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Destination: Unexpected Florida
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These three summer road trips, all starting in Orlando, will take you to lighthouses, freshwater springs, quirky old towns and prime sightings of Florida wildlife
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BY ADAM H. GRAHAM | PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAMELA ASHLEY PASCO
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Standing guard at Castillo de San Marcos; oranges at Eli’s Orange World; a 1940s Oldsmobile at the former home of Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings.
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Visitors arriving at the Orlando airport might think that the entire state is a tropical paradise akin to Maui. But as soon as you exit past the animal-shaped topiary, landscaped monorail and hibiscus-adorned fountains, the real-life, scrubby Florida takes over. While most of the Sunshine State’s visitors make a beeline for the sandy beaches and crowded amusement parks, swaths of central and north Florida go overlooked. A glimpse beyond the interstates, exurbs and strip malls reveals an otherwise bygone Old Florida that encompasses both Spanish and Anglo cultures.
DRIVE 1: ORLANDO TO ST. PETE BEACH
Leaving Orlando on Highway 192, you’ll pass Kissimmee’s big theme parks and the singular Eli’s Orange World, the largest man-made orange in the world, created from fiberglass. The shop inside sells edible souvenirs, like chewy citrus candy, tangerine honey, fresh tangelos and coconut toast spread.
From the Lake Wales Ridge, this drive traverses rolling hills, passing horse ranches, crystal-clear lakes, hidden towns and citrus groves. You’ll see 312-foot Sugarloaf Mountain, the highest point in peninsular Florida. At Winter Garden, get on the Green Mountain Scenic Byway, which begins near the moss-draped avenue known as Sadler Oaks in historic Tildenville on Route 50. Switch to County Road 455 around Lake Apopka to reach the westbound Florida Turnpike.
Homosassa Springs is just one of more than a dozen parks in the Crystal River area. Its well-kept grounds offer an opportunity to see native species in captivity, like the Florida panther, Florida black bear, red wolf and Key deer. There are also several outfitters that offer snorkeling and diving with manatees.
Head 20 miles south on Route 19 to experience Weeki Wachee Springs, whose underwater mermaid show has been drawing visitors, Elvis and Esther Williams among them, since 1947. Then get on Route 589 and drive 78 miles south to St. Petersburg. In recent years St. Pete has transformed itself from a sleepy city into a youthful destination with cool hotel upgrades, a brand new Dalí Museum and the Chihuly Collection. Browse for used books and antiques along Central Avenue (Janet’s Antiques always has some funky finds). New restaurants emphasize Old Florida flavors, while old ones stick to time-honored recipes.
THE DETAILS
The trip from Orlando to St. Petersburg is 107 miles, a drive of less than two hours.
EAT
HUNGRY HARRY'S FAMOUS BAR-B-QUE
Try the peanut-butter pie at this roadside stop. 3116 Land O’ Lakes Blvd., Land O’Lakes; 813-949-8083; lunch for two, $25*
PEG'S CANTINA
Just outside St. Pete, sample local brews and sugarcane shrimp skewers on a deck shaded by Florida palms. 3038 Beach Blvd., Gulfport; 727-328-2720; dinner for two, $35
TED PETERS FAMOUS SMOKED FISH
Updated since it opened 50 years ago, Ted’s dishes up fish smoked over red oak. 1350 Pasadena Ave. S., St. Petersburg; 727-381-7931; dinner for two, $28
EXPLORE
CHIHULY COLLECTION
400 Beach Dr. N.E., St. Petersburg; 727-822-7872; moreanartscenter.org; admission $15
DALI MUSEUM
One Dali Blvd., St. Petersburg; 727-823-3767; thedali.org; admission, $21
ELI'S ORANGE WORLD
5395 W. Irlo Bronson Memorial Hwy., Kissimmee; 800-531-3182; orangeworld192.com
HOMOSASSA SPRINGS
4150 S. Suncoast Blvd., Homosassa; 352-628-5343; floridastateparks.org/homosassasprings
JANET'S ANTIQUES
2545 Central Ave., St. Petersburg; 727-823-5700; janetsantiquesstpete.com
WEEKI WACHEE SPRINGS
6131 Commercial Way, Spring Hill; 352-592-5656; weekiwachee.com
DRIVE 2: ORLANDO TO FANNING SPRINGS
Unlikely as it sounds, Orlando has several historic neighborhoods. Among them are Thornton Park, a leafy grid of 1920s bungalows; the more residential Lake Eola Heights; and tidy Eatonville, one of America’s first all-black settlements and former home of the writer Zora Neale Hurston. These make excellent stopping off points before heading to Mount Dora, 30 miles north on Route 429. Known for its pastel Victorian architecture, Mount Dora is a quaint slice of Florida. Stop in at Renninger’s Antiques Center & Farmers & Flea Market to score a vintage citrus press or pick up a collectible Florida Highwaymen painting by one of the 26 African-American outsider artists who made up this 20th-century movement.
Continue north on Route 19, through the sand pines of Ocala National Forest. Veer west onto Route 40 toward the retro amusement park Silver Springs, famous for its glass-bottomed boats, lighthouse carousel and jungle cruises—a good opportunity to see a gator up close and personal. Keep going north on Route 301 for 35 minutes until you reach Cross Creek, home of Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings Historic State Park. This is where the writer penned the Pulitzer-winning The Yearling and the lesser-known Cross Creek Cookery, with recipes for such Florida Cracker locavore dishes as turtle stew, corn pone and orange icebox cake.
As you progress north, the mood becomes markedly Southern. Drive north on I 75 and then west on Highway 26 to reach the Suwannee River at Fanning Springs, a town on the edge of Dixie County. Once the location of a thriving turpentine business, it’s now known for its tree-lined springs, slow pace of life and Gulf crab and scallops.
THE DETAILS
The trip from Orlando to Fanning Springs is 186 miles, a three-and-a-half-hour drive.
EAT
SUGARBOO'S BAR-B-Q
Find barbecue with citrus flavors in this aqua-colored brick roadhouse. 1305 Grandview St., Mount Dora; 352-735-7675; lunch for two, $10
THE YEARLING
Named after Rawlings’s Pulitzer winner, this retro spot serves up recipes inspired by Cross Creek Cookery. 14531 E. County Rd. 325, Hawthorne; 352-466-3999; dinner for two, $60
EXPLORE
RENNINGER'S ANTIQUES CENTER & FARMERS & FLEA MARKET
20651 Hwy. 441, Mount Dora; 352-383-8393; renningers.com
OCALA NATIONAL FOREST
3199 N.E. Hwy. 315, Silver Springs; 352-236-0288; usda.gov
SILVER SPRINGS
5656 E. Silver Springs Blvd., Silver Springs; 352-236-2121; silversprings.com
MARJORIE KINNAN RAWLINGS HISTORIC STATE PARK
18700 S. County Rd. 325, Cross Creek; 352-466-3672; floridastateparks.org/marjoriekinnanrawlings
DRIVE 3: ORLANDO TO ST. AUGUSTINE
Follow I-4 about 30 miles north of Orlando to Blue Spring State Park. Botanist John Bartram came here in 1766 in search of new orchids and bromeliads on the banks of the St. John’s River, at a time when Florida was briefly a British colony. Today the crystal-clear spring is the winter home of endangered manatees, which come to warm themselves in the 72-degree water. Stroll along the cypress-shaded boardwalks to catch glimpses of gators, wood storks and 156 species of dragonfly and damselfly. Swimming is permitted after March 1, so bring goggles to check out the Florida gar and other more colorful fish below. Just 17 miles north on U.S. 17 is De Leon Springs State Park, where you can rent tubes, kayaks, canoes and paddleboats. This pleasant stop on the Great Florida Birding Trail also has dense nature trails.
Head 25 miles east on 17-92, then drive 15 minutes south on A1A to the Ponce de Leon Inlet Light Station, the state’s tallest lighthouse, set on the tip of a barrier island. Built in 1887, it doubles as a museum with interactive displays of its fascinating history, including a role in rescuing writer Stephen Crane (The Red Badge of Courage) and his crew after an offshore shipwreck in 1897. The 203-step climb to the top affords views over the Intracoastal Waterway and New Smyrna Beach.
Go north 20 miles on U.S. 1 until it turns into the Old Dixie Highway at Tomoka State Park in Ormond. Stop to admire the 400-year-old Fairchild Oak in Bulow Creek State Park; its moss-covered limbs are so heavy, they’ve drooped to the ground and re-rooted. Cross the Halifax River (part of the Intracoastal) on Highbridge Road and continue north on scenic ocean-side A1A to St. Augustine. The 40-minute drive brings you right to the Bridge of Lions—marked by a pair of marble Medici lions and restored in 2011—and its dramatic arc over Matanzas Bay. The Castillo de San Marcos looms over a bank of the bay where a Timucua Indian village once existed. Walk across the tidal moat to explore the various chambers and prison cells that held Spanish-American War prisoners, British pirates, Union soldiers and several Native Americans, including the Timucua and Seminole warrior Osceola. Then pop across to touristy St. George Street, where you can sip a glass of cool sangria under the trees at Mi Casa Cafe. Or duck into a side street to pick up some Florida treasure maps at the Historic Print & Map Company to help you get started on your next treasure hunt.
THE DETAILS
The trip from Orlando to St. Augustine is 145 miles, a three-hour drive.
EAT
THE OLD SPANISH SUGAR MILL
Make your own pancakes on tabletop griddles. 601 Ponce de Leon Blvd., De Leon Springs; 386-985-5644; breakfast for two, $20
HIDDEN TREASURE RUM BAR & GRILL
Known for Apalachicola oysters and softshell crab. 4940 S. Peninsula Dr., Ponce Inlet; 386-761-9271; lunch for two, $25
THE PIER RESTAURANT
Enjoy tasty fried-fish sandwiches and uninterrupted ocean views at this 1950s A-frame. 215 Hwy. A1A, Flagler Beach; 386-439-3891; dinner for two, $28
EXPLORE
BLUE SPRING STATE PARK
2100 W. French Ave., Orange City; 386-775-3663; floridastateparks.org/bluespring
DE LEON SPRINGS STATE PARK
601 Ponce de Leon Blvd., De Leon Springs; 386-985-4212; floridastateparks.org/deleonsprings
PONCE DE LEON INLET LIGHT STATION
4931 S. Peninsula Dr., Ponce Inlet; 386-761-1821; ponceinlet.org
MI CASA CAFE
69 St. George St., St. Augustine; 904-824-9317; micasacafe.com
HISTORIC PRINT & MAP COMPANY
85 Riberia St., St. Augustine; 904-824-5908; historicprint.com
STAY
RCI affiliated resorts in Florida include:
VILLAS AT FORTUNE PLACE 3654
Close to Orlando theme parks, with a pool, Jacuzzi and on-site tennis and fishing. 1201 Simpson Rd., Kissimmee
Member Review:
“Very convenient. Easy half-hour drive to all the theme parks.”
ALHAMBRA AT POINCIANA 1496
A short drive to Orlando. Amenities include a heated pool and lighted tennis court. 500 E. Cypress Pkwy., Poinciana
Member Review:
“This is a great home base for a family who wants to experience a lot away from the resort.”
ALHAMBRA VILLA AT POINCIANA 4036
Horseback riding, boating, sailing, fishing and water-skiing are only minutes away. 500 E. Cypress Pkwy., Poinciana
Member Review:
“We spent every day relaxing by the pool and spent evenings in Kissimmee or Downtown Disney. The resort is very well kept and quiet.”
VACATION VILLAGE AT PARKWAY 4940
Close to Orlando, with an oversized pool and an outdoor picnic area. 2949 Arabian Nights Blvd., Kissimmee
Member Review:
“I loved everything about the resort. The pools are awesome; plenty of activities to keep the family busy.”
HOLIDAY INN CLUB VACATIONS AT ORANGE LAKE RESORT - WEST VILLAGE 0670
Amenities include seven pools, a lazy river and an 80-acre lake with a beach. 8505 W. Irlo Bronson Memorial Hwy., Kissimmee
Member Review:
“The property is massive, the pool area is incredible, the restaurants are good.”
WYNDHAM CYPRESS PALMS 3995
Two heated swimming pools and a barbecue area. 5324 Fairfield Lake Dr., Kissimmee
Member Review:
“An ideal place to relax and just enjoy the Florida sunshine.”
For complete member reviews (as member reviews have been condensed) and additional resort listings, visit RCI.com or call 800-338-7777 (Weeks) or 877-968-7476 (Points). Club Members, please call your specific Club or RCI telephone number.
Non-RCI affiliated resorts:
POSTCARD INN
A mod 1957 Travelodge converted to an enclave of design in 2009. 6300 Gulf Blvd., St. Petersburg; 800-875-2347; postcardinn.com; doubles from $99 per night
LOEWS DON CESAR
This pink Jazz Age -palace, which has Moorish chimneys and double-arched windows, was renovated in 2011. 3400 Gulf Blvd., St. Petersburg; 727-360-1881; loewshotels.com; doubles from $199 per night
TRADEWINDS SANDPIPER HOTEL
A family-friendly resort with a lazy river and a beach slide. 6000 Gulf Blvd., St. Petersburg; 727-360-5551; tradewindsresort.com; doubles from $169
CASA MONICA HOTEL
Historic Moorish-style hotel once owned by Henry Flagler. 95 Cordova St., St. Augustine; 888-213-8903; casamonica.com; doubles from $159 per night
*Meal prices do not include drinks, tax or tip.
NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip.
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Published: Summer 2012
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