Driving east out of Portland through the dark, mossy forest on the south shoulder of Mount Hood, it’s hard to believe that desert lies just 15 miles ahead. But sure enough, before the third song on the radio fades, dense firs give way to wide-set Ponderosa pines. And soon after, the pines yield to juniper, sage and bitterbrush on vast, arid plains that few imagine when they think of the rain-soaked state of Oregon.

About 160 miles from Portland you’ll come to the town of Bend—which is quickly becoming the favorite outdoor playground of the Pacific Northwest. The soaring, glacier-draped peaks of the Cascades lie to the west; miles of desert plateau to the east; and the rushing waters of the Deschutes River in between: No wonder Bend is the fastest-growing city in the state. “Somehow, there’s still enough space for everyone to have their secret spot,” says climbing guide Carlos Cummings. “And the people here are still willing to share them.” That’s for a town where people take their playtime seriously and have the chiseled calf muscles and sunglass tans to prove it.

Whether you spend the day hiking a glacier, scaling a sheer rock wall or prospecting for trout along the wide Deschutes River trail, Bend’s compact five-block downtown is a perfect place to recharge. Choose an outdoor table where you can kick up your feet with a brewery-fresh Hefeweizen and chat with the friendly locals. They’ll seem genuinely glad you made it out to their desert town and will willingly offer up their opinion on where you should go tomorrow.

LAVA LANDS
The 10,000-foot, snowcapped peaks of the Three Sisters Wilderness, visible from Bend’s downtown, are reminders of the area’s volcanic past. But even more potent evidence is found in the otherworldly landscapes of the Newberry Crater National Monument, just south of town. The Newberry volcano, which covers 500 square miles in the Deschutes National Forest, is still active: Two brilliant blue lakes within its gaping, four-mile-wide crater are ringed with hot springs, steaming vents, cinder cones and broad flows of shattered, black obsidian. The loop trail around Paulina Lake allows an excellent survey of the terrain. But if you’re strapped for time, you might prefer to rent a canoe at Paulina Lake Lodge ($10 an hour) to explore the lake. You can stop at a black-pebble beach for a dip in chilly alpine waters, and soak in a timber-framed hot spring on the lake’s north shore.

On your way back to town, cap off your volcanic explorations with a stroll through the mile-long Lava River Cave, a smooth-walled cavern that once served as a subterranean conduit for molten rock. Bring a flashlight (or rent a lantern for $3 at the cave entrance) and a jacket—even on a hot summer day, the cavern temperature stays below 45 degrees.

SMITH ROCK STATE PARK
Twenty miles north of town, in the sleepy desert outpost of Terrebonne, golden stone walls rise from the sagebrush flats like some ancient fortress of the Titans. For rock climbers all over the world, the miraculous desert outcropping of Smith Rock is a hallowed spot. Miles of sheer rock faces present some of the most varied and difficult climbs in the world.

The park also holds a number of easier pitches that even a novice could attempt. Learning to climb here might seem a bit like learning to fry an egg at Le Cordon Bleu. But it’s a good place to start, since the area has spawned several exceptional climbing schools. By the end of your first day you could find yourself swinging from a polypropylene rope across one of the most famous faces in America. (One-day introductory courses start at around $125.)

If you prefer to keep your feet on the ground, the park is also laced with mountain-bike and hiking trails. For the best view, follow the mile-long Misery Ridge trail (not nearly as bad as it sounds) to the top of the plateau overlooking the winding river valley. Seasoned climbers might continue north along the cliff tops to find the Monkey Face, an eerie stone visage that greets you at eye level from atop a 350-foot pillar of stone. In late summer, temperatures at Smith Rock can be oppressive, so schedule your visit early in the day—or better still, at sunset. That’s when the soaring faces of jagged stone glow fiery orange against the dusty desert backdrop.

HIGHWAY IN THE SKY
For a spectacular drive, take the Cascade Lakes Highway west of town, known as the “Highway in the Sky.” This 87-mile, two-lane route whisks you along at 5,000 feet, past gin-clear mountain lakes and enough trails to keep dedicated hikers busy for a lifetime. From Bend, follow the signs for the Mount Bachelor ski area up Century Drive, which rises from the desert floor into the sweet-smelling pine forest. As the road winds south past the dome of Mount Bachelor, you enter a wonderland of high mountain meadows and lava fields. There are dozens of superb lakeside campsites where you can pitch a tent and cast a fly across the still waters while the sun sinks behind the mountains.

Should the surrounding snowcapped peaks tempt you, set your sights on South Sister, the mother of all the area’s day hikes. This is a rare opportunity to summit a glaciated peak with an entirely nontechnical hike. While the 11-mile loop is steep and at times grueling, the climb requires little more than a stout pair of shoes, plenty of water and unflagging determination. Set out at dawn from the trailhead at Devil’s Lake. Then proceed through dense stands of mountain hemlock and slopes of volcanic scree that lead to the windy peak, with the shimmering jewel of Teardrop Pool set in its crater. Here at 10,358 feet you can see half the state spread before you, and the roads of eastern Oregon converging on the glinting hub of Bend nestled in the foreground. From this lofty vantage point, your heart still pounding in your chest, the trip seems easily worth the toil.

PLAY

ALDER CREEK KAYAK & CANOE
The section of the Deschutes River that winds
through Bend is navigable even for novice canoeists.
If you rent a canoe or kayak here, you can carry it
to the river and while away an afternoon on a lazy
stretch of cool water. 805 SW Industrial Way;
541-317-9407; aldercreek.com; rentals from $30 or a
half day

TIMBERLINE MOUNTAIN GUIDES
Leading day hikes and alpine climbs on all the
glaciated peaks in the central Cascades, and
rock-climbing lessons at Smith Rock (from $125).
The two-day Alpine Rock Program ($425) offers a
day of introductory rock climbing at Smith Rock
State Park and a day in the backcountry, scaling
the bare, rocky summit of Mount Washington.
541-312-9242; timberlinemtguides.com

5th ANNUAL BEND FILM FESTIVAL
Last year's event presented more than 85 indie films.
October 9–12, 2008 bendfilm.org

EAT

BEND BREWING CO.
The favorite of downtown’s five excellent brewpubs.
After a hike, grab a table on the deck overlooking
Mirror Pond and order a bracingly bitter IPA and
Caesar salad topped with a grilled steelhead fillet.
1019 NW Brooks St.; 541-383-1599; bendbrewingco.com;
dinner for two, $25*

DEEP
The high desert might be the last place you’d expect
to find excellent, innovative sushi, but Bend’s
sleekest new restaurant offers just that, served
beneath a ceiling of rippling water. Try the raw
slices of Northwest Kobe beef served alongside a
blazing hot river rock to grill them on.
821 NW Wall St.; 541-323-9841; deepbend.com;
dinner for two, $60

MERENDA
Italian and French country fare (try the grilled
elk sausage with dried cherries) served in a
comfortable, elegant room. 1900 NW Wall St.;
541-330-2304; dinner for two, $70

VICTORIAN CAFÉ
The smoked-salmon eggs benedict is superb for
breakfast, but come early or expect to wait.
1404 NW Galveston Ave.; 541-382-6411; breakfast
for two, $25

*Prices cover a three-course meal for two, not including drinks, tax or tip.

STAY

RCI-AFFILIATED RESORTS IN THE REGION INCLUDE:

THE INN OF THE SEVENTH MOUNTAIN, Bend

MOUNT BACHELOR VILLAGE RESORT, Bend

EAGLE CREST, Redmond

For more information, visit RCI.com or call
Weeks: 800-338-7777
Points: 877-968-7476

NON-RCI-AFFILIATED HOTELS:

McMENAMINS OLD ST. FRANCIS SCHOOL
700 NW Bond St.; 877-661-4228;
mcmenamins.com; doubles from $104

PHOENIX INN
300 NW Franklin Ave.; 888-291-4764
or 541-317-9292; phoenixinn.com;
doubles from $169

AMERITEL INN
425 SW Bluff Dr.; 541-617-6111;
ameritelinns.com; doubles from $130

SHILO INN SUITES HOTEL
3105 O.B. Riley Rd.; 800-222-2244
or 541-389-9600; shiloinns.com;
doubles from $96

SUNRIVER RESORT
1 Center Dr., Sunriver; 800-546-3922
or 541-593-1000; sunriver-resort.com;
doubles from $200