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Destination: Chasing History in Málaga
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Spain’s Costa del Sol is about as far south as you can get before you run out of Europe. It’s one of the Continent’s sunniest places—and Málaga is one of its oldest cities. Here, you’ll bump into history at every turn
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BY ANDY SYMINGTON | PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES BEDFORD
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Cured hams hang everywhere at Lo Güeno restaurant; Marqués de Larios, a pedestrian shopping street; the main room at the Casa Natal de Picasso.
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In Málaga, layer upon layer of the past brings visitors to the vibrant present of this Mediterranean port city. The walls built by its Phoenician founders lie beneath the 16th-century palace that now houses the museum devoted to Málaga’s most famous son, Pablo Picasso. Nearly three millennia of history can be explored around the pedestrian town center, the beating heart of the city.
Ancient Beginnings
After being founded by the Phoenicians in the eighth century BC, Málaga was ruled by the Carthaginians and the Romans. It was the Romans who built the beautifully located hillside amphitheater, during the rule of the emperor Augustus around the first century. The stone foundations of the stage building and much of the semicircular stepped seating have been partially excavated and can be seen even when the amphitheater is closed (8 Calle de Alcazabilla; free admission).
Just above the amphitheater is the city’s most impressive historic monument, the Alcazaba (2 Calle de Alcazabilla; admission, $3*). After conquering Spain in AD 711, the Moors ruled Málaga for nearly eight centuries. Part palace, part fortress, the Alcazaba is a lovely place to visit: It has huge fountains, jasmine-scented gardens and spectacular vistas of the town below and the turquoise waters of the port. Moorish arches and fragments of delicate plasterwork decorate the palace complex. Inside, visitors will find an archaeological display of pottery discovered at and around the site.
If you thought the views from here were good, stroll farther up the hill along a path shaded by carob trees to reach the Castillo de Gibralfaro (11 Camino Gibralfaro; admission, $3). This castle was built in the 14th century to defend the Alcazaba after artillery arrived on the European warfare scene. It was later modified by the Christian conquerors. There’s not a great deal on display, but the views are sensational. Have a drink on the terrace of the Parador de Málaga Gibralfaro hotel just below and gaze at your leisure.
The bathhouse, or hammam, was an important part of Moorish life. Little remains of Málaga’s original bathhouses, but you can still luxuriate after a long day of sightseeing in the relaxing ambience of El Hammam (13 Tomás de Cózar; 34 952-212-327; elhammam.com; standard session, $26). This re-created bathhouse, opulently decorated with tiles and Moorish lamps, has three steam rooms in which temperatures range from 86 to 104 degrees. Massage treatments are offered also. Book your visit in advance: To keep this place peaceful, admission is limited.
The One-Armed Lady
All this Moorish heritage raises the question, where’s the mosque? As in so many southern Spanish cities, the answer is, under the imposing cathedral, in this case La Catedral de la Encarnación (9 Calle de Molina Lario; admission, $7). Commissioned soon after Málaga was reconquered by Catholic monarchs in 1487, the cathedral was built over the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries by some of Spain’s finest Renaissance architects and sculptors. Today its nickname is the One-Armed Lady because of its lopsided appearance: The planned second bell tower was never erected. Ornate choir stalls and stained glass are highlights of the monumental interior, whose triple nave rises to a height of 148 feet. Side chapels hold a rich collection of religious paintings and sculpture.
Málaga’s Prodigious Son
Pablo Picasso was born in Málaga in 1881 and lived here until he was 10. His first home, now the Casa Natal de Picasso (15 Plaza de la Merced; fundacionpicasso.malaga.eu; admission, $1.35), is most interesting for Picasso’s ceramics and lithographs, though there’s also a selection of his parents’ personal belongings.
The big draw, however, is the Museo Picasso Málaga (8 Calle San Agustín; museopicassomalaga.org; admission, $8), a handsome palace where a large collection of the artist’s works is displayed. This is a prime opportunity to see the wide range of Picasso’s oeuvre in one place. The pieces are organized thematically, so you can easily appreciate how his portraiture, for example, changed over time. Many intimate portraits show those who were close to him, including a memorable one of Olga Khokhlova, the Ukrainian ballerina who would become his wife (Olga Khokhlova in Mantilla), and a sensitive depiction of his son (Portrait of Paulo With White Hat). Another shows his lover the French artist Françoise Gilot (Woman in Armchair). The excellent temporary exhibitions usually have Picasso or his contemporaries as a theme.
Snapshots of the Past
The outstanding new Museo Thyssen Málaga (10 Calle de la Compañía; carmenthyssenmalaga.org; admission, $8) focuses on 19th-century Spanish art. It was a turbulent time in Spain, but you wouldn’t know it from these romantic depictions of the idealized south. Gypsies, flamenco, Easter processions, lovers at window grilles, inns, mules, priests and bullfights: All the clichés are beautifully represented here.
A more realistic glimpse back in time is found at the Museo de Artes y Costumbres Populares (10 Paseo de Santa Isabel; 34-952-217-137; museoartespopulares.com; admission, $3). The 17th-century building, once an inn, has a central patio decked with flowers. On display are oil and wine presses, clothing, fishing equipment, farm tools and other objects of the everyday past.
Venerable Watering Holes
But Málaga’s history isn’t all monuments and museums. Taverns that were already old when Picasso was a lad can still be found in the central lanes. The city is famous for its sherry-like wines; order a seco (dry) or dulce (sweet).
The most atmospheric spot is the Antigua Casa de Guardia (18 Alameda Principal; 34-952-003-588), founded in 1840. Málagan wines are poured from barrels lined up behind the bar, and accompanied by boiled prawns. The bodega El Pimpi (62 Calle Granada; 34-952-225-403), in a former wine warehouse, is filled with bullfighting memorabilia, azulejo tiles and photos of famous visitors. Look for a young Sean Connery and local boy Antonio Banderas when he brought Melanie Griffith home to meet the parents. And for an after-dinner drink, don’t miss Puerta Oscura (5 Calle Molina Lario; 34-952-221-900). The elegant 19th-century décor speaks of bygone years.
After your drink, stroll along Muelle 1, the glitzy new shopping strip by the harbor. These days it’s doubtful that the Phoenicians would recognize their old port. While Málaga’s history is all around, the city isn’t tied to the past. Perhaps that’s because of the influences of successive civilizations—and, of course, a healthy dash of Picasso.
*Prices have been converted to U.S. dollars.
EAT
Lo Güeno
A cozy place with a variety of dishes displayed along the counter. 9 Calle de Marín García; 34-952-223-048; lunch for two, $40*
Atarazanas Market
A colorful food market entered through a Moorish arch. 10 Calle de las Atarazanas
José Carlos García
Typical Andalusian ingredients are given a shake-up with modern gastronomic techniques. Reservations essential. Plaza de la Capilla Muelle 1, Puerto de Málaga; 34-952-003-588; dinner for two, $140
Tintero II
Pescaíto frito (fried fish) is a Málagan specialty, and this spot on the beach is the place most famous for it. Waiters carry an array of plates out of the kitchen; grab any dish you like the look of. Playa del Dedo; 34-952-206-826; lunch for two, $40
La Rebaná
Both tapas bar and restaurant, this attractive split-level modern place, run by a friendly young chef, offers elaborate bar snacks and creative entrées.
4 Calle de Molina Lario; 34-952-608-534; dinner for two, $50
Mesón Astorga
This elegant neighborhood restaurant is your best bet for traditional Spanish cuisine made with high-quality produce. 11 Calle de Gerona; 34-952-346-832; dinner for two, $80
*Meal prices do not include drinks, tax or tip.
STAY
RCI affiliated resorts in and near Málaga include:
Crown Resorts at Club Calahonda 1878
Two swimming pools, gardens, rooftop sun deck, fitness area and sauna. Urbanización Sitio de Calahonda, Pueblo Jarales, Mijas-Costa
Member Review:
“Clean, recently refurbished rooms. The staff is friendly and efficient.”
ESC at Sunset Beach Club 8569
Located on the water’s edge near a marina. Fishing, dolphin-spotting and boat trips can be booked through the Leisure Desk. 5 Avda. del Sol, Benalmádena-Costa
Member Review:
“We really loved the region and the historic sites.”
Grangefield Oasis Club 3833
Just a few minutes’ drive from the beach, this resort has two outdoor pools, an indoor pool, kids’ club and more. Urbanización Riviera del Sol, Calle Topacio, Mijas-Costa
Member Review:
“Suitable for both couples and families.”
Heritage Resorts at Matchroom 1867
Adjoining the beautiful Mijas golf course, this resort has two swimming pools, a gym, Jacuzzi, sauna, restaurant and more. Urbanización Mijas Golf, Mijas-Costa
Member Review:
“Very pretty, with views of the mountains.”
Club la Costa at Marina del Sol 1409
Surrounded by beautiful gardens, with three restaurants and three bars. Urbanización Marina del Sol, Km. 206.5 Carr. de Cádiz, Mijas-Costa
Member Review:
“Short walk to the Mediterranean. Lots of pools.”
Crown Resorts at Club Marbella 2404
Within easy reach of restaurants, nightlife, golf and beaches. Urbanización Sitio de Calahonda, Calle Monte Paraíso, Mijas-Costa
Member Review:
“Everything in the whole resort was very, very clean.”
For complete member reviews (as member reviews have been condensed) and additional resort listings, visit RCI.com
or call 800-338-7777 (Weeks) or 877-968-7476 (Points). Club Members, please call your specific Club or RCI telephone number.
Non-RCI affiliated resorts:
Parador de Málaga Gibralfaro
Just below the castle, this sumptuous state-run hotel offers fabulous views over the city and Mediterranean. Camino de Gibralfaro; 34-952-221-902; parador.es; doubles from $245 per night
Vincci Selección Posada del Patio
This hotel combines history and Andalusian elegance with modern comforts. 7 Pasillo Santa Isabel; 34-951-001-020; vinccihoteles.com; doubles from $138 per night
Room Mate Larios
In the heart of the pedestrian center, this is an upbeat and trendy refit of a historic Málagan hotel. 2 Calle de Marqués de Larios; 34-952-222-200; room-matehotels.com; doubles from $131 per night
Hotel Molina Lario
A new, elegant hotel that is close to the cathedral and has excellent service. 22 Calle de Molina Lario; 34-952-062-002; hotelmolinalario.com; doubles from $132 per night
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Published: Fall 2012
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