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Destination: Paris Bistros
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You don’t have to leave the capital to take a culinary tour of France
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BY CLARK MITCHELL
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| The Eiffel Tower, seen from the Pont Alexandre III, a bridge that spans the Seine; inside Aux Lyonnais, a restaurant in the Marais district, where you'll find wood paneling and floral patterned moldings, as well as 19th-century light fixtures. |
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It's safe to say that food is a highlight of any trip to Paris. Countless bistros around the city specialize in the cuisines of France’s various regions. For a sampling, we've rounded up five of the best (and most atmospheric) places in Paris to try dishes from Lyon, Alsace, Normandy, the South of France and the French Alps.
A CLASSIC GEM
One dinner at Aux Lyonnais will demonstrate why the southeastern city of Lyon is often called the gastronomic capital of France. This 1890s restaurant near the opera is part of the Alain Ducasse empire. The look is classic—globe lamps, potted palms, walls adorned with antique tiles—and so is the food. Start with pike dumplings (among the best in Paris) and move on to parsleyed calf's liver, crayfish in herbed butter and kirsch soufflé.
32 Rue St. Marc, 2nd Arron.; 33-1-42-96-65-04; auxlyonnais.com; dinner for two, $135*
ALSATIAN FEAST
Chez Jenny, also in the Marais, is a big, boisterous place serving the German-inflected dishes of Alsace, in the northwestern part of France. Diners feast on fragrant choucroute garnie (sauerkraut piled high with smoked pork) accompanied by a Gewürztraminer or Riesling from the slopes of the Altenberg, in Alsace. Another must-try: the traditional flammekueche, a thin tart spread with crème fraîche, caramelized onions and crisp bacon. You’ll probably need a digestif at the end. Thankfully, Chez Jenny has a good selection of Alsatian eaux-de-vie, in flavors like cherry, raspberry, pear and plum.
39 Blvd. du Temple, 3rd Arron.; 33-1-44-54-39-00; chez-jenny.com (French only); dinner for two, $120
FRUITS DE MER
At L’Ecailler du Bistrot, in the eastern 11th arrondissement, get a taste of the seaside provinces of Brittany and Normandy. The cold seafood on the plateaux de fruits de mer may include oysters, razor clams, winkles, tiny shrimp and lobster. The room’s decor will help transport you to the French coast: rich nautical woodwork, sea-themed mosaics and intricate model yachts on the walls.
22 Rue Paul Bert, 11th Arron.; 33-1-43-72-76-77; no website; dinner for two, $200
A TASTE OF LA BELLE EPOQUE
You’ll feel as if you’d traveled to the south-central province of Auvergne when you dine at Le Bistrot du Peintre. It looks straight out of the early 1900s, full of carved wood, ornate paintings, small tables for two or four—and not a tourist in sight. This is the place to go for duck confit (leg of duck poached for hours in its own fat, broiled and served crisp, with even crispier potatoes).
116 Ave. Ledru Rollin, 11th Arron.; 33-1-47-00-34-39; bistrotdupeintre.com; dinner for two, $75
GET CHEESY
Savoy, France’s Alpine province, shares many of the specialties of neighboring Switzerland. For raclette, a dish of melted cheese scraped onto tiny potatoes, or a vat of fondue your party can share, visit L'Étoile du Berger Savoyarde, in the centrally located fifth arrondissement. This tiny, cozy spot isn’t as well known as the other restaurants on this list, but it’s just as special. Consider it our little insider tip for you.
42 Rue de la Montagne, 5th Arron.; 33-1-43-26-38-87; specialites-savoyardes-paris.com (French only); dinner for two, $80
*Meal prices have been converted to U.S. dollars and do not include drinks, tax or tip.
NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip.
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Published: November 2, 2011
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Photos: Stephane Querbes/Paris Tourist Office; Frédéric Vasseur
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