 |
 |
|
|
 |
|
Destination: The Quirkiest Town in Arkansas
|
|
Eureka Springs has been called “the hole in the Bible Belt where the buckle goes through,” a tribute to its live-and-let-live attitude
|
|
BY CLARK MITCHELL
|
|
 |
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
Spring Street in downtown Eureka Springs; a pulled-pork sandwich at Bubba's Barbecue.
|
|
|
|
What do steep, winding streets, carefully tended Victorian houses, haunted hotels, UFO fans, artists’ galleries and rowdy biker bars have in common? You’ll find all these things in Eureka Springs, an Ozark Mountain town of about 2,000 inhabitants.
The town gets its name, of course, from the many mineral springs located here, and you’ll spot them tucked along Spring Street, the shop-lined main drag. Native Americans were first drawn to the water for its healing properties and subsequently, spas popped up here, bringing tourists to town. Not much of a bathing culture remains today, except in the downstairs bathhouse of the Palace Hotel. Instead, visitors come from all over to explore the tiny streets and alleys, shop for Ozark treasures, sample delicious food, browse in the galleries and experience a place like no other.
Eclectic Souvenirs
It’s safe to say that you could cover Eureka’s shopping scene in an afternoon. Most of the shops, like most businesses in town, are along Main Street or Spring Street, which turns back on itself over and over as it makes its way up the mountain. Stop at Two Dumb Dames for freshly made fudge, then head to nearby Tummy Ticklers Kitchen Store, which carries all kinds of Arkansas made Microplane tools and kitchen utensils. There’s a full stock of Southern treats at Danny Abramson and Bill White’s little Gourmet Eureka: Take home a jar of spicy pickled okra, tiny brined green tomatoes (great for martinis), even locally roasted coffee. The two are a font of knowledge about the area, so don’t be shy about peppering them with questions.
Down the hill is something you don’t come across every day—a kite shop. Steve and Linda Rogers describe flying the kites they sell at KaleidoKites as “nonpharmaceutical tranquillity.” If you have trouble weighing the pros and cons of one kite against those of another, they will patiently explain the nuanced differences among the models in their extensive collection.
A Tiny Town With an Appetite
When it comes to eating, Eureka Springs transports you well beyond the Ozarks. Judging from the lines that form outside at dinnertime, the top spot in town may well be Ermilio’s (no reservations taken, so be prepared to wait). Once you taste the spaghetti and meatballs or chicken Parmesan, you’ll understand what the fuss is about. For excellent Mexican with equally good people watching, head to Casa Colina, just above the main road into town. It serves up excellent flamada (flambéed cheese) with house-made chorizo, brisket enchiladas and enormous margaritas.
For lunch, try the Pizza Bar, where Sunday Mininni and Lorrie Green lay out an ample buffet five days a week. The pair also hosts events here for quarterly Diversity Weekends, when folks from around the country descend on Eureka Springs for a fun-filled few days.
If you get a hankering for real barbecue, look no further than Bubba’s Barbecue. This friendly joint is known for pulled-pork sandwiches that you can douse with a tangy house-made sauce
Gallery Hopping
Over the years, Eureka has become an artists’ haven, and there are dozens of galleries to visit. At Quicksilver Art & Fine Craft Gallery, you’ll find jewelry made by local artisans and handcrafted musical instruments, like gongs, chimes and singing bowls. Browse among the brightly colored flower paintings in the upper level of Gryphon’s Roost before heading downstairs for a massage in the spa.
Historic Hotels
Eureka Springs has a few grand hotels, most built in the late 19th or early 20th century. There are two not to miss: the Palace Hotel & Bath House and the 1886 Crescent Hotel & Spa. The Palace is an easy walk from the action, thanks to its Spring Street location halfway up the mountain. In the lower part of the hotel is a historic bathhouse that looks much as it did when it was built in 1901 (with a fresh coat of paint, of course). Guests and nonguests alike can book treatments here. Try “The Works” ($80), which includes a 15-minute soak in mineral water, a 15-minute steam in an old-school steam cabinet (the kind where your head sticks out at the top), a clay mask and a half-hour massage.
The Crescent, at the top of the mountain, is the grande dame, looking down her nose at the town below. What’s on offer here is much less corporeal: The Crescent is rumored to be haunted. Built in 1886, the hotel served for a time as a rather unsuccessful cancer hospital under the direction of a fraudulent doctor, Norman Baker. Guests can take one of the nightly ghost tours to see parts of the hotel that have “active areas,” places where ghosts have been spotted. The tours also take in the hotel’s basement, where the hospital autopsy table and morgue still stand.
A Few Watering Holes
If the sight (or thought) of ghosts drives you to drink, this town has no shortage of options. Inside Rogue’s Manor at Sweet Spring, across from the Palace, you’ll find a surprising collection of single-malt scotches at the cozy wood-paneled bar. Jack’s Place has pool tables and a huge stage where live acts perform. The best seat in the house may be at the smaller bar, upstairs, where the chatty bartender, Judy, introduces tourists to locals and everyone’s on a first name basis at happy hour.
Though Henri’s Just One More is hard to find, it’s worth the effort for the stiff, well-priced martinis. As the name implies, you may find yourself having a few, so you’ll appreciate the fine selection on the jukebox. Bikers and their fans congregate at the Pied Piper Pub for cold brews and Irish-American staples, like corned beef and cabbage.
Slice of Americana
You may not recognize the name Bentonville, but this nearby town changed much of the world—for better or worse, depending on your view—during the second half of the 20th century. It was here on the village square that Sam Walton opened a small five-and-dime in 1950. This little store eventually morphed into the Walmart empire. Today the original shop serves as the Walmart Visitor Center, where you can learn about the corporation’s history and see Sam Walton’s office, still just as he left it when he died in 1992.
If Sam Walton brought everyday goods to the masses at reduced rates, his daughter, Alice Walton, who’s reportedly worth a staggering $23.3 billion, is bringing world-class art to the people. At the new Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art, visitors can see works by such artists as Winslow Homer, Norman Rockwell, Jackson Pollock and Andy Warhol inside the sleek Moshe Safdie–designed building. In true Walmart fashion, the admission is a bargain: It’s free.
On the way back to Eureka Springs, stop at Thorncrown Chapel. This airy 48-foot-tall chapel in the woods was designed by E. Fay Jones, an Arkansas native who apprenticed with Frank Lloyd Wright. Native stone and more than 6,000 square feet of glass were used in the construction, which was completed in 1980. The chapel, like Eureka Springs itself, is a one-of-a-kind treasure built right into the Ozark hills.
SHOP
Two Dumb Dames 33 S. Main St.; 800-237-7268; twodumbdames.com
Tummy Ticklers Kitchen Store 51A S. Main St.; 866-994-9799; shoptummyticklers.com
Gourmet Eureka 7 Center St.; 888-838-0838; gourmet-eureka.com
KaleidoKites 1C Spring St.; 888-836-6251; kaleidokites.com
EAT
Ermilio’s 26 White St.; 479-253-8806; dinner for two, $50*
Casa Colina 173 S. Main St.; 479-363-6226; dinner for two, $60
Pizza Bar 13 N. Main St.; 479-253-7499; lunch for two, $16
Bubba’s Barbecue 166 W. Van Buren; 479-253-7706; lunch for two, $20
*Not including drinks, tax or tip.
RELAX
Palace Hotel & Bath House 135 Spring St.; 866-946-0572; spa treatments from $45
Rogue’s Manor at Sweet Spring 124 Spring St.; 800-250-5827
Jack’s Place 37 Spring St.; 479-253-2219
Henri’s Just One More 19½ Spring St.; 479-253-5795
Pied Piper Pub 82 Armstrong St.; 479-363-9976
EXPLORE
1886 Crescent Hotel & Spa 75 Prospect Ave.; 877-342-9766; ghost tours, adults, $19
Quicksilver Art & Fine Craft Gallery 73 Spring St.; 479-253-7679
Gryphon’s Roost Day Spa & Gallery 137 Spring St.; 479-253-5667
Walmart Visitor Center 105 N. Main St., Bentonville; 479-273-1329; walmartstores.com; free admission
Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art 600 Museum Way, Bentonville; 479-418-5700; crystalbridges.org; free admission
Thorncrown Chapel 12968 Hwy. 62 W.; 479-253-7401; thorncrown.com; free admission
STAY
RCI affiliated resorts near Eureka Springs include:
Table Rock Landing on Holiday Island 5153
Golf courses, three pools, tennis. 1 Landing Dr., Holiday Island, AR
Member Review:
“The accommodations are out of this world.”
Escapes! to Bella Vista Village 1927
Golf fans will love the resort’s 126 holes. 430 Town Center, Bella Vista, AR
Member Review:
“Beautiful views. Good location. Great amenities.”
Silverleaf’s Holiday Hills 1004
This resort has a championship golf course. 2380 East Hwy. 76, Branson, MO (an hour northeast of Eureka Springs)
Member Review:
“Clean and updated, and has very comfortable furniture.”
Wyndham Branson at the Meadows 3294
Family-friendly activities include karaoke and birthday parties. 110 Willow Bend, Branson, MO (an hour northeast of Eureka Springs)
Member Review:
“Fairly close to lots of things to see and do.”
Silverleaf’s Ozark Mountain Resort 0741
Right on the shore of Table Rock Lake. 146 Ozark Mountain Resort Dr., Kimberling City, MO (about an hour northeast of Eureka Springs)
Member Review:
“Great location, just far enough off the beaten path.”
For complete member reviews (as member reviews have been condensed) and additional resort listings, visit RCI.com
or call 800-338-7777 (Weeks) or 877-968-7476 (Points). Club Members, please call your specific Club or RCI telephone number.
Non-RCI affiliated resorts:
Palace Hotel & Bath House 135 Spring St.; 866-946-0572; palacehotelbathhouse.com; doubles from $169 per night
1886 Crescent Hotel & Spa 75 Prospect Ave.; 877-342-9766; crescent-hotel.com; doubles from $119 per night
Treehouse Cottages 165 W. Van Buren; 479-253-8667; treehousecottages.com; doubles from $149 per night
|
|
|
|
Published: Fall 2012
|
|
Photos: Arkansas Parks & Tourism; Clark Mitchell
|
|
|