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Destination: The Austrian Alps
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A summer sampler of the best of Austria's Alps, from Michelin stars to off-roading in the Ötz Valley
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BY EVAN RAIL
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The torrential Gasteiner Ache runs through the town of Badgastein; hikers take a breather in the Walsertal Biosphere.
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Throughout the winter, skiers from around the world head to Austrian slopes for some of Europe’s best snow. But summer—long after the icy roads and schussing crowds are gone—is the best time to actually explore this narrow strip of the Alps. And though Austria’s Alps are tall—the highest peak, Mount Grossglockner, tops 12,460 feet—the region is relatively compact (less than 200 miles across), making it ideal day-trip territory. Down below the mountains, a network of byways big (the autobahn-like E-60) and small (farm roads) lead to Alpine villages, remote culinary outposts and the sorts of vistas Disney dreamed of: jagged peaks, glacier-fed streams and broad valleys filled with wildflowers. One added benefit: In summer, you (probably) won’t even need a helmet.
IN AND OUT OF INNSBRUCK
Pinched between four countries (Germany, Switzerland, Italy and Slovenia), Austria’s Alps pack in plenty. The heart of the region is Innsbruck, the charming de facto capital of the Tirol region. From here you can strike out to the surrounding valleys, but be warned: All that gorgeous scenery can make for some slow going, so plan accordingly.
Just east of Innsbruck, the Swarovski Crystal Worlds exposition skips the company’s 115-year backstory entirely, instead showing off a wild collection of crystal-themed artworks from the likes of Warhol, Dalí and Picasso (kristallwelten.swarovski.com; admission $13*).
West of Innsbruck you’ll find the village of Axams, with a main street lined by ornate, carved-wood farm buildings. One of the few structures not occupied by farm animals is Gasthof Weiss, a rustic pub where fresh zander fish fillets and spätzle are served with half-liters of the Tirol’s Adambräu beer (1 Sylvester-Jordan-Strasse; lunch for two, $50).
AUSTRIA, NATURALLY
“Virtually no industry.” In the Alps, that’s not a complaint but rather a point of pride, especially for Austria’s 44 über-environmental nature parks and preservation areas, like the Walsertal Biosphere. This UNESCO-listed reserve in the western region of Vorarlberg has 155 miles of hiking paths and posted educational trails (walsertal.at). Spanning the regions of Tirol, Salzburg and Carinthia, the sprawling Hohe Tauern National Park is the biggest nature preserve in central Europe, taking in Austria’s highest mountain, the Grossglockner. To learn about the park’s plants and animals, book an English-speaking guide for a walking tour (011-43-4875-5112-35; hohetauern.at; tours from $5).
The Alpine watershed’s many crystalline streams are home to world-record brown trout. Haul in a monster on the mirrorlike Salzach River, where the Bräurup Hotel offers multiday, almost-everything-included flyfishing packages. In July and August, a three-day stay with two meals daily and two days’ fishing is just $350 per person (011-43-6562-6216; braurup.at). Afterwards, talk about the one that got away over the hotel’s house-brewed beers.
THE ÖTZ VALLEY: SPORT AND SAUNA
An hour southwest of Innsbruck, the town of Sölden sits well down the scenic Ötz Valley. This summer, some 4,000 road bikers will be here on August 29 for the start of the Ötztaler Cycle Marathon, which climbs more than 18,000 feet over 147 miles (oetztaler-radmarathon.com). For the rest of the summer, mountain bikers rule this valley, enjoying 550 miles of trails and free uphill bike transport by ski lift. For your own off-road experience, rent a bike from Sport Brugger (98 Dorfstrasse; sport-brugger.at; $30/day) and take the free Gaislachkogel gondola in Sölden to the three-mile single-track that starts way up at 10,000 feet above sea level. At this point, you probably do need full protective gear. Some advice: Before you unwind in the thermal baths and sauna at the striking Aquadome Längenfeld down the hill (140 Oberlängenfeld; 011-43-5253-6400; aqua-dome.at; from $22), remember to take your helmet off.
KUFSTEIN: STEMS AND SPICED HONEY
If Swarovski wasn’t enough crystal for you, head less than an hour east of Innsbruck on the E-60 to the town of Kufstein, home of Riedel, where glass-blowing artisans make the world’s most celebrated wine glasses (riedel.com). Do Riedel glasses really make bad wines taste better? Scientists say no, but sommeliers and oenophiles say “oh, yes.” After a tour, buy some sleek stemware and decide for yourself.
Hard choices lie ahead. Two fabulous restaurants can be found within a few miles of Kufstein. The first, Schindlhaus in nearby Söll, is run by the impossibly young-looking Winkler brothers (134 Dorf; 011-43-533-351-6136; dinner for two, $150). The duo earned a Michelin star in 2005 by focusing on the purity of flavors, like wild duck breast with spiced honey and chestnut cream. The second restaurant is Stanglwirt, in the town of Going am Wilden Kaiser. It balances Alpine Austria’s unapologetically posh culinary side with its strong agrarian tradition (1 Kaiserweg; 011-43-535-820-00-7921; dinner for two, $100). Located in a working barn, Stanglwirt serves classic fare like Zwiebelrostbraten (steak with fried onions) and steak in cognac-pepper sauce—at tables right next to dairy cows.
BADGASTEIN: BOWS AND BATHS
A century ago, Europe’s aristocratic elite met to take the waters at Badgastein, staying in luxury hotels and gambling away the ancestral lands. Today, Gastein sometimes drops the Bad (or “bath”) from its name and promotes itself as a family destination with attractions like archery trails, where replicas of bears and other animals function as targets for kids age nine and older. Happily, the grand fin-de-siècle hotels and architectural highlights like the Gothic-era Nikolauskirche (built in 1389) remain. And while earlier guests once sought out healing dips in the area’s radon-rich waters, treatments today take place on dry land, inside the town’s former silver mines. These offer a radon-inhalation therapy that’s said to relieve chronic pain (gasteiner-heilstollen.info).
SALZBURG: BAROQUE AND BRAISED
Make time for a walk through Salzburg’s Altstadt (Old City). If some of the high baroque gems look familiar, you must have seen The Sound of Music. For a taste of history, reserve a table at Stiftskeller St. Peter. While many European restaurants are old, this atmospheric place dates back to 803. Despite its age, the intimate cellar serves an updated menu of rustic Tirolean classics, like braised oxtail with mushrooms, and duck breast with caramelized cabbage (4 St. Peter Bezirk; 011-43-662-841-2680; dinner for two, $90). Guess you can teach an old restaurant new tricks.
*All prices converted to USD. Meal prices
do not include drinks, tax or tip.
STAY
RCI-affiliated resorts in the
Austrian Alps include:
HOTEL INTERSTAR
Relax in the wellness spa after exploring
surrounding mountainsides via five nearby
cable cars. 99 Löhnersbach, Saalbach
Member reviews:
“Awesome restaurant.”
“Visit the Alms (small farms in the
mountains).”
FERIENCLUB SCHLÖSSLHOF
Located near Innsbruck and the famous
ski center of Axamer-Lizum, which was
built for the 1964 Olympics.
19 Kögelestrasse, Axams
Member review:
“If you like decorated buildings, then
a visit to Innsbruck is a must.”
CLUBHOTEL AM KREISCHBERG
Ten minutes from the historic churches
and castles of Murau, and just a short
walk to the 13 cable cars at Kreischberg.
5 Kreischbergstrasse, St. Georgen
ob Murau
Member reviews:
“This is a beautiful part of Styria,
with high baroque churches.”
“Lovely walking and cycling along
the river.”
FERIENCLUB BELLVUE
On the slope of the Stubnerkogel
ski hill, in a small village close to
world-famous day spas, alpine
trains and scenic hiking trails.
9 Karl-Heinrich-Waggerl-Strasse,
Badgastein
Member reviews:
“Wonderful cafés all over, with the
absolutely BEST
beer.”
“The town looks like a fairy tale,
and the local people were
extremely
friendly.”
“Perfect for a couple looking for
a
serene and peaceful getaway.”
SIESTA FERIENCLUB SCHARNITZ
A favorite mountain-biking and walking
destination near Scharnitz. 310
Giessenbach, Scharnitz-Giessenbach
Member review:
“Excellent indoor/outdoor aquatics
center in nearby Leutasch.”
For more information, including more
member reviews, visit RCI.com or call:
800-338-7777 (Weeks)
877-968-7476 (Points)
Club Members, please call your
specific Club or RCI telephone number.
NON-RCI-AFFILIATED RESORTS:
HOTEL ALTPRADL
Within walking distance of most of
Innsbruck’s main sights. Rooms look like
granny’s Alpine cottage. 8 Pradlerstrasse,
Innsbruck; 011-43-5123-45156;
hotel-altpradl.at; doubles from $150
per night
POSTHOTEL KASSL
A historic mountain lodge (parts date to
1605), with views of edelweiss-covered
meadows. 70 Hauptstrasse, Ötz;
011-43-5252-6303; posthotel-kassl.at;
doubles from $180 per night
DER SONNBERG
Modern all-suite hotel overlooking a
beautiful lake, surrounded by trails.
57 Sonnbergstrasse, Zell am See;
011-43-6542-72184;
der-sonnberg.co.at; doubles from
$236 per night
TAXCHERHOF
A chalet-like hotel with great views
and a superb French restaurant,
Rosengarten. 46 Aschauer Strasse,
Kirchberg in Tirol; 011-43-5357-2527;
taxacherhof.at; doubles from $133 per
night
NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip.
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Published: Summer 2010
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Photos: Bad Gastein Tourism; Dietmar Walser
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