 |
 |
|
|
 |
|
Web Exclusive: Star Tracking on Lanzarote
|
|
This Canary Island outpost offers octopus salad, black sand beaches and Penélope Cruz (sort of)
|
|
BY ANNIE BENNETT
|
|
 |
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
| The Bodegas Stratvs winery near Puerto del Carmen; Los Jameos del Agua, a series of lava formations that local visionary César Manrique turned into an entertainment complex of sorts. |
|
|
|
Penélope Cruz appears in many guises in the movie Broken Embraces, by Spanish director Pedro Almodóvar. But she’s at her most natural and relaxed in the scenes shot on Lanzarote, one of Spain’s Canary Islands.
Year-round sunshine and warm temperatures make the Canaries, 60 miles off the coast of Morocco, a major destination for Europeans seeking a beach vacation. But the movie focuses on Lanzarote’s dramatic volcanic landscapes, away from the coastal tourist centers. Once you’ve seen the movie, with Lanzarote’s starring role, you’ll want to go see the locations for yourself. Luckily, the island is only around 37 miles long and has good roads, so once you get there it’s easy to explore. (Getting there takes a little longer; most flights go through Madrid to land at Lanzarote’s Arrecife airport.)
It was local artist, architect and visionary César Manrique (1919-1992) who introduced Almodóvar to Lanzarote. Be sure to visit Manrique’s former home in Tahiche, near Costa Teguise on the eastern shore. Built in 1968 in the middle of a black lava field, the house shows his obsession with integrating manmade structures into the landscape: Some of the rooms are in underground lava bubbles. Visitors can tour the art gallery and learn more about Manrique’s lifelong efforts to preserve the island’s natural beauty.
Driving north, stop for lunch at family-run El Lago (27 Los Morros; 011-34-928-84-81-76; dinner for two, $90*), between the low-key coastal villages of Arrieta and Punta Mujeres. The tasty varieties of local fish are similar to bass or bream; just let the waiters advise you. To start, have some prawns with mojo dips—a red one pepped up with paprika, and a milder green one flavored with coriander. And definitely try the local wines, such as Bermejo, a fabulous white.
Farther north, you’ll drive through lava fields on the way to Los Jameos del Agua, a lava tube that Manrique turned into a massive grotto. At the northern tip of the island, he created an observation point called the Mirador del Río out of an old gun battery at the edge of a cliff. The bar has panoramic views of the island of La Graciosa.
As you head south down the western coast, stop for a swim at Famara Beach, which is where Lena, Penélope Cruz’s character, walks on the sand with her lover. Backed by spectacular cliffs, the long, curving bay never seems to get crowded.
If you’re based in Puerto del Carmen, it’s a short drive to La Geria, the wine-producing area, where rows of vines planted in the volcanic soil form a mesmeric pattern. Stop off at the upscale new Stratvs winery, with a shop and two restaurants, one outside and another underground. Choose from octopus salad, sirloin strips or kid stew, a local specialty (18km Ctra. La Geria; 011-34-928-80-99-77; dinner for two, $82). For tapas and local goat cheeses with a vineyard view, don’t miss El Chupadero (Carretera de la Geria 3, 011-34-928-17-31-15, snacks and wine for two, $40).
From there, continue into Timanfaya National Park to visit Lanzarote’s volcano at its heart, still smouldering away. Then drive on to El Golfo, the beach that was Almodóvar’s inspiration for Broken Embraces. In the movie, Cruz gazes at the magenta cliffs and the eerie green lake that stretches across the black sand. Lanzarote is worth visiting for that sight alone.
*Prices cover a meal for two, not including drinks, tax and tip.
NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details.
|
|
|
|
Published: January 1, 2010
|
|
Photos: Bodegas Stratvs; iStockphoto
|
|
|