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Web Exclusive: Cape Town Update
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How to do South Africa’s must-do destination right
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BY SHIRA LEVINE
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Cape Town, as seen from Table Mountain; the Imagenius boutique on shopper-friendly Long Street.
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Cape Town is undeniably South Africa’s most European-style city. This oceanside metropolis (pop. 3.5 million) lies between surfer-friendly beaches and the majestic sandstone bulwark of Table Mountain, and it offers a heady mix of commerce and culture. Starting on June 11, the city will host much of the World Cup—the first time soccer’s elite tournament is being held on African soil. For those who have scored seats to the games, or are simply enticed by Cape Town, here’s how to pass your time, from Long Street’s boutiques to the best oysters you’ll ever eat.
UNDER AFRICAN SKIES
Try to arrive during daylight hours, so you can watch the African sun as it softens over Cape Town, etching pink and orange streaks across the sky. The first thing you’ll notice is the city’s landmark, Table Mountain. The mass of clouds perpetually hovering above its flat top has been nicknamed “the tablecloth.” A three-kilometer hike will get you to the summit, but most visitors prefer the cable car, which whisks you up in five minutes to revel in 360-degree views of the city and sparkling bay.
SHOPPING ITINERARY
Tourists seeking African souvenirs tend to visit Greenmarket Square, one of the city’s oldest outdoor markets. But a better shopping destination is Long Street, whose adorable boutiques may have you dropping some serious rand. Check out items by young and established South African designers at MeMeMe (279 Long St.). Imagenius (117 Long St.) sells eclectic art and offbeat gift items, from ceramic accessories to delicate handmade jewelry and shabby-chic housewares. Pop into a shebeen (dive bar) on Long Street for a smooth Pinotage or a Castle Lager.
If you’re prepared to roam farther, drive 40 minutes south to the town of Kalk Bay, where trendy shops on Main Street sell locally made jewelry and clothing (look for India Jane and Mystic Rose). At lunchtime, head back to Cape Town for a meal at the Roundhouse, in a 1786 guardhouse in the Miami-esque suburb of Camps Bay (theroundhouserestaurant.com; lunch for two, $110*). Lunch might be eland carpaccio with pickled cranberry purée, followed by braised ox tongue. You can dine indoors for the white-tablecloth tasting menu, or outdoors in summer for a tapas picnic beneath the pomegranate trees.
BIVALVE ALERT
You might be surprised to learn that South Africa serves some of the best oysters found anywhere. At Wang Thai (on the Victoria & Albert Waterfront; wangthai.co.za; 021-421-8702), try Thai-style Namibian oysters—raw, with grilled onions. Gordon Ramsay’s Maze (One&Only Cape Town, Dock Rd.; 021-431-5222) does an epic flight of Saldanha, Namibian and Algoa Bay oysters—sweet and meaty, with hints of the African seas.
INDULGE OR EXPLORE?
Take your pick: Spend a day relaxing, or seek out wildlife adventure. If you vote to relax, book a tour with Roots Africa through the fertile valleys of the Cape Winelands (rootsafrica.co.za; full-day tours from $94). You’ll visit vineyards and wine cellars in Stellenbosch, and perhaps lunch at celebrity chef Reuben Riffle’s spot in Franschhoek (reubens.co.za)—try the prawn and grapefruit salad with pickled mango dressing. Be sure to have dinner at the Tasting Room, the restaurant at Le Quartier Francais resort, repeatedly named the best in Africa (16 Huguenot Rd., Franschhoek; lequartier.co.za; five-course dinner for two, $150). If you want to see both of South Africa’s extremes, Roots Africa can add on a morning tour of the city’s largest township, Khayelitsha, before you hit the vineyards.
Though Cape Town is a long way from the country’s legendary game reserves, you can still see wildlife nearby. In Gansbaai, a fishing village on the Western Cape (two hours from Cape Town), you can take a thrilling shark-cage dive with Marine Dynamics (sharkwatchsa.com; from $186) if you enjoy such high risk adventures. It’s an incredible experience to be surrounded by Great Whites, even though they appear surprisingly docile. If you get seasick, familiarize yourself with both sides of the boat—shark alley and barf alley.
On the drive back, make a quick detour to see the colony of clumsy but charming African penguins at Boulders Beach. Or make the 45-minute drive north into the Cape Winelands for a visit to the Spier estate in Stellenbosch, where you can pet “Hemingway” and “Heathcliff” at the Cheetah Outreach Center. If you’re smart, you’ll stay in Stellenbosch for dinner: more Pinotage and game (cooked this time) at the Delaire Estate winery (delairewinery.co.za; dinner for two, $80). If the superb food isn’t enough, the views are awe-inspiring: Delaire is located at the crest of the Helshoogte Mountain Pass.
*All prices have been converted to U.S. dollars. Meal prices do not include drinks, tax or tip.
NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip.
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Published: May 1, 2010
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Photos: Cape Town Tourism; Henrique Wilding
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