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Destination: No Leaf Unturned
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As the days turn cool and the nights crisp in the Berkshire Hills of western Massachusetts, the progression of fall foliage takes on the role of performance art. These four drives show off the best views
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BY BOB PAYNE
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| The Library at Wheatleigh; the Berkshires Hills, alive with fall color; Guido's Fresh Marketplace, in Great Barrington. |
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Leaves are not the only autumn attraction in the Berkshires, of course. Hiking trails and highways follow routes first walked by Native Americans. Towns look, not coincidentally, as if they were the settings for paintings by Norman Rockwell. And travelers find sustenance at the tables of some of the most elegant country inns in America. Yet trumping all the man-made entertainments is the beauty of the landscape, a rolling terrain of wooded hills and valleys ablaze with vivid shades of yellow, orange, red and brown.
Regular visitors to the Berkshires, which are only a few hours’ drive from either Boston or New York City, will already have their favorite highways and backroads. But for first-timers we’ve mapped out four routes that show off many of the area’s natural attractions. We’ve also picked out a few things to do after you’ve had your fill of leaves.
Peak color is hard to forecast, although any number of websites, including the Weather Channel’s weather.com, will try. The brightest hues usually appear in early October—which explains why resident Herman Melville, of whale fame, named one elevation October Mountain.
Drive 1
Great Barrington — South Egremont — Bash Bish Falls — New York Rte. 22 North — West Stockbridge
Bash Bish Falls, in the extreme southwest corner of Massachusetts, is the state’s highest waterfall, and the walk to it is a leaf-carpeted stroll. But the real point of this loop is to witness the contrast between Berkshires past and present. A hundred years ago, much of the forest here was farmland, which regenerated itself as farmers either went to work in the nearby factories (now themselves abandoned) or moved to the Midwest, which has more easily tilled soil. You can see how sharp the contrast is during the drive north on Route 22, in New York State, through open farm country, the Berkshires visible just to the east.
The most southerly of the principal Berkshires towns, Great Barrington is a good place to grab a bite before heading out. The wood-fired-oven pizza at Baba Louie’s restaurant has a sourdough crust from the Berkshire Mountain Bakery (see drive 4). Or you can assemble a picnic at Guido’s Fresh Marketplace (760 S. Main St.), a Berkshires institution.
Distance 47 miles
Route From Great Barrington, 4 mi. on Rte. 41 S to Mt. Washington Rd., on right, just past split with Rte. 23. Follow signs 10 mi. to trailhead at Bash Bish Falls. From Bash Bish Falls, Rte. 344 2 mi. west to Rte. 22 N, in Copake Falls, NY; 18 mi. to Rte. 102 E; 3 mi. on Rte. 102 E to Rte. 41 S; 10 mi. to Great Barrington.
Drive 2
Williamstown — North Adams — Mount Greylock
Begin and end in Williamstown, home of Williams College, one of the nation’s best undergraduate schools and certainly one of the prettiest on a fall day. Round out your cultural quotient at the Sterling & Francine Clark Art Institute (clarkart.edu), known for its outstanding collection of French impressionists, Old Masters and American artists. The Chef’s Hat restaurant, also in Williamstown, serves lunch, but it’s better for breakfast if you’re craving turnip muffins.
The highlight of this route is the Mount Greylock Scenic Byway, whose hairpin turns will bring you to the highest point in Massachusetts, from which you can see five states and every gradation of fall color. Each Columbus Day, hundreds of hikers do the Mount Greylock Ramble (celebrateadams.com), a tough climb to the 3,491-foot summit. (That’s why most people drive.) However you reach the top, treat yourself to the views and a meal at ’30s-style Bascom Lodge.
Distance 40 miles
Route From Williamstown, Rte. 2 E 5 mi. At Rte. 8 S, turn right almost immediately onto Mt. Greylock Scenic Byway: follow it 18 mi. Rte. 7 N 17 mi. to Williamstown. Alternatively, Rte. 7 S 11 mi. to Lenox.
Drive 3
North Adams — Mohawk Trail — Savoy
The Mohawk Trail is one of the busiest Berkshires routes, but the autumn panoramas, especially from the West Summit, make it worth the traffic. And here’s a secret: The loop back, beginning with Route 8A, is equally pretty and little visited. Begin and end in North Adams, a left-for-dead factory town that is reviving itself through such efforts as the Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Art (massmoca.org). MASS MoCA’s 120,000 square feet of gallery space, in an old factory building, is almost as interesting as the art.
Near the end of the loop, stop in Adams for a walk on the Ashuwillticook Rail Trail, an old rail bed that’s now a paved pedestrian and bike way. Stretch your legs as you scuff through the leaves, and your tongue as you practice pronouncing ash-oo-WILL-ti-cook. The trail starts at the Berkshire Visitors Bureau, on Hoosac Street. For a taste of the old North Adams, grab a dog at Jack’s Hot Dog Stand, a family-owned hole-in-the-wall that goes back to 1917.
Distance 47 miles
Route From North Adams, Rte. 2 (the Mohawk Trail) E 18 mi.; Rte. 8A S 10 mi.; Rte. 116 W 12 mi.; Rte. 8 N 7 mi. to North Adams.
Drive 4
Lenox — Lee — Otis — Great Barrington — Stockbridge
This drive has a good mix of towns with historic houses, steepled churches and village greens. But a favorite section in the fall is Route 183 beside the Housatonic River, where the water reflects the leaves.
On 183, visit the Berkshire Mountain Bakery (367 Park St., Housatonic). It supplies loaves to gourmet restaurants throughout western Massachusetts and Connecticut. Buy some for yourself: hand-shaped, naturally leavened and fresh out of the oven. Farther along, visit the Norman Rockwell Museum (nrm.org), whose collection includes the artist’s famous Saturday Evening Post covers.
You need a U-Haul full of money to stay at the elegant Wheatleigh, in Lenox, but if you treat yourself to lunch you’ll need only a suitcaseful—and you’ll be happy you spent it. More reasonable is Once Upon a Table, a delightful Stockbridge bistro that’s seldom crowded.
Work off lunch with a climb at Monument Mountain (zip down Route 7, between Stockbridge and Great Barrington). When Herman Melville and Nathaniel Hawthorne did this three-mile hike in 1850, they had time to hash out some plot points of what would become Moby-Dick. The views, as Melville discovered, are that inspiring.
Distance 50 miles
Route From Lenox town center, Rte. 183 N to Rte. 7 S.; mi. to Rte. 20 E; 11 mi. to Rte. 8 S; 5.5 mi. to Rte. 23 W; 16 mi. to Rte. 7 N; 1 mi. to Rte. 183 N; 14 mi. to Lenox.
EAT
Baba Louie’s 286 Main St., Great Barrington; 413-528-8100; lunch for two, $17*
Bascom Lodge Atop Mount Greylock; 413-743-1591; lunch for two, $17
The Chef’s Hat 905 Simonds Rd.; Williamstown; 413-458-5120; breakfast for two, $11
Jack’s Hot Dog Stand 12 Eagle St., North Adams; 413-664-9006; lunch for two, $5
The Library Wheatleigh; Hawthorne Rd., Lenox; 413-637-0610; lunch for two, $50
Once Upon a Table 36 Main St., Stockbridge; 413-298-3870; lunch for two, $18
* Meal prices do not include drinks, tax or tip.
STAY
RCI affiliated resorts in the Berkshires include:
Vacation Village in the Berkshires 6057
Hiking, biking, fishing and horseback riding are some of the activities guests can enjoy in this beautiful and historic area. 276 Brodie Mountain Rd., Hancock
Member Reviews:
“The local restaurants are great.”
“Would definitely go again.”
Wyndham Bentley Brook I 4313 Indoor and outdoor pools, hot tubs, tennis courts, fitness centers, sauna and free Wi-Fi. Located at the base of Jiminy Peak. One Corey Rd., Hancock
Member Reviews:
“Quiet in the fall. The scenery was lovely."
“Many things to visit in the area.”
Silverleaf’s Oak N’ Spruce Resort 1243
On-site amenities include indoor and outdoor pools, sauna, Jacuzzi, live entertainment and an 18-hole mini-golf course. 190 Meadow St., South Lee
Member Reviews:
“Clean and well furnished. Well-supplied kitchen.”
“Beautiful location in the mountains.”
Wyndham Bentley Brook II 7819 The location on Jiminy Peak allows access to plenty of activities and a vast array of cultural and historical attractions. One Corey Rd., Hancock
Member Review:
“The area was beautiful. We came for fall colors and found them at their peak.”
For complete member reviews (as member reviews have been condensed) and additional resort listings, visit RCI.com
or call 800-338-7777 (Weeks) or 877-968-7476 (Points). Club Members, please call your specific Club or RCI telephone number.
Non-RCI affiliated resorts:
Porches Inn
Old row houses converted to stylish accommodations. 231 River St., North Adams; 413-664-0400; porches.com; doubles from $130 per night
1896 House Inn & Country Lodgings
Cozy inn in a serene setting. 910 Cold Spring Rd., Rte. 7, Williamstown; 413-458-1896; 1896house.com; doubles from $87 per night
Windflower B&B
Classic B&B in a quiet area. 684 S. Egremont Rd., Great Barrington; 413-528-2720; windflowerinn.com; doubles from $125 per night
Wheatleigh
French country-style château overlooking broad Berkshires vistas. Hawthorne Rd., Lenox; 413-637-0610; wheatleigh.com; doubles from $715 per night
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Published: Fall 2012
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Photos: Pamela Ashley Pasco(2); iStockphoto (middle)
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