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Destination: Myrtle Beach Bounty
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Tame Myrtle Beach’s array of enjoyments with a game plan
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BY MELISSA BIGNER
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The pier at Myrtle Beach State Park.
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As you cruise down Kings Highway in Myrtle Beach, South Carolina, you’ll pass buffet barn after barn, each with a sign shouting “170 items!”, “150 items!” or “200 items!” The owners hope that diners will rush in from nearby beaches to load up on barbecue, fried seafood, “chicken bog” and piping hot hushpuppies. These Southern-flavored all-you-can-eats are kitschily entertaining, rather tasty and a pretty good deal.
The same can be said of this coastal portion of the Palmetto State. There are so many different things to sample in the Myrtle Beach area—miniature golf, spas, musical revues, shag dancing, outlet shopping, amusement parks, beachcombing—that you might feel as if you’re tackling a monster buffet. So pick up a plate, decide what you’re craving and see how much you can pile on, given your limits. Here’s the best of all Myrtle Beach has to offer.
WELCOME TO THE GRAND STRAND Myrtle Beach is the main hub of what’s known as the Grand Strand, some 60 miles of shoreline, small towns and strip malls, running from Little River at the North Carolina border southward to Georgetown. Towards the southern end is Pawleys Island, which became a warm-weather getaway back in the 1700s for plantation owners seeking cool beach breezes. In the same century, pirates (like Edward Teach, a.k.a. Blackbeard) hid out in the coves, barrier islands and marshes around Little River. One hundred years later, Civil War blockade runners did the same thing. All along this stretch of coast, miles of fine sand, dunes fringed in sea oats, and ragged maritime forests rife with wax myrtles and live oaks are set off by the everchanging blues of the Atlantic Ocean. At the turn of the last century, developer F.G. Burroughs and his sons capitalized on the area’s appeal by building a railroad that barreled into Myrtle Beach.
Decade by decade, Myrtle Beach blossomed. The first golf resort and the waterfront Pavilion opened in the 1920s. By 1950, the rebuilt Pavilion had its own lavish carousel. Soon an 11-acre, Coney Island–flavored park had sprung up, with sweets shops, hot dog joints, soda fountains, ice creameries and attractions (miniature golf, Ferris wheels and bumper cars) that stretched along Ocean Boulevard. Flat-roofed motels sprouting giant cement pelicans, shells and the like were joined by highrise resorts. And beachfront bars were crowded with people doing the “shag,” a Lowcountry dance in which partners hold one hand, then slip-slide across the floor. And that free hand? Well, you’ve got to hold your drink, now, don’t you?
PAST MEETS PRESENT Today, Myrtle Beach is transitioning into a carnival of a different sort. Yes, the beaches are still beautiful, but now the buildings stand 20-plus stories high and are squeezed shoulder-to-shoulder along Ocean Boulevard. Resorts have indoor water parks and spas. The old Pavilion is gone, but there’s a new, mile-long boardwalk (undergoing major reconstruction, to be completed this summer). Many of the mid-century motels have been refreshed, and their old-time cement accessories now hold vintage appeal.
Inland, a former Air Force Base has been refashioned as a shopping hub/neighborhood called the Market Common (marketcommonmb.com), where you can get a superb steak at Divine Prime, walk or bike Valor Park, or check out the sales in stores like Anthropologie and Pottery Barn. At the entertainment complex Broadway at the Beach (broadwayatthebeach.com), Ripley’s Aquarium draws crowds to its walk-through tank tunnel and baby animal exhibit, and MagiQuest fulfills kids’ Harry Potter dreams with interactive wand play. The Carolina Opry (thecarolinaopry.com), the first of the revue-style shows in the area, won the Governor’s Cup for the state’s most outstanding tourism attraction a while back. And there are now more than 100 highly ranked golf courses.
In the old days, things were a little wilder here. In recent years, however, reinforced helmet laws and noise ordinances have tamped down “Bike Week,” and stricter decorum and rental policies inhibit the former spring break rowdiness. These days, Myrtle Beach is showing its mainstream persona year-round, and adding affordable luxuries to the picture. Maybe that explains the 14 million-plus visitors who appear annually.
PLAY
From toddler to tween to retiree, there’s a fun park or miniature golf haven here for everyone. Rollercoaster fans hit Freestyle Music Park (2950 Backstage Blvd.; 843-236-7625; freestylemusicpark.com) while aquatic types tackle the slides at Wild Water & Wheels (910 Hwy. 17 S.; 843-238-3787; wild-water.com). Engine hounds race carts at Nascar Speedpark (820 21st Ave. N. Ext.; 843-918-8725; nascarspeedpark.com) and miniature golfers take swings at Mutiny Bay (301 Hwy. 17 S.; 843-249-7844; moltenmountaingolf.com). For old-school versions of all the above, try the 44-year-old Family Kingdom (300 S. Ocean Blvd.; 843-626-3447; family-kingdom.com).
At the southernmost end of the new boardwalk, rent fishing poles and tackle from the 2nd Avenue Pier, a family-owned 74-year-old joint (110 N. Ocean Blvd.; 843-626-8480; secondavenuepier.com). The best biking is around the Market Common or Myrtle Beach State Park (4401 S. Kings Hwy.; 843-238-5325; southcarolinaparks.com). Joggers, walkers and beachcombers avoid the summertime crowds when they hit the shore between sunrise and breakfast.
Serious golfers do well at any of the area’s courses, but the ones that regularly snag accolades are Barefoot Resort’s Dye, Love and Fazio courses (866-638-4818; barefootgolf.com); Dunes (843-449-5236; dunesgolfandbeachclub.com); Tidewater (843-913-2424; tidewatergolf.com); and TPC of Myrtle Beach (843-357-3399; tpc-mb.com). While those courses can cost $100-plus a round, the well-loved Heritage Club (843-237-3424; legendsgolf.com), 40 minutes south on Pawleys Island, can run half as much.
Spa goers rave about the new getaway in the North Beach Plantation community—Cinzia, The Spa at North Beach Plantation (719 N. Beach Blvd.; 843-361-2772; thecinziaspa.com). With a saltwater whirlpool and internationally themed massages, it’s the region’s crown jewel.
And for a blast from the (distant) past, visit Medieval Times’ Myrtle Beach Castle (2904 Fantasy Way; medievaltimes.com) to watch swordplay, falconry and a jousting tournament over a roast-chicken feast.
SHOP
Find the best of the worst cheap T-shirts and snow globes at Wings or Eagles (various locations), or visit the grandfather of them all—the gargantuan, six-decade-old Gay Dolphin Gift Cove (916 N. Ocean Blvd.; 843-448-6550; gaydolphin.com) on the boardwalk. The area’s bounty of outlet malls keeps bargain hunters busy. The two Tanger Outlets malls alone include the likes of Banana Republic, Coach, Nine West and more (tangeroutlet.com). And the Coastal Grand Mall (coastalgrand.com), with more than 170 shops, is one of the state’s largest.
Anglers revel in the Bass Pro Shop (10177 N. Kings Hwy.; 843-361-4800; basspro.com). For a traditional Southern souvenir, check out the hand-tied hammocks at the Original Pawleys Island Rope Hammock (10880 Ocean Hwy., Pawleys Island; 843-237-9122; pawleys islandhammocks.com).
EAT
Buffets Myrtle Beach has a crazy number of huge buffets, most offering more than 150 different dishes. These massive dining rooms can easily handle the busloads of hungry visitors who descend on them before heading off to nearby attractions. Places like The Original Benjamin’s (9593 N. Kings Hwy.; 843-449-0821; dinner for two, $50,* go to originalbenjamins.com for discount coupon) and the Great American Steak & Buffet Co. (7904 N. Kings Hwy.; 843-449-0944; dinner for two, $28) offer local flavors like Calabash-style fried seafood and “chicken bog,” a Lowcountry dish of rice, chicken and sausage. The buffets are good value, but you might miss out on the nuances of Southern hospitality and home cooking.
Downhome Southern Barbecue joints like Big D’s Bar-B-Que Barn (350 George Bishop Pkwy.; 843-236-4666; buffet lunch for two, $20) or Little Pigs Bar-B-Q (6102 Frontage Rd.; 843-692-9774; lunch for two, $15) lack frills but serve up perfect pork platters, hushpuppies, and barbecue and slaw sandwiches. For a more traditional Southern supper, dine on crab casserole at one of the few waterfront dining spots on the beach: the 80-year-old Sea Captain’s House (3002 N. Ocean Blvd.; 843-448-8082; dinner for two, $40).
Bars Just south of Myrtle Beach is Murrells Inlet, lined with restaurants, bars and a marina (murrellsinletmarshwalk.com). Visitors stroll the marshwalk, carrying their drinks as they move from one spot to another to catch live music and enjoy straight-from-the-water appetizers. Sports lovers head to the Market Common’s upscale King Street Grille (3040 Howard Ave.; 843-238-3900; dinner for two, $30), while club goers check out the evening scene at Broadway at the Beach.
Fine Fare Epicureans no longer get short shrift on the Grand Strand. The best options are the mod SeaBlue for small plates that start at $10 (503 Hwy. 17 N.; 843-249-8800); Greg Norman’s Australian Grille for surf and turf (4930 Hwy. 17 S.; 843-361-0000; dinner for two, $65); and Pawleys Island’s High Hammock (10880 Ocean Hwy., Pawleys Island; 843-979-0300) for nouveau renditions of Southern seaside favorites like shrimp and grits and crab cakes. The Cypress Room at the Island Vista (6000 N. Ocean Blvd.; 800-854-5426; dinner for two, $50) serves upscale versions of downhome food and fresh catches; Divine Prime is the place for dressy steaks (1160 Farrow Pkwy.; 843-839-9790; dinner for two, $125).
Must-Tries If you have access to a kitchen, visit the Mr. Fish seafood market (3401 N. Kings Hwy.; 843-839-3474) for fresh-off-the-boat shrimp. The Crab Cake Lady (4525 Wesley Rd., Murrells Inlet; 843-651-0708) sells handpicked, hand-shaped crab cakes. Go to a Piggly Wiggly (various locations) to stock up on grits, ham hocks and peanuts for boiling. The farmers market sells fresh produce on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday. Finally, don’t miss the Sunday gospel brunch at perhaps the coolest joint in town—the House of Blues (4640 Hwy. 17 S.; 843-272-3000; houseofblues.com; brunch and show for two, $40).
*Prices cover a meal for two, not including drinks, tax or tip.
STAY
RCI-AFFILIATED RESORTS IN MYRTLE BEACH INCLUDE:
SHERATON BROADWAY PLANTATION Just four blocks from the beach, with indoor and outdoor pools, free miniature golf, sand volleyball, a lazy river and a seasonal pool bar. 3301 Robert Grissom Pkwy., Myrtle Beach
Member Reviews “Music always playing poolside.” “Broadway at the Beach is so close we even had teenagers walk to it.”
WYNDHAM OCEAN BOULEVARD Stay across the street from the beach, and enjoy the indoor and outdoor pools. Some units have four bedrooms. 410 S. Ocean Blvd., North Myrtle Beach
Member Reviews “Tower 4 has a really nice pool, two hot tubs, wading pool, and playground.” “Nice when you don’t want to be in the thick of things.”
HOLIDAY INN CLUB VACATIONS SOUTH BEACH RESORT On 16 landscaped acres just across from the beach, with a lazy river water ride, kid’s video room, and men’s and women’s saunas. The Breezes Beach Club offers private access to the beach and a pool. 3000 S. Ocean Blvd., Myrtle Beach
Member Reviews: “Great restaurant called Damon’s Grill, across the street overlooking the ocean.” “The kitchen had everything; appliances are new and had high-end features.”
PLANTATION RESORT VILLAS Three miles south of Myrtle Beach, and a mile from the ocean. The resort grounds are a veritable bird sanctuary, with Canadian geese, American woodcock and more; you can birdwatch while you relax by the pool or float down the lazy river. 1250 U.S. Hwy. 17 N., Surfside Beach
Member Reviews: “Close to the beach (which is quiet and family-friendly) with shuttle service.” “My daughter could wake up to baby geese and ducks in her backyard!”
PRESIDENTIAL VILLAS AT PLANTATION RESORT The villas share the amenities at Planta- tion Resort (above). 1250 U.S. Hwy. 17 N., Surfside Beach
Member Reviews: “We like Bubba’s Shack across the street from Surfside Beach.” “There’s a great water area with sprinklers, pouring barrels and a lazy river.”
For more information, including more member reviews, visit RCI.com or call Weeks: 800-338-7777 Points: 877-968-7476 Club Members, please call your specific Club or RCI telephone number.
NON-RCI-AFFILIATED RESORTS:
DUNES VILLAGE RESORT This top family resort scores big points for its indoor waterpark with adult-sized slides and a 250-foot lazy river. The beachfront location and pleasant rooms are winners, too. 5200 N. Ocean Blvd.; 877-828-2237; dunesvillage.com; from $105 per night
HAMPTON INN & SUITES OCEANFRONT A beachfront highrise that goes cottage style by offering suites with bunk beds and porthole windows. 1803 S. Ocean Blvd.; 877-946-6400; hamptoninnoceanfront.com; doubles from $110 per night
ANDERSON OCEAN CLUB & SPA This family-owned condo-hotel has immaculate suites, friendly service and a manicured pool area, though the beach is only steps away. The restaurant, Magnolia’s at 26th, uses produce from the family farm. 2600 N. Ocean Blvd.; 866-578-8494; oceanaresorts.com; doubles from $139 per night
MARINA INN AT GRANDE DUNES Not on the beach, but guests get suites with elegant décor and in-room spa services. Rent a WaveRunner or speed- boat, and golf on-site. 8121 Amalfi Pl.; 866-437-4113; marinainnatgrandedunes.com; doubles from $149 per night
NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip.
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Published: Spring 2010 Issue
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PHOTO: Myrtle Beach CVB
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