 |
 |
|
|
 |
|
Destination: Fort Lauderdale Update
|
|
This seaside Florida town has more to offer than frat-house-style spring break
|
|
BY TERRY WARD
|
|
 |
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
| Fort Lauderdale from above; yachts docked in the canal. |
|
|
|
When in Fort Lauderdale, it never takes long before you hear a reference to the city’s once apt (and recently reinterpreted) motto: “Where the Boys Are.” That 1960 movie about a gaggle of Midwestern college girls who came to Florida’s Gold Coast for unfettered fun inspired countless spring break pilgrimages to Fort Lauderdale.
And while the “Where the Boys Are” catchphrase still lives on in a new interpretation (Fort Lauderdale has emerged as one of the country’s top destinations for gay vacationers), a family-friendly vibe prevails on the city’s golden beaches and beyond.
Winter months see fewer visitors, even though temperatures hover around 75 degrees. A recent spate of luxury hotel openings has transformed a once-uninspired beach town into one of South Florida’s most sophisticated destinations.
These days, a more fitting mantra for Fort Lauderdale’s sun-spackled stretch of endless waterways (more than 300 navigable miles in total) would be “Where the Boats Are.” With 100 marinas and boatyards and more than 40,000 resident yachts, it makes sense that the city has also been dubbed the Venice of America. Wherever you find a perch along the waterfront, a wake will surely roll your way.
WATERY WAYS
The best way to get your feet wet is to hop on the Water Taxi (954-467-0008; watertaxi.com), which plies the Intracoastal Waterway and New River, making 13 stops from the Galleria Mall and Las Olas Boulevard to the Convention Center. The most impressive stretch of the Intracoastal is known as Millionaire’s Row: manicured properties with lavish mansions and yachts moored out front.
Ride the Water Taxi to the end of the line and Riverwalk (goriverwalk.com), which hosts the Urban Market every Saturday, selling everything from handmade soaps to Peruvian street food. The waterfront esplanade runs alongside several downtown highlights, including the Museum of Discovery & Science (401 S.W. 2nd St.; 954-467-6637; mods.org), home to an IMAX theater and the largest living Atlantic coral reef in a museum, and the Museum of Art Fort Lauderdale (1 E. Las Olas Blvd.; 954-525-5500; moaflnsu.org), displaying works by American Impressionists and visiting Latin American artists.
The Jungle Queen (954-462-5596; junglequeen.com) offers several fun family outings to explore the area’s waterways, with the requisite touch of kitsch that makes it a local institution. Every evening, the two-story riverboat leaves the Bahia Mar Beach Resort (801 Seabreeze Blvd.) on a tour of the river and canals, ending at a private riverside location where a buffet and alligator show are on the menu. It’s a sit-back-and-soak-it-all-in kind of affair, with the captain providing commentary along the way.
PEDALING AND DOG-PADDLING
For something less sedentary, rent a beach cruiser bike for a few hours to explore the two miles of promenade along the ocean (Fun Rentals, 239 Almond Ave.; 954-768-9020; funrentals.us). The showers every few blocks make a cool-off swim in the ocean all the more appealing.
Another prime place to take a dip is the W Fort Lauderdale hotel, where Sunday pool parties, open to the public, draw see-and-be-scenesters to what’s arguably Florida’s sexiest pool (in the hotel’s lobby, you can peer through portholes cut into the ceiling above for views into the pool).
Pedaling back south, turn west at the Las Olas Bridge to access the Finger Islands—narrow residential streets with names like Isle of Venice and Fiesta Way. Here canals that were dredged in the 1920s are lined with a patchwork of old Florida bungalows (disappearing fast) alongside enormous Spanish Mediterranean mansions.
Take a break at Colee Hammock Park (1500 Brickell Dr.), just off Las Olas Boulevard, where kids kick soccer balls and families picnic and strum guitars under banyan trees and rustling palms.
SHOPPING THE BOULEVARD
The city’s most sociable street, Las Olas Boulevard, is lined with establishments that range from diners and trendy restaurants to needlepoint shops and European couture. Seek out shops like Blue (617 E. Las Olas Blvd.; 954-763-2224), the outpost of Key West jewelry designer David Symons. His organic pieces are displayed alongside eclectic beach finery such as colorful sarongs from Kenya. During the 1970s, the owner of Moda Mario (820-822 E. Las Olas Blvd.; 954-467-3258; modamario.com) dressed the stars of Miami Vice. Nowadays, the real-life yacht set stop by for prêt-à-porter European clothing and hard-to-find brands for men and women. Celebrity of Las Olas (811 E. Las Olas Blvd.; 954-761-8875) is a sure bet for swimwear, with an ever-present sale rack of good buys. And follow the scent of molten chocolate to Kilwin’s (809 E. Las Olas Blvd.; 954-523-8338), an ice cream and candy shop whose peanut-brittle waffle cones take the cake.
If you’re visiting on a Sunday, be sure to hit the Gourmet Farmers Market (S.E. 12th Ave. at Las Olas Blvd.). Residents catch up on neighborhood news while browsing the handful of tented stalls. Though the range of products is small, the quality is high: The guacamole guy pounds his dip to order, with a mortar and pestle used by the indigenous people of Colombia. From Argentinean empanadas filled with ham and cheese to ceramics from Provence, the items for sale here are as diverse as Fort Lauderdale’s residents.
Tony Kantorski pulls his red pickup truck alongside the market every week. In the back are coolers holding grouper filets, Key West pink shrimp and a Florida favorite: stone crab claws that he’ll crack open for you with the back of his ice scoop and serve with a spot of lemony mustard sauce. You’ll get about six big claws for $10, a bargain compared to restaurant prices. It’s a high-life indulgence served in laid-back Florida fashion—much like Fort Lauderdale itself, these days.
EAT
STEAK 954
Have some surf with your turf at this
boutique steak house at the W Fort
Lauderdale hotel: tiraditos with red
snapper and lobster and crab ceviche star.
401 N. Fort Lauderdale Beach Blvd.;
954-414-8333; dinner for two, $125*
LA BONNE CREPE
Man-and-his-BFF crowd the pooch-
friendly patio at this breakfast and brunch
spot. 815 E. Las Olas Blvd.; 954-761-1515;
breakfast for two, $18
PELICAN LANDING
Take the Water Taxi to Hyatt Pier 66 to find
this second-story restaurant overlooking
the Intracoastal. Live music several nights
a week accompanies mahimahi burritos,
conch fritters and gourmet burgers.
2301 S.E. 17th St.; 954-525-6666;
dinner for two, $45
DA CAMPO OSTERIA
The open kitchen of Todd English’s
seductive Italian restaurant inside the
Il Lugano Suite Hotel dishes up handmade
pastas and possibly South Florida’s
finest appetizer—warm mozzarella served
with fig balsamico, prosciutto, spiced
walnuts and more. 3333 N.E. 32nd Ave.;
954-226-5002; dinner for two, $120
CHINA GRILL
Upscale Asian–inspired dishes are served
in a colorful bar and dining room at the
Hilton Fort Lauderdale Marina, overlooking
the Intracoastal Waterway. 1881 S.E. 17th
St.; 954-759-9950; dinner for two, $90
CHIMA BRAZILIAN STEAKHOUSE
Servers arrive tableside with skewers of
succulent churrascaria meat and seafood
at this Las Olas restaurant, a stylish take
on Brazilian rodizio. The prix-fixe menu
includes unlimited meats (filet mignon,
rib eye, lamb chops and more), a salad
bar and sides. 2400 E. Las Olas Blvd.;
954-712-0580; dinner for two, $100
H2O CAFÉ
Fronting A1A and the beach, the sidewalk
tables of this casual European–style café
are perfect for people-watching over
made-to-order guacamole, hearty Thai
steak salad or crab cake sandwiches.
101 S. Fort Lauderdale Beach Blvd.;
954-414-1024; lunch for two, $25
*Prices cover a meal for two without drinks,
tax or tip.
STAY
RCI-affiliated resorts in and around
Fort Lauderdale include:
FORT LAUDERDALE BEACH RESORT
A heated outdoor pool, hot tub and day
spa, a block from the beach and a short
walk to Hugh Taylor Birch State Park.
909 Breakers Ave., Fort Lauderdale
Member Reviews:
“From our 14th-story balcony you could
see the ocean, the Intracoastal and the
nighttime view of the city.”
“The short walk to the beach was a bonus.”
SILVER SEAS
Directly across from a long public beach,
you can lounge at the pool and enjoy the
sea views before heading out for dinner
and dancing at nearby restaurants and
bars. 101 N. Fort Lauderdale Beach Blvd.
Member Reviews:
“Live music, bars and good restaurants
within walking distance.”
“If you enjoy fishing, there are two
marinas offering reasonable party boat
rates or charter trips.”
COCONUT BAY RESORT
Guided weekday tours to the Everglades,
Key West, Miami and the Bahamas leave
directly from the resort. Or stick to dock
fishing at the resort, beach relaxation just
two blocks away or shopping nearby at
the upscale Galleria, the largest mall in
the county. 919-925 N. Birch Rd., Fort
Lauderdale
Member Reviews:
“Feels like an oasis in the middle of
the city.”
“Loved opening our curtains and looking
straight out onto the boats.”
HOLLYWOOD BEACH TOWER
Ten miles south of Fort Lauderdale and
20 miles north of Miami, this beachside
high-rise, right on the Hollywood
boardwalk, is a good launching point to
explore this stretch of Florida coastline.
301 Harrison St., Hollywood
Member Reviews:
“Very nice events going on at the resort
with hula night, etc.”
“Great farmers market right in back
of the hotel.”
“Bedroom and living room had a wall
of windows with an incredible view.”
ENCHANTED ISLE RESORT
A quick jaunt south of Fort Lauderdale,
this Hollywood resort is a convenient
location to explore the attractions of
southeastern Florida and take part
in year-round tennis, golf and bicycling.
Many restaurants, shopping malls and
nightclubs are in the area. 1601 S. Surf
Rd., Hollywood
Member Reviews:
“Free Wi-Fi in the unit.”
“Classic Old Florida beach—good for
people-watching, jogging, biking.”
For more information, including complete member reviews
(as member reviews have been condensed),
visit RCI.com or call
Weeks: 800-338-7777
Points: 877-968-7476
Club Members, please call your specific
Club or RCI telephone number.
NON-RCI-AFFILIATED RESORTS:
RITZ-CARLTON, FORT LAUDERDALE
You can’t beat this hotel’s ocean-liner-like
architecture and the sprawling pool with
180-degree ocean views. All 192 rooms
and suites have private balconies. The
spa has several ocean-inspired treatments.
1 N. Fort Lauderdale Beach Blvd.;
954-465-2300; ritzcarlton.com; oceanfront
doubles from $239 per night
HILTON FORT LAUDERDALE MARINA
This marina-front hotel is a fun alternative
to the beach. The 589 modern rooms,
most with furnished balconies, have floor-
to-ceiling windows and walk-in showers.
An enormous free-form pool is landscaped
with dozens of palms and has views of
the yachts that line the nearby canal.
The Water Taxi stops just out front.
1881 S.E. 17th St.; 954-463-4000;
fortlauderdalemarinahotel.com;
doubles from $143 per night
W FORT LAUDERDALE
There’s a high wow factor at this new
Starwood property, particularly at the
zero-entry pool that becomes an outdoor
party on Sundays with DJs spinning music.
The party continues at the Whiskey Blue
nightclub on the ground floor. The sleek,
modern rooms are all white and wood-toned;
balconies have beach views that you can
enjoy from oversized chaises. 401 N.
Fort Lauderdale Beach Blvd.; 954-414-8200;
wfortlauderdalehotel.com; doubles from
$159 per night
RIVERSIDE HOTEL
A historic hotel that dates to 1936,
in the heart of the Las Olas Boulevard
shopping district. Stay in the newer
tower for larger rooms and the best
canal and city views. The Tommy Bahama–
inspired décor is heavy on wicker furniture
and tropical floral patterns. You’re close
to shops, bars and restaurants, including
the hotel’s own Indigo restaurant, with
an appealing sidewalk terrace. 620 E. Las
Olas Blvd.; 954-467-0671; riversidehotel.com;
tower doubles from $190 per night
NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip.
|
|
|
|
Published: Winter 2010-2011
|
|
Photos: Corbis; GFLCVB
|
|
|