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Destination: Rediscovering Reno
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With new city amenities and the Sierra foothills at its back door, this Nevada city is giving Vegas a run for its money
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BY TINA LASSEN
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| Kayakers on downtown’s Truckee River Whitewater Park; the Wild River Grille’s scallop tapas. |
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From the saddle of his mountain bike, Jim Bell surveys his surroundings.
To his right, the wooded drainage of Hunter Creek snakes down from the Sierra wilderness. To his left, the Truckee River scribbles across the valley floor. He points a finger toward a web of hiking and mountain-biking trails on nearby Peavine Peak, and then across the broad desert basin to the Virginia Range, where wild horses roam. Incongruously, right there in the foreground, rises a skyline spiked with a dozen oversize casinos.
“Most people don’t realize that Reno is virtually surrounded by public land,” says Bell, owner of Sierra Adventures. His company offers a huge array of guided tours in the area’s desert and mountains. “The outdoor recreation here is almost unlimited, but it’s not what comes to mind when people think of Reno.”
While ostentatious casino architecture commands the skyline, gaming no longer dominates this city’s psyche. Today, Reno is reinventing itself, with a revived downtown full of parks and paths, a white-water playground on the Truckee River, a new ballpark and destination-worthy spa resorts. Sure, gaming remains a draw, but more and more visitors are coming out of the casinos and into the Sierra sunshine.
TAKE IT OUTSIDE
Reno’s iconic sign, glaring with more than 2,000 bulbs, arches across downtown’s Virginia Street, welcoming visitors to “The Biggest Little City in the World.”
In its 1960s heyday, Reno drew more visitors than Las Vegas, some 450 miles
to the south. Today, Reno’s ace in the hole is its location: The city of 217,000 practically straddles the California–Nevada border, basking in a sunny, dry high-desert climate (elev. 4,412 feet) just east of the Sierra Nevada range. Ponderosa pine forest, red rock desert and sparkling blue Lake Tahoe all lie within an hour’s drive. In other words, it’s a city that’s poised for outdoor adventure.
Getting to Reno is easy—with plenty of direct flights to nearby Reno–Tahoe International—and so is getting out into nature. Simply contact Sierra Adventures (866-323-8928; wildsierra.com) or stop by its Adventure Desk in the Silver Legacy Resort (407 N. Virginia St.). The outfitter has the guides and gear (and the lessons, if needed) for all kinds of sporty pursuits: You can hike the scenic canyons of the Nevada outback, mountain bike right from your hotel on miles of singletrack, horseback ride across desert plateaus, and kayak or raft on the Truckee River, taking out in the heart of downtown. “Unlike more remote adventure sports towns,” Jim Bell says, “in Reno you can either go cheap or VIP for hotel rooms and meals at the end of the day.”
With the Sierra Nevada and high desert, it’s hard to imagine a sport you can’t do here. The climate is idyllic for cycling, golf (on more than two dozen courses) and boating on the region’s lakes. Plus, there’s the pull of lovely Lake Tahoe, with its roster of summer sports and world-class ski resorts.
RIVER REVITALIZATION
The Truckee River flows clean and clear from Lake Tahoe, coursing east right through the center of Reno. Bridges, benches and walking/cycling paths line
its banks for miles, part of a decades-long redevelopment project. Hop on a rental bike at Sierra Adventures and pedal past the band shell at Wingfield Park, through nature preserves busy with muttering geese, to a quiet trout-fishing spot or
to a growing array of riverfront cafés, brewpubs and plazas.
In 2004, the city opened the Truckee River Whitewater Park, just west of Virginia Street. Dredging channels and rearranging tons of rock created the perfect current for white-water kayakers: a half-mile-long stretch with 11 drop-pools, surfable waves and a slalom course. Rated Class II–III, it’s accessible for beginners and Olympians alike. Tubers and rafters also join in the fun, and on a hot summer day the Truckee River takes on the air of a downtown pool party. Smooth granite boulders provide prime seating for spectators.
With the success of the $1.5 million park and other riverfront redevelopment, now dollars, too, seem to be flowing into Reno. “It’s done so much for this town,” says Matt Polley, owner of the downtown coffeehouse Java Jungle and the adjacent wine bar Jungle Vino (246–248 W. 1st St.; 775-329-4484).
DOWNTOWN SIGHTS AND EVENTS
Several worthwhile attractions lie within a block or two of the river. The National Automobile Museum (10 S. Lake St.; 775-333-9300; automuseum.org) showcases more than 200 vehicles, most collected by local casino magnate Bill Harrah, who died in 1978. Over the years, Harrah amassed one of the world’s most extensive automobile collections, numbering more than 1,400 vehicles. This excellent museum is filled with rarities, including one of the world’s first “horseless carriages”—the steam-powered 1892 Philion Road Carriage—as well as a prototype 1937 Airmobile, a copper-clad Rolls Royce and the 1949 Mercury coupe driven by James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause.
Just a few blocks north, Reno hit one out of the park with its gleaming new baseball stadium for the AAA Reno Aces (minorleaguebaseball.com). The $81 million Aces Ballpark anchors the Freight House District (250 Evans Ave.; 775-334-7094; freighthouse.com), a growing complex of restaurants, bars, music clubs and ample decks overlooking the ballfield.
Along with ballgames, dozens of outdoor events fill Reno's calendar. World-class kayaking competitions highlight the Reno River Festival (renoriverfestival.com) in May; the Great Reno Balloon Race (renoballoon.com) attracts more than 100 hot-air balloonists the weekend after Labor Day; and the National Championship Air Races & Air Show (airrace.org) in mid-September bring aircraft screeching through the sky at speeds topping 500 mph.
TIME TO PAMPER
Two miles south of downtown, the Peppermill Resort Spa Casino is banking on a more serene experience with its Spa Toscana, 33,000 square feet of first-class indulgence. Treatments such as the Sierra Sports Massage provide a fine complement to Reno’s outdoor pursuits. If you book a visit, allow yourself plenty of time to enjoy the Caldarium, a grand sunlit space with spraying fountains, hot and cold plunge pools and an outdoor deck. Special lounge chairs come with resonant built-in speakers and iPod selections with titles like “Laughing Bone Therapy” and “Visceral Bliss.”
Like Reno itself, the Peppermill’s recent multimillion-dollar renovations have created a resort experience virtually independent of gaming. Peppermill’s casino is vast, but you easily could spend days here enjoying the live shows, the spa and fitness facilities, and an array of clubs and restaurants, without ever hearing the ping ping of a slot machine.
GOLD IN THEM THAR HILLS
It’s a winding half-hour drive up through pine-covered foothills to the historic mining town of Virginia City. More than $700 million worth of silver and gold—that’s nearly $16 billion in today’s dollars—was hammered from the Comstock Lode in the surrounding hills in the 1860s and 1870s, earning Virginia City the title “Queen of the Comstock.” The Bucket of Blood (1 S. C St.; 775-847-0322) and other century-old saloons still line its wooden sidewalks, and the V&T Railroad (370 F St.; 775-847-0380; virginiatruckee.com) chugs along its original line to Carson
City and back, offering grand views of the Carson River Valley.
Despite some touristy fudge and souvenir shops, Virginia City is still full of treasures. Check out the Mark Twain Museum (53 S. C St.), where the writer’s desk remains from his days here spent working for the Territorial Enterprise newspaper. Venture deep into a mining tunnel during the half-hour tour of the Ponderosa Mine (daily tours $7; for more information, go to visitvirginiacitynv.com or call 800-718-7587). The Ponderosa, the knowledgeable guide will tell you, never made a dime.
Ah, such is the boom and bust of the West. Virginia City had its day; now it’s Reno’s turn to strike it big once again.
EAT
WILD RIVER GRILLE
Worth a stop for fresh-squeezed cocktails and a
great patio on the Truckee River. Lots of steaks
and chops, as well as river-inspired dishes like
plum chipotle salmon. 17 S. Virginia St.;
775-284-7455; dinner for two, $60*
FOURTH STREET BISTRO
Chef Natalie Sellers trained at both the
California Culinary Academy and Chez
Panisse,
so the inventive dishes made with organic, locally
sourced ingredients come as no surprise. The
ever-changing menu is always terrific, and the
wine
list is excellent. 3065 W. Fourth St.;
775-323-3200; dinner for two, $70
LULOU'S
Locals regularly recommend this modern,
stylish bistro, which serves everything from
Middle Eastern to Asian flavors. Take a table
in the shady courtyard if the weather allows.
1470 S. Virginia St.; 775-329-9979; dinner
for two, $80
ROMANZA RISTORANTE ITALIANO
Skip the traditional casino buffets and check
out some of Reno’s fine-dining options, such
as this restaurant in the Peppermill Resort.
Mesquite-grilled steaks, freshly made pastas
and Italian classics like osso bucco are highlights
on the lengthy menu. 2707 S. Virginia St.;
866-821-9996; dinner for two, $70
LOUIS' BASQUE CORNER
For a taste of Reno’s Basque culture at this
no-frills corner bar, order up a Picon punch,
made with Amer Picon (a French liqueur),
brandy, grenadine and a twist. Dinners are
family style, with dishes like oxtail
bourguignonne and lamb stew. 301 E.
Fourth St.; 775-323-7203; dinner for
two, $60
GREAT BASIN BREWING CO.
Located in the Victorian Square area in
the neighboring town of Sparks, this brewpub
with an outdoor deck is a local favorite. The
menu lists classic pub fare (burgers, sandwiches
and hearty soups), while the house specials
might include ale-battered fish and shepherd’s pie.
846 Victorian Ave., Sparks; 775-355-7711;
lunch for two, $20
STAY
RCI affiliated resorts in Reno include:
PLAZA RESORT CLUB
Guests will find tennis courts, jogging trails
and a picnic area in nearby Wingfield Park.
The resort’s lounge has free Wi-Fi. 121 West St.
Member Reviews:
“Beautiful resort. The decor was Victorian style,
with lots of antiques to enjoy.”
“My children were delighted with the free
morning pastries."
WORLDMARK RENO
The one- and two-bedroom units have electric
fireplaces; guests can ride the shuttle to the
Reno Strip. 250 N. Arlington Ave.
Member Reviews:
“Good location and great view of the city and
mountains!”
“It’s within walking distance of the casinos,
and the resort itself is very
nice and clean.”
For complete member reviews
(as member reviews have been condensed)
and additional resort listings, visit RCI.com or call
Weeks: 800-338-7777
Points: 877-968-7476
Club Members, please call your
specific
Club or RCI telephone number.
NON-RCI AFFILIATED RESORTS:
PEPPERMILL RESORT SPA CASINO
South of downtown, Reno’s most elegant,
complete resort experience. Book one of the new
Tuscany suites. 2707 S. Virginia St.; 866-821-9996;
peppermillreno.com; doubles from $60 per night;
Tuscany suites from $130 per night
SILVER LEGACY RESORT
In the heart of the strip, a good base for anyone
who wants to be within walking distance of
downtown attractions. Sierra Adventures is
based here. 407 N. Virginia St.; 800-687-8733;
silverlegacyreno.com; doubles from $70 per night
*Meal prices do not include drinks, tax or tip.
NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip.
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Published: Summer 2011
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Photos: Visit Reno Tahoe; Jeff Dow
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