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Destination: Otherworldly Everglades
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Escape to a land of alligators, mangrove thickets and a dizzying multitude of birds. Oh, and watch out for the skunk apes
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BY BOB PAYNE | PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRIS M. ROGERS
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| Mangroves seen on the way to Everglades City; an Ivey House kayak trip; a baby gator at Coopertown, which also offers airboat rides. |
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At every other national park in America, it is the geology that most attracts visitors—the peaks of Denali, the gorges of the Grand Canyon. But in Everglades National Park, where the highest natural elevation is eight feet, you come for the biology.
You find it in a river of grass that sometimes stands higher than a person wearing a hat with a feather in it. And in long-legged snowy egrets whose white hue tricks the tiny fish into mistaking them for clouds. And in six-foot-long alligators which—be warned—only want you to think they’re sleeping. (You might also see crocodiles; the Everglades is the only place in the world where the two species coexist.)
Much of the 1.5 million-acre park, which covers the southern tip of Florida, is a trackless wilderness of saw-grass prairie, coastal mangroves and the island-sprinkled shallows of Florida Bay. But biological drama is often only steps away, especially in the dry season, December through April. That’s when many creatures in search of water are migrating toward the man-made canals that line the park’s few roads.
LAY OF THE LAND
Unless you plan on camping, there are no accommodations in the park. Flamingo Lodge used to be the only place to stay, at the Flamingo Visitors Center on Florida Bay, but it was destroyed by Hurricanes Katrina and Wilma in 2005. Yet distances are short enough that you can get a good feel of the area in day trips, either from Miami, Fort Lauderdale or the Palm Beaches, on the east coast, or from Marco Island or Naples, on the west. For a more leisurely visit, overnight in Homestead or Florida City, near the park’s main entrance, or Everglades City, on the Gulf Coast.
A park visit is most easily divided into three segments: the road from Homestead and Florida City to Flamingo; the Tamiami Trail, or U.S. 41, which for part of its length runs along the park’s northern border; and the Everglades City area, a gateway to the watery world of the Ten Thousand Islands. The park entrance fee, $10 per private vehicle, is good at any entrance for seven consecutive days.
THE ROAD TO FLAMINGO
Just a few miles east of the main park entrance, Homestead and Florida City are agricultural communities surrounded by bean, squash and tomato fields, orchid growers and roadside farm stands. The best known stand, Robert Is Here, specializes in tropical fruits (19200 S.W. 344th St., Homestead; 305-246-1592; robertishere.com). Fortify yourself for the journey ahead with milkshakes made with Key lime, mango, passion fruit, coconut, papaya, banana and more.
On the way to the park you’ll pass near the Everglades Alligator Farm (40351 S.W. 192 Ave., Homestead; 305-247-2628; everglades.com). Home to more than 2,000 of the oversize reptiles, it’s a good place to stop if high water in the park has allowed wildlife to slip away from the man-made canals—or if you prefer something more between you and your gator than a few feet of pond water. Like most of the operations bordering the park, it offers a wildlife show that includes alligator “wrestling” and a restaurant where you can sample alligator tail, usually in the form of deep-fried nuggets that, yes, taste like that other type of nugget. But the main activity is airboat rides—which is something you’ll have to make your own decision about. These flat-bottomed craft, powered by airplane-like propellers, are banned from most of the park for being environmentally destructive. Yet many companies offer airboat rides along the park’s boundaries, and the thrill of flying across the marshes in what sounds like a Daytona 500 stock car seems to be one that few can resist (shows and airboat ride, $23 adults, $15.50 children 4-11).
From the park entrance to Flamingo are 38 miles of two-lane blacktop punctuated by the occasional trailhead, picnic area or observation point. Just
a mile past the entrance is the turnoff for Royal Palm Hammock, a wildlife area whose 0.8-mile Anhinga Trail, across freshwater marsh, is one of the best walks in the park. The cormorants and anhingas here are about as camera-cooperative
as any winged creature could be, and you’ll forever after have an image to go with the expression “up to your elbows in alligators.”
Back on the road to Flamingo, you’ll find that just about any of the ponds, depending on the season and time of day, are good for birding and for launching
a canoe into the park’s watery trails. You can rent canoes ($22 for four hours; 239-695-3101; evergladesnationalparkboattoursflamingo.com) at the marina
at Flamingo, which also has kayaks, skiffs, houseboats, bicycles and big-boat tours.
Since the lodge was destroyed, Flamingo has become far quieter than it once
was. But campers and day visitors still come here for the marina store and
a small café—and views out onto Florida Bay that will have you dreaming of losing yourself among the islands.
TREKKING THE TAMIAMI TRAIL
Officially it’s U.S. 41; “Tamiami” comes from the two cities it connects, Tampa and Miami. The highway isn’t within the park boundaries, but you’ll see plenty of airboats and alligators along the 70 miles that run from the Florida Turnpike in the east to the turnoff for Everglades City in the west. And you’ll get a glimpse of the old ways (beadwork and basket weaving) and new (casino gambling) of the area’s original inhabitants, the Miccosukee Indians. The casino, where limos are pulled up out front, is six miles west of the turnpike at the Miccosukee Resort. If you drive 15 miles more to mile marker 70, you’ll find the Miccosukee Indian Museum and the tribe’s airboat rides ($16 for a half hour). The restaurant here serves both American and Native American standards, including hamburgers and fry bread. (Park entrance $8 adults, $5 children 6-12; 305-552-8365; miccosukee.com.)
Just before Miccosukee Indian Village you’ll see a string of tour operators.
One of the oldest, Coopertown, has been serving up airboat rides and such Everglades fare as alligator, frog’s legs and catfish since 1945 (305-226-6048; coopertownairboats.com; rides $22 adults, $11 children 7-11; lunch for two, $20). Also just before the village is the turnoff for Shark Valley, which is in the national park. Cars aren’t allowed on its paved 15-mile loop trail, so walk or rent a bike ($7.50 per hour), making sure to bring water. Or if you don’t relish a confrontation with the occasional gator in the middle of the road, try the two-hour tram tour, which runs frequently (305-221-8455; sharkvalleytramtours.com; $18 adults, $12 children 3-12).
The western half of the Trail goes through the beautiful Big Cypress National Preserve, but other than that there’s little to slow you down on the rest of the drive to Everglades City. But do make a quick stop at the Skunk Ape Research Headquarters, where Dave Shealy, a true believer in these mythical half-man, half-beast swamp creatures, has a few photos to show you, along with a fine collection of Skunk Ape shot glasses and T-shirts (40904 Tamiami Trail E., Ochopee; 239-695-2275; skunkape.info).
EVERGLADES CITY AREA
Tiny Everglades City and even tinier Chokoloskee, which lies just beyond it,
are sleepy fishing communities with a once-turbulent, frontier-style past, some
of it recounted in Peter Matthiessen’s book Shadow Country. From either community, there’s no road into the park, which here is largely mangrove wilderness that stretches 99 miles down the coast to Flamingo. Boats are the way to get in, either from the park’s Gulf Coast Visitor Center on the Chokoloskee Causeway, where boat tours are offered (239-695-2591; evergladesnationalparkboattoursgulfcoast.com; $27 adults, $14 children 5-12) or through any number of operators along the Tamiami Trail.
Everglades Rentals & Eco Adventures offers paddle excursions through tunnels of mangroves (239-695-3299; evergladesadventures.com; $124 per person). It’s based at the Ivey House, an inn right in Everglades City. Another popular option is the powerboat-assisted kayak tours with Everglades Area Tours (238 Mamie St., Chokoloskee; 239-695-3633; evergladesareatours.com; $140 adults). The boat takes you deep into the glades, where you then set off to explore in individual kayaks.
To tie Everglades City’s past with its present, be sure to visit the Museum
of the Everglades (105 W. Broadway; 239-695-0008; evergladesmuseum.org), housed in a building that opened in 1927 as a laundry for the nearby Rod & Gun Club. The club is now a public lodging, with a polished-cypress dining room that exudes the elegance of times gone by (200 Broadway; 239-695-2101; evergladesrodandgun.com). You can now enjoy a place once open only to U.S. presidents and other famous and wealthy guests.
STAY
RCI affiliated resorts near the Everglades include:
VACATION VILLAGE AT BONAVENTURE
One, two, and three-bedroom units near great restaurants, family entertainment and world-class shopping. 16461 Racquet Club Rd., Weston
Member Reviews:
“Close to Everglades National Park, Miami, Fort Lauderdale, and the beautiful Florida Keys. Excellent facilities—large pools, beautiful landscaping and many activities.”
“We loved the fact that we had two pools to choose from on either side
of our building.”
VACATION VILLAGE AT WESTON
On-site golf and tennis, and entertainment in Fort Lauderdale, just 25 miles away. 16461 Racquet Club Rd., Weston
Member Reviews:
“There were plenty of lounge chairs by the pool for a comfortable stay. I would recommend this resort to anyone and will definitely be back.”
“Quiet and safe area. Lester’s Diner had good food for reasonable prices.”
MIZNER PLACE
Includes the Cliff Drysdale Tennis Center plus golf, spa and pool facilities. 1775 Bonaventure Blvd., Weston
Member Reviews:
“We visited all the shops and had a wonderful dinner at the Japanese Inn at a reasonable price. We spent days at the Fort Lauderdale beach and had great drinks and lunches there.”
“It seems that the staff is only more professional, responsive and first-rate every time we come.”
LEHIGH RESORT CLUB
An hour from Sanibel Island and Fort Myers Beach, with a beautiful golf course and amenities that include tennis, miniature golf and picnic areas with grills. 231 Joel Blvd., Lehigh Acres
Member Reviews:
“From the moment we arrived, we were treated with the utmost courtesy. Employees were very helpful and accommodating.”
“The guests come for the fun and the laid-back atmosphere. People talk to others, young and old.”
For complete member reviews (as member reviews have been condensed) and additional resort listings, visit RCI.com or call Weeks: 800-338-7777 or Points: 877-968-7476. Club Members, please call your specific Club or RCI telephone number.
Non-RCI affiliated resorts:
RITZ-CARLTON KEY BISCAYNE
White sand luxury about an hour from the park’s entrance. 455 Grand Bay Dr., Key Biscayne; 305-365-4500; ritzcarlton.com; doubles from $259 per night
REDLAND HOTEL
A bit of history, and easy access to the national park. 5 S. Flagler Ave., Homestead; 800-595-1904; redlandhotel.com; doubles from $89 per night
MICCOSUKEE RESORT & GAMING
Shades of Las Vegas, at the eastern end of the Tamiami Trail. 500 S.W. 177th Ave., Miami; 877-242-6464; miccosukeeresort.com; doubles from $140 per night
IVEY HOUSE
Basic, but with a screened-in courtyard pool. 107 Camellia St., Everglades City; 877-567-0679; iveyhouse.com; doubles from $74 per night
NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip.
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Published: Winter 2011-2012
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