| A skier on Copper Mountain; Breckenridge’s network of trails; boarders heading for the slopes at Keystone. |
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As soon as you head west of Denver on Interstate 70, the scenery transforms. Steel and concrete morph into pine and granite, and the front range of the Rockies fills the windshield. WATCH FOR WILDLIFE, cautions a yellow sign; bighorn sheep, pushed from the peaks by heavy snows, casually gaze through a curlicue of horn at the cars streaming by.
By the time you reach Dillon 60 miles later, you’ve nearly climbed to the roof
of the Rockies. Summit County sidles up against the Continental Divide, spiked with peaks and elevations that range from 8,000 to 14,000 feet. Its ample dry snows, top-notch ski areas and picturesque resort towns—all linked by the free Summit Stage bus system—make this region a no-brainer for winter sports fans. Here’s our take on what to expect at Keystone, Breckenridge and Copper Mountain.
KEYSTONE
Veer south off the interstate at Dillon, and the first ski town you reach
is Keystone. Its River Run base area looks as if it had been custom-made for
an easy, low-stress vacation—which, in fact, it was. In its car-free village,
condos and restaurants are clustered around pavilions and cobbled walkways. Families clomp around in ski boots, sprawl beside fire pits and soak up the brilliant Rocky Mountain sunshine at the Kickapoo Tavern (129 River Run
Rd.; 970-468-4601).
Across the Snake River, the River Run gondola quietly whisks skiers and snowboarders to the summit of 11,640-foot Dercum Mountain. While its
Area 51 terrain park is fairly challenging, the signature front slopes will please beginners and intermediates with their mellow groomed runs.
But first impressions can be misleading. Keystone encompasses three peaks;
the challenge increases as you work your way south from Dercum. North Peak offers some steeper cruising and long thigh-burning mogul runs. The Outback hides stashes of powder and nice lines threading through spruce forest.
Enticing snowy bowls gape above North Peak and the Outback like hanging glaciers. Follow the locals trudging to the 12,000-foot ridge above, or hop on the Outback Shuttle, where five bucks gets you a snowcat ride to the top.
When you’re spent, it’s easy to skip the end-of-the-day crowds skiing back to the base. Keystone thoughtfully has strung a second gondola from Dercum Mountain
to North Peak, so you’re just two relaxing gondola rides away from après ski. (800-328-1323; keystoneresort.com)
BRECKENRIDGE
Fifteen miles southwest of Keystone, Breckenridge seems to have been plucked from a snow globe. Flakes drift down on a Main Street lined with brightly painted cabins and steep-pitched Victorians, now filled with restaurants, shops and galleries. The Blue River gurgles under pedestrian bridges and a snowy massif, etched with ski runs, rises right from town.
Prospectors flowed into this 9,600- foot-high outpost in the mid-1800s, bushwhacking their way up river drainages as they panned for gold. They hit pay dirt, including the largest gold nugget ever found in Colorado. “Tom’s Baby” weighed more than 13 pounds; the miner swaddled it in blankets like an infant on the way into town.
Of course, it was snow, not gold, that turned out to be this town’s greatest fortune. Today Breckenridge anchors the nation’s second most-visited ski resort (after Vail). The resort stretches across four peaks and seems to expand every year. Its south end, Peak 10, skirts the town; the north end, Peaks 7 and 8, sits higher, linked to town by the free BreckConnect gondola.
Some call Breckenridge “the gentle giant” for its gradual slopes; indeed, many will find the intermediate runs here quite tame. But advanced skiers and riders will find plenty of pitch in the bowls accessed from the nation’s highest chairlift on Peak 8, which tops out at 12,998 feet. Breck’s renowned terrain parks and pipes—considered some of the best in the country—ramp up the challenge, with an array of boxes, rails, kickers and other features that seem to go on forever. And everyone can enjoy Breck’s stunning serrated scenery, looking across to the Continental Divide scraping at the sky.
Even if you never intend to get on a chairlift, Breckenridge dishes up plenty of entertainment, which makes it the best base for a Summit County vacation. Take a thrill ride on the Gold Runner Coaster ($15), where two-person sleds on rails twist wildly downhill. At the Breckenridge Nordic Center below Peak 8, some 30 kilometers of trails wind through old-growth pines, across meadows and to overlooks with postcard views of the Ten Mile Range.
In town, there’s great dining at every turn, from reliable stalwarts like the South Ridge Seafood Grill (215 S. Ridge St.; 970-547-0063; dinner for two, $75) to newcomers like Ember (see pg. 39) and Twist (200 S. Ridge St.; 970-547-7100; dinner for two, $50). The Arts District is home to a growing number of galleries and art classes (970-453-3363). Sign on with the Breckenridge Heritage Alliance (970-453-9767; breckheritage.com) for a walking tour—the town has more than 250 historic structures—or a snowshoe tour of gold-mining sites.
And be sure to check out the Breckenridge Welcome Center (203 S. Main St.). Its great little history museum reveals Breckenridge “firsts,” including the nation’s first half-pipe and the first ski resort in the world to allow snowboarding. Clearly, Breckenridge recognizes a gold mine. (970-453-5000; breckenridge.com)
COPPER MOUNTAIN
Wedged between behemoths Vail and Breckenridge, Copper Mountain
is favored by Denverites but is still a sleeper to much of North America. Once you ski or ride there, you’ll hope it stays that way. Lovely fall-line cruisers go on forever, fringed with glades and powder stashes. High-alpine bowls crown the peaks like rough-cut diamonds.
Like the old ad slogan, Copper Mountain just tries harder. A well-designed network of high-speed lifts makes it easy to move around the mountain. Beginner and intermediate runs are impeccably groomed, as is the 22-foot half-pipe, the new Olympic standard. On weekends, a snowcat offers rides—free with a valid lift ticket!—up double-diamond Tucker Mountain.
At the end of the day, skiers and riders glide seamlessly onto sundecks that skirt the entire base. Copper Mountain doesn’t really qualify as a town—it has Frisco for that, six miles down the road—but it exudes a happy vibe, with live music, bonfires, festivals and torchlight parades. It quickly feels like a friendly community, where you wave and smile at newly familiar faces.
That makes Copper great for families. Along with its tubing hill and terrain parks, the resort offers loads of programs for kids—all within walking distance—including pizza-making night at a pizzeria, Bricks 4 Kidz (LEGO activities) and the Cage, a teen lounge with table tennis and video games. Frisco’s Peninsula Recreation Area offers dinner sleigh rides (Two Below Zero; 970-453-1520), an acclaimed Nordic ski center (970-668-0866) and the Frisco Adventure Park (970-668-2558; townoffrisco.com), with tubing, a terrain park and a day lodge.
But good luck dragging your kids away from the indoor ski and snowboard training facility, Woodward at Copper (970-968-3400; woodwardatcopper.com). “The Barn” has trampolines, rails and synthetic-snow ramps that launch riders into giant pits filled with foam blocks—a good testing ground before trying tricks on snow. One-day camps ($169) and shorter sessions (from $29) let participants learn at their own pace. “We break it down into elements,” explains Woodward’s Corey Wall. “You start with flipping and twisting, then forward motion, then incline.”
But Summit County does have a way of interfering with such lofty ambition. After a morning of powder skiing and a sunny afternoon on a deck with a local microbrew, you might feel you’ve already reached the top—and life’s pretty darn good up here. (866-841-2481; coppercolorado.com)
EAT
SKI TIP LODGE
A stagecoach stop in the 1800s is now one of Summit County’s most endearing dining experiences. The dinner menu is consistently good. 764 Montezuma Rd., Keystone; 800-354-4386; dinner for two, $140*
MODIS
A contemporary restaurant serving Asian-inspired entrées like seared scallops with miso broth and rice noodles. Sit at the bar for wines by the glass and great appetizers. 113 S. Main St., Breckenridge; 970-453-4330; dinner for two, $80
EMBER
The tables are tucked throughout a chic, restored Victorian. Start with great cocktails at the bar, then proceed to entrées like pork loin in tequila brine with cilantro pesto pozole. 106 E. Adams Ave., Breckenridge; 970-547-9595; dinner for two, $80
BLUE SPRUCE INN
A local favorite for hearty steaks and seafood, including Rocky Mountain trout. The building has been moved three times—testament to its staying power. 20 Main St., Frisco; 970-668-5900; dinner for two, $80
BACKCOUNTRY BREWERY
A handsome pub with views of the mountains and Lake Dillon. Enjoy burgers, barbecue and the award-winning Telemark IPA. 720 Main St., Frisco; 970-668-2337; dinner for two, $35
*Meal prices do not include drinks, tax or tip.
STAY
RCI affiliated resorts in Colorado’s Summit County include:
FRENCH RIDGE CONDOMINIUMS
This Victorian-style town house resort provides free shuttles to Breckenridge and four other ski areas. 416 South Ridge St., Breckenridge
Member Reviews:
“Location is an easy walk to everything.”
“Our Breckenridge condo was amazing.”
SKIER’S EDGE
Embrace winter with snowmobiling, ice fishing, sleigh rides and, of course, skiing. 4192 Hwy. 9, Breckenridge
Member Review:
“We have been coming here for 25 years.
We prefer the seclusion of Skier’s Edge.”
VILLAGE SQUARE AT COPPER MOUNTAIN RESORT
Besides skiing, guests can take advantage of the live entertainment, health club and pool. 207 Ten Mile Circle, Copper Mountain
Member Review:
“Our one-bedroom unit had a very nice balcony with a beautiful view.”
SWAN MOUNTAIN RESORT
Revel in the beauty of Lake Dillon, take to the slopes or simply enjoy the superb location and hospitable staff. 57 Cartier Court, Dillon
Member Review:
“I recommend this resort to people who like the beauty and peace of the mountains and a friendly atmosphere. We can’t wait to return!”
THE CHRISTIE LODGE
One- and three-bedroom units within five
minutes of the Beaver Creek ski area.
47 E. Beaver Creek Blvd., Avon
Member Reviews:
“A perfect home base for staying in beautiful Vail Valley.”
“I had a great time and wish I could have stayed longer to snowshoe. This area is so beautiful.”
For more information, including complete member reviews (as member reviews have been condensed) and additional resort listings, visit RCI.com or call 800-338-7777 (Weeks) or 877-968-7476 (Points). Club Members, please call your specific Club or RCI telephone number.
Non-RCI affiliated resorts:
THE TIMBERS
Well-kept ski-in/ski-out condos on the slopes of River Run, steps from restaurants and shops. River Run Village, Keystone; 800-328-1323; keystoneresort.com; one-bedroom units from $439 per night
LOS PINOS
Studios to three-bedroom condos, with ski-in/ski-out access to the slopes. 43 Snowflake Dr., Breckenridge; 877-448-5233; resortquestbreckenridge.com; studios from $104 per night
WATER HOUSE ON MAIN STREET BRECKENRIDGE
New luxe condos downtown, with outdoor pool and hot tubs. 600 Columbine Rd., Breckenridge; 877-448-5233; resortquestbreckenridge.com one-bedroom units from $189 per night
WESTRIDGE TOWNHOMES
Spacious living rooms, floor-to-ceiling rock fireplaces and hot tubs. 49 Westridge Dr., Breckenridge; 877-448-5233; resortquestbreckenridge.com; four-bedroom townhomes from $269 per night
TUCKER MOUNTAIN LODGE
Nicely appointed condos with ski-in/ski-out access. Walking distance to restaurants. Center Village, Copper Mountain; 888-219-2441; coppercolorado.com; one-bedroom units from $330 per night
NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip.
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