Spread from one ocean to another, America makes for a formidable road trip. Assuming you stick to the Lower 48, your best shot for taking it all in might be the drive from Bangor, ME, to San Diego, but even that 3,275-mile odyssey fails to pass through half the states. Still—to point out the obvious—road trips aren't just about maximizing the number of sights or states seen. Choosing a drive come vacation time is a vote for slowing down, a pledge to make room for the unexpected detours and deep conversation. Through some sort of automotive alchemy, a great drive transforms what can be the tough part (the getting there) into the reason to set out in the first place. We asked five local writers to plot five road trips in their part of the country. Each drive takes its inspiration from one of our travel icons: PLAY, EAT, SHOP, RELAX and EXPLORE. But all of them celebrate the spirit to move.
1 Big Island Adventure
Chasing steam plumes, sub rides and more on Hawaii's Belt Road
BY LYNN COOK
Kilauea Volcano, high above Hilo on the Big Island of Hawaii, has been erupting for 25 years. Luckily, the lava flows down the uninhabited side of the mountain into the ocean, where it sends up great plumes of steam. Ever growing, Hawaii Island is by far the state’s largest island, though you can circle it in a day. But it’s much better to take it slow, making time for sea turtle stops, farm-to-table dining and a front-row seat to watch this ancient land expand into the ocean, inch by fiery inch.
THE DRIVE:
Start in Hilo with a big breakfast at Ken’s House of Pancakes: eggs with Portuguese sausage and sweet-bread french toast. (The friendly waitress will likely offer advice on downtown shopping.) Walk off your excesses by strolling around the moon bridges and pagodas in Queen Liliuokalani Gardens, a 30-acre Japanese garden near the waterfront. Before departing, load up on guavas and papayas at the Hilo Farmer’s Market. (A bag of fresh Hilo Stone cookies, made at Mountain View Bakery, won’t hurt, either.)
Leave Hilo on Highway 11, also known as the Belt Road, which heads straight up the flank of the volcano. At the top, you’ll feel as if you’ve arrived on the surface of the moon as you circle the crater rim in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. For a lava sighting, head down toward the ocean on Chain of Craters Road. A park ranger directs foot traffic to the most recent viewing spot. Back on Highway 11, the trip down the other slope takes you from volcanic moonscape to the coconut palm–lined black sand beach at Punaluu. Green sea turtles can be spotted in the surf, munching on seaweed. Visitors should keep their distance—even though no one seems to have told the turtles the same.
Down the highway you’ll reach the town of Kailua Kona. Its kitschy shops can take a whole day to explore. Instead, try the Atlantis Submarine, which dives into Kailua Bay and offers nose-toporthole views of thousands of fishes (800-548-6262; $40–$80). After joining Highway 19, you’ll wind through miles of sharp black lava flow, broken occasion-ally by the green oasis of a resort. As you turn toward Mauna Kea’s 13,796-foot peak, cows start to appear on the hillsides. This is Waimea, Hawaii’s cowboy country, and also home to one of the state’s best farm-to-table-style meals at Merriman’s restaurant (808-885-6822; dinner for two, $100).
The coastal drive on your way back to Hilo is punctuated with cascading waterfalls. You’ll also spy distant views of otherworldly steam furies: as molten lava drops into the ocean, the Big Island grows by acres every year.
STAY
RCI®-affiliated resorts on the Big Island include:
SHELL VACATIONS CLUB
at Paniolo Greens, Waikoloa
RAINTREE'S KONA REEF
Hawaii, Kailua Kona
For more information,
visit RCI.com or call
Weeks: 800-338-7777
Points: 877-968-7476
Non-RCI-Affiliated Big Island Hotels:
KALAEKILOHANA B&B
94-2152 South Point Rd.,
Kau, Hwy. 11 between mile
marker 69 and 70; 808-939-8052;
kau-hawaii.com;
doubles from $189
OUTRIGGER KEAUHOU BEACH RESORT
78-6740 Alii Dr., Kailua Kona;
808-322-3441;outrigger.com
doubles from $165
FOUR SEASONS RESORT HUALALAI
72-100 Kapupulehu Dr.,
Kailua Kona; 808-325-8000;
fourseasons.com;
doubles from $725
2 NORTHWEST WINE DRIVE
Cruising through Washington's two vineyard regions.
BY TOM COLLIGAN
“You can go to Napa and muscle it out on Highway 29—standing five-deep at every tasting bar—or you can come to eastern Washington, and relax,” says Scott Williams of Kiona Vineyards. While his opinion isn’t exactly unbiased, he does have a point. Even with more than 400 wineries, Washington’s burgeoning 11-million-acre Columbia Valley wine region still provides ample elbow room for travelers and tasters to spread out and experience a sense of discovery. Here you can fill your trunk with countless award-winning Bordeaux- and Rhône-style wines that your friends back home have never heard of, chase the horizon under boundless desert skies and trace the wind-scoured cliffs overlooking the Columbia River.
THE DRIVE:
From Seattle, it’s just 150 miles up and over the shoulder of Mt. Rainier. As you enter the Yakima Valley, the landscape erupts into apple and peach orchards, high-trellised fields of Cascade hops and, increasingly, wine grapes. (In the last five years alone, the number of wineries in the region has doubled to 75.) Since the first vineyards began popping up in the early 1970s, winemakers have gradually learned to coax deeply concentrated red wines from the silty soils.
At exit 40, take the Yakima Valley Highway to taste your way through more than a dozen vineyards in the Rattlesnake Hills. Though much of this richly agrarian valley remains short on tourist amenities, there are excellent taco stands along the way. (A case in point: the pork tacos at Garcia’s in Grandview.)
Take exit 96 to reach Red Mountain—the state’s first wine-growing region to produce a wine rated a perfect 100 by critic Robert Parker. The staff at Kiona Vineyards’ tasting room (509-588-6716) serves up extraordinary late-harvest dessert wines. From here, continue on Highway 124 east across the Snake River. Well-groomed orchards give
way to rippling wheatfields and rolling hills. Turn south on Highway 125, and follow the railroad tracks into Walla Walla.
In this flat college town, a wealth of tasting rooms can be found on or near Main Street, making for a day’s worth of on-foot wine tasting. Standouts include Waterbrook, Forgeron and Spring Valley Vineyards. Plan to end your day at the elegant Whitehouse-Crawford Restaurant, over a plate of the cider-braised pork shank (55 W. Cherry St.; 509-525-2222; dinner for two, $100).
Departing Walla Walla, head west on Highway 12, stopping along the way at l’Ecole 41, one of the area’s oldest wineries. (509-525-0940) Soon after, you’ll meet up with the broad waters of the Columbia River at its massive final westward bend. Cross the river at Umatilla to drive the less-traveled Highway 14 along the north bank. The wide-rim rock canyon slowly narrows into cliffs of black basalt, and Mount Hood rises in the distance.
STAY
DESERT WIND WINERY
A strangely apt southwestern
-themed winery, with four cozy,
deluxe rooms overlooking the
Yakima River and snowcapped
Mount Adams to the west.
2258 Wine Country Rd.,
Prosser; 509-786-7277;
desertwindwinery.com
doubles from $250
THE INN AT ABEJA
Five rustic yet richly appointed
cottages on a 100-year-old
farm, and one of the finest
wineries in Walla Walla. 2014
Mill Creek Rd., Walla Walla;
509-522-1234; abeja.net
doubles from $215
CARSON RIDGE CABINS
Seven private cabins on a
grassy bluff with views of the
dramatic cliffs of the lower
Columbia gorge, just west of
Hood River, OR. 1261 Wind
River Rd., Carson; 877-816-7908;
carsonridgecabins.com
doubles from $210
3 NEW ENGLAND'S ANTIQUES ROAD
Hunting treasures large and small on New Hampshire's Route 4
BY MEG LUKENS NOONAN
In late spring, lilacs and apple blossoms throw their scents in the New Hampshire air. And along a 20-mile stretch of rural road, the antiquing season is just kicking in. Collectors of everything from wooden cannonball beds to sap buckets scour the dozens of shops that line Route 4 between the cities of Portsmouth and Concord. Good news: If you find that treasure, New Hampshire has no sales tax.
THE DRIVE:
Route 4 in southern New Hampshire is an antiques lover’s dream. Scenic and short, it links four towns—Lee, Northwood, Epsom and Chichester—that are filled with mom-and-pop antiques shops, cavernous dealer showcases and a few appointment-only galleries.* The eastern end of Antiques Alley starts with a buffet. Fifteen dealers at Lee Circle Antiques (603-868-3424) combine to offer a hodge-podge of pottery, old clocks, green glass bottles, chests and baskets.
Leaving Lee, the two-lane road cuts through 10 miles of farmland and forest on the way to Northwood. Fern Eldridge & Friends (603-942-5602) manages to cram 35 dealers into a restored barn. You can expect collector-worthy 18th- and 19th-century furniture, folk art, textiles, architectural items and woodenware. “We don’t sell milk bottles,” Eldridge says. “We’re a real antique shop.” For something more eclectic but nearby, try R.S. Butler’s Trading Co. (603-942-8210). Inside a tulip-pink Victorian barn you’ll find country furniture, old tools, architectural salvage, glass and dishware, even vintage records. If you need a break, head to Susty’s Café (603-942-5862) for vegan fare: fresh fruit smoothies, wraps or tofu lasagna. That should keep you light enough on your feet to hit the road again.
Your next stop is a pair of refined shops in Chichester. Start at Austin’s Antiques (603-798-3116), where 30 dealers show an uncluttered mix that includes American cupboards, blanket chests and duck decoys. Next door, the year-old Keepers Antiques (603-798-3399) specializes in early American 18th- and 19th-century furniture and folk art. Shaker aficionados should make the pilgrimage down Horse Corner Road (left off Route 4) to Douglas Hamel Antiques (56 Staniels Rd., Chichester; 603-798-5912).
From here, retrace your way east down Route 4, hitting shops you missed in the morning or revisiting ones for a second look. If the weather allows, you can even stop for a dip at the town beach on Northwood Lake.
As you make your way back toward the sea, think dinner. Newick’s, a 60-year-old institution, serves fried clams and chowder at tables overlooking Great Bay (431 Dover Point Rd., Dover; 603-742-3205). For a more refined seafood meal, reserve a table at Pesce Blue back in Portsmouth (103 Congress St.; 603-430-7766). This sophisticated Italian hot spot is the perfect place to relive the day’s hunt. Go ahead and pull out your newly acquired yellow ware creamer—just to gaze at it. Everyone will understand.
*Call all stores to confirm they will be open when you visit.
STAY
WENTWORTH BY THE SEA
This imposing whitewashed
1874 hotel near Portsmouth
was relaunched in grand style
by Marriott in 2003. 588
Wentworth Rd., New Castle;
866-240-6313; wentworth.com;
doubles from $199
THREE CHIMNEYS INN
About 10 minutes from
Portsmouth, the restored
1649 mansion and 1795
carriage house have 23 rooms
between them. 17 Newmarket
Rd., Durham; 888-399-9777;
threechimneysinn.com;
doubles from $134
INN AT STRAWBERY BANKE
An 1814 house with seven
antiques-filled rooms. 314 Court
St., Portsmouth; 800-428-3933;
innatstrawberybanke.com;
doubles from $145
SISE INN
The 34 rooms, all with period
furnishings, are in the grand
Queen Anne main residence
or a restored carriage house.
40 Court St., Portsmouth;
877-747-3466; siseinn.com;
doubles from $159
4 HIGH DESERT SPAS
A Northern New Mexico drive to induce "ahhhs..."
BY KATIE ARNOLD
The Land of Enchantment is justly famous for its arts and spices, but its secret weapon is its spas. At first glance, it seems improbable that anything even remotely self-indulgent could stake a toehold in terrain so vast and craggy, but in New Mexico, beauty hides in unexpected places. The best way to discover it—both the natural and the skin-deep—is to embark on a roving road odyssey whose mission is thrillingly simple: maximal awe, optimal relaxation.
THE DRIVE:
Santa Fe is home to so many luxe spa retreats, you’d need more than a week to do them all justice. Instead, escape the Plaza throngs and head three miles north to SháNah Spa in the lush Tesuque Valley. Located at the 150-year-old Bishop’s Lodge Resort, the spa recently expanded to include private outdoor treatment rooms and the city’s only watsu pool. Its newest treatment, the Rainbow Chakra Massage ($125), spoils you with an hour-long head-to-toe rub-down using natural infusions (mint, citrus, rose-petal oil) to invigorate each of the body’s energy centers, or chakras.
From there, it’s a stunning two-hour drive north to Taos—and back in time—along the High Road, a two-lane route that winds through farming villages on the flanks of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Stop for tortilla soup and enchiladas at Rancho de Chimayo’s rambling hacienda (505-351-4444; lunch for two, $30). Afterward,wander over to El Santuario de Chimayo, a nearly 200-year-old adobe chapel whose healing dirt draws thousands of pilgrims a year.
Just off the Plaza in Taos, the Living Spa at the exquisite El Monte Sagrado eco-resort blends Native American and global healing traditions. When you’re not meditating in its private Sacred Circle—a labyrinth of stones—ensconce yourself in the spa. The High Desert Body Treatment ($170) drenches your parched skin with indigenous-plant oils from Taos, exfoliates your scales with a salt rub from the Zuni nation, and then moisturizes you with a soothing sage lotion.
The main road southwest from Taos drops steeply into the Rio Grande Gorge, whose rough sandstone walls shade kayakers and rafters on the river. Turn west on Route 570 at the tiny arts community of Pilar, and meander along the river, stopping for a dip or a stroll in the Orilla Verde Recreation Area. Continue on across the river at Taos Junction Bridge, then head west on 567 until US 285. From there it’s 10 miles south to Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs, a kitschy but beloved natural-health outpost with eight guest cabins and four different sulfur-free mineral pools: lithia, iron, soda and arsenic. Ojo’s 10 communal outdoor tubs encourage all-day lounging, but if you prefer to soak solo, there are three secluded pools. (All day tub pass, from $16.)
Looping back to Santa Fe, it’s time to pay homage to the granddaddy of New Mexico spas, Ten Thousand Waves. This Japanese-style hot springs in the foothills above town has teak outdoor baths, a new meditation room and an enormous koi pond. The massages are legendary, as is the exfoliating salt glow, but for true perfection, try the Indo-Asian Hot-Oil massage ($144) chased by a sandalwood exfoliation and an Ayurvedic herbal wrap. Paradise found.
STAY
RCI®-affiliated resorts in Santa Fe include:
OTRA VEZ EN SANTA FE
For more information, visit RCI.com or call
Weeks: 800-338-7777
Points: 877-968-7476
NON-RCI-AFFILIATED NEW MEXICO
HOTELS :
SHANAH SPA AT BISHOP'S LODGE
1297 Bishops Lodge Rd.,
Santa Fe; 505-819-4000;
bishopslodge.com; doubles
from $319
EL MONTE SAGRADO
317 Kit Carson Rd., Taos;
800-828-8267;
elmontesagrado.com;
doubles from $269
OJO CALIENTE MINERAL
SPRINGS
50 Los Baños Dr., Ojo
Caliente; 800-222-9162;
ojocalientesprings.com;
cabins from $159
TEN THOUSAND WAVES
3451 Hyde Park Rd., Santa
Fe; 505-992-5025; ten
tenthousandwaves.com;
doubles from $199
5 OZARKS GETAWAY
Off the highways and down in the hollers, you won't find a bad road in these parts
BY ANN KEYES
Just past Branson’s city limits, a network of back roads fans out through the forested hills and hollers of the Ozark Mountains. Waterfalls plunge from limestone bluffs; elk feed in shadow-cast valleys; and the Buffalo River’s pristine rapids give truth to Arkansas’s official nickname: the Natural State. Spots of civilization crop up here and there—rustic wood cabins, small-town cafés and shops ready to rent canoes and fishing gear. Smack in the middle of all this is a kitschy little town filled with fine art and big-city experiences. So pack your hiking boots—and a cocktail dress.
THE DRIVE:
Leaving Branson, you get a stunning parting view of Table Rock Lake before starting a 35-mile run west, skirting the state line. After a while the hills look more like mountains, and open fields give way to dense forests. Take a leisurely tour of this landscape-in-transition on the butterfly-filled trails of Dogwood Canyon (dogwoodcanyon.com). If you’re hungry, stop and pick some berries at nearby Persimmon Hill Farm, or just sit a spell and marvel at its rows of bounty (persimmonhill.com).
After a sharp turn south on Route 23 you’ll cross into Arkansas, and shortly find yourself amid the Victorian houses and antiques shops of Eureka Springs. People once flocked here for the mineral springs, but today this artists’ enclave draws second-home owners and honeymooners. Just outside town is the spectacular Thorncrown Chapel, a towering, thin latticework of timber trusses and glass walls that provide a quiet refuge with heavenly views of the hardwood forest (thorncrown.com). After walking the town’s steep streets, splurge on the pork shank or scallops at Rogue’s Manor (124 Spring St.; 479-253-4911; dinner for two, $88).
Heading east, a 45-mile stretch of hairpin twists and turns will take you through a region full of natural wonders. (A good map that includes smaller country roads is strongly recommended.) Start by hitting one of the superb hiking trails in the nationally protected Ponca and Upper Buffalo wilderness areas. At Lost Valley, massive stone forms offer hours of exploring. If Clark Creek is flowing, Eden Falls is the prize at the end of the slippery three-mile round-trip stroll. (For details, visit the National Park Service website, nps.gov, or call 870-439-2502.) Just a stone’s throw south on Route 21, you’ll glimpse elk grazing at dusk and dawn in Boxley Valley.
When you need to fuel up, head east on Route 74 for fried chicken and cobbler at the Ozark Café in Jasper (870-446-2976). Canoeists should drive five miles north of Jasper to Pruitt Landing, a busy access point on the Buffalo National River where outfitters ferry vanloads of floaters and canoes. Pack a lunch, and spread a blanket on a wide gravel bar to watch the parade go by.
Continuing south takes you through the core of the Ozarks–St. Francis National Forest. Near Pelsor, mountain vistas give way to the multistory, mushroom-like configurations of Pedestal Rocks. To return, go back north toward Table Rock Lake through Harrison—or just explore your own route. After all, it’s rare to find a back road in these parts that’s not scenic.
STAY
RCI®-affiliated resorts north of Branson, MO, include:
LAKEWOOD RESORT,
Lake of the Ozarks, MO
THE PINES AT TREETOP CONDOMINIUMS,
Lake of the Ozarks, MO
For more information, visit RCI.com or call
Weeks: 800-338-7777
Points: 877-968-7476
NON-RCI-AFFILIATED OZARKS HOTELS:
BASIN PARK HOTEL
12 Spring St., Eureka Springs,
AR; 877-643-4972; basinpark.com;
doubles from $93
OZARK BLUFF DWELLERS
CABINS
800-448-2218; ozarkbluffdwellers.com;
from $135, two-night minimum
BUFFALO NATIONAL RIVER
CAMPGROUNDS
The National Park Service
lists campgrounds throughout
the park. 870-439-2502;
nps.gov/buff