Just past Branson’s city limits, a network of back roads fans out through the forested hills and hollers of the Ozark Mountains. Waterfalls plunge from limestone bluffs; elk feed in shadow-cast valleys; and the Buffalo River’s pristine rapids give truth to Arkansas’s official nickname: the Natural State. Spots of civilization crop up here and there—rustic wood cabins, small-town cafés and shops ready to rent canoes and fishing gear. Smack in the middle of all this is a kitschy little town filled with fine art and big-city experiences. So pack your hiking boots—and a cocktail dress.
THE DRIVE:
Leaving Branson, you get a stunning parting view of Table Rock Lake before starting a 35-mile run west, skirting the state line. After a while the hills look more like mountains, and open fields give way to dense forests. Take a leisurely tour of this landscape-in-transition on the butterfly-filled trails of Dogwood Canyon (dogwoodcanyon.com). If you’re hungry, stop and pick some berries at nearby Persimmon Hill Farm, or just sit a spell and marvel at its rows of bounty (persimmonhill.com).
After a sharp turn south on Route 23 you’ll cross into Arkansas, and shortly find yourself amid the Victorian houses and antiques shops of Eureka Springs. People once flocked here for the mineral springs, but today this artists’ enclave draws second-home owners and honeymooners. Just outside town is the spectacular Thorncrown Chapel, a towering, thin latticework of timber trusses and glass walls that provide a quiet refuge with heavenly views of the hardwood forest (thorncrown.com). After walking the town’s steep streets, splurge on the pork shank or scallops at Rogue’s Manor (124 Spring St.; 479-253-4911; dinner for two, $88).
Heading east, a 45-mile stretch of hairpin twists and turns will take you through a region full of natural wonders. (A good map that includes smaller country roads is strongly recommended.) Start by hitting one of the superb hiking trails in the nationally protected Ponca and Upper Buffalo wilderness areas. At Lost Valley, massive stone forms offer hours of exploring. If Clark Creek is flowing, Eden Falls is the prize at the end of the slippery three-mile round-trip stroll. (For details, visit the National Park Service website, nps.gov, or call 870-439-2502.) Just a stone’s throw south on Route 21, you’ll glimpse elk grazing at dusk and dawn in Boxley Valley.
When you need to fuel up, head east on Route 74 for fried chicken and cobbler at the Ozark Café in Jasper (870-446-2976). Canoeists should drive five miles north of Jasper to Pruitt Landing, a busy access point on the Buffalo National River where outfitters ferry vanloads of floaters and canoes. Pack a lunch, and spread a blanket on a wide gravel bar to watch the parade go by.
Continuing south takes you through the core of the Ozarks–St. Francis National Forest. Near Pelsor, mountain vistas give way to the multistory, mushroom-like configurations of Pedestal Rocks. To return, go back north toward Table Rock Lake through Harrison—or just explore your own route. After all, it’s rare to find a back road in these parts that’s not scenic.
STAY
RCI®-affiliated resorts north of Branson, MO, include:
LAKEWOOD RESORT,
Lake of the Ozarks, MO
THE PINES AT TREETOP CONDOMINIUMS,
Lake of the Ozarks, MO
For more information, visit RCI.com or call
Weeks: 800-338-7777
Points: 877-968-7476
NON-RCI-AFFILIATED OZARKS HOTELS:
BASIN PARK HOTEL
12 Spring St., Eureka Springs,
AR; 877-643-4972; www.basinpark.com; doubles from $93
OZARK BLUFF DWELLERS CABINS
800-448-2218; www.ozarkbluffdwellers.com; from
$135, two-night minimum
BUFFALO NATIONAL RIVER CAMPGROUNDS
The National Park Service
lists campgrounds throughout
the park. 870-439-2502;
www.nps.gov/buff