole, as addictive as potato chips—made its way here to the middle of the Nevada desert. The turbot is grilled with nothing more than olive oil and a pinch of good salt. But this exuberant, high-ceilinged seafood trattoria is no one-trick pony: Handmade ravioli stuffed with ricotta and sprinkled with Parmesan offer a delicate bit of heaven. You can have a nice steak, but why stray from the sea when its bounty is treated with such reverence? Dinner for two, $180
6. Petrossian Bar Bellagio; 3600 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 702-693-7111
Like the over-entitled beautiful girl in high school, Petrossian may be grating, but you do love being near her. After midnight, you can people-watch while sipping chilled vodka made from potato, grain or grape (deliciously sweet). Win big? You’ll need it to order the namesake caviar. Come earlier for afternoon tea, when you can pop finger sandwiches of smoked salmon and peppered English cucumber in between sips of creamy vanilla rooibos tea. Drinks average $12; afternoon tea for two, served 2–5 p.m., $70
7. Noodle Shop Mandalay Bay; 3950 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 702-632-4934
Sometimes you want it simple and tasty, and this spare little Asian place is both. Although the Noodle Shop is just off Mandalay Bay’s casino floor, its wheat-colored walls and graceful line of bamboo plants make you feel as if you’re waiting for a hot rock massage instead of a slice of honey-glazed pork perfumed by lemongrass. Gamblers fortify themselves with huge bowls of steaming noodles in a rich broth topped with roast duck, or fresh green beans with tiny dried shrimp in XO sauce. Order away—the leftovers will taste even better. Dinner for two, $40
OFF THE STRIP
8. Memphis Championship Barbecue 2250 E. Warm Springs Rd.; 702-260-6909
From the jukebox to the wooden bar backed by neon signs, this is a place that says, “Relax, you won’t encounter the unfamiliar here.” The familiar, however, will probably be better than what you’re used to. Those trophies out front aren’t for bowling—they’re for barbecue championships. To understand why this place (and the two other Memphis Championship Barbecues in town) keep winning awards, just taste the earthy pulled-pork sandwich and crisp coleslaw with a vinegar kick. Lunch for two, $35
9. Origin India 4480 Paradise Rd.; 702-734-6342
Hidden in an ordinary shopping mall, this reasonably priced but upscale South Asian newcomer must make the locals ecstatic. The cooking packs a ton of flavor, both intense and delicate. Start with the anarkali papri chat—crisp wafers topped with lightly cooked chickpeas, chunks of potato, fresh yogurt, mint and tamarind sauce. Dinner for two, $40
10. Lotus of Siam 953 E. Sahara Ave.; 702-735-3033
Even those who know L.A.’s Thai town believe that this strip-mall spot serves up the best Thai food in the country. The duck curry is a dream—literally: You’ll dream about it. The bass steamed in ginger is as delicate and thoughtful as a perfect kiss. All of that before you consider the basement’s stock of sweet Rieslings that hold their own against these flavorful dishes. Dinner for two, $40
SHOWTIME
Vegas has become an international city, so it’s no surprise that some of its longest-running stage shows require little if any English. Here are some top choices:
O at the Bellagio
The first aquatic show by the Canadian acrobatic troupe Cirque du Soleil is a doozy, populated by divers, gymnasts and synchronized swimmers in a 1.5-million-gallon pool. Pure theatricality. (cirquedusoleil.com; 888-488-7111; tickets from $99)
Blue Man Group at the Venetian
This athletic trio of painted mimes has played Vegas for seven years. A 2005 move to custom-designed digs put the audience much closer to the action, which remains odd and hilarious. (800-258-3626; venetian.com; tickets from $65)
Spamalot at the Wynn
A Tony Award–winner adapted from the movie Monty Python and the Holy Grail. The Vegas version opened in March at the Grail Theater, with John O’Hurley (J. Peterman from Seinfeld) as King Arthur. (montypythonsspamalot.com; 888-320-7110; tickets from $49)