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Destination: Branson Leaf-Peeping
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By car, foot and rail
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BY MIKE STEVENS | PHOTOGRAPHY BY BUFF STRICKLAND
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| A cascade in Dogwood Canyon Nature Park, southwest of Branson, MO; a Branson Café breakfast; driving down to Big Cedar Lodge, just outside town. |
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The best production in the ozarks this autumn has nothing to do with prodigy fiddlers, Chinese acrobats or bucktoothed comedians
Fall in the Missouri Ozarks is nothing like the fireworks of a New England autumn. Instead of showy sugar maples exploding in garish reds, you get something that local folklorist Marideth Sisco calls “a glorious tweed.” Hickory, dogwood, oak and walnut trees color the hills in shades of crimson, amber, buttery gold and the muted bronze of old pennies. Another difference? No busloads of leaf peepers. The crowd is in town, distracted by Branson’s popular stage shows. But as the days turn mild and mosquitos start to disappear, fall is the best time to discover this entertainment mecca’s original attraction: the great outdoors. We’ve picked four of our favorite ways to see this wonderfully ragged country, from a barbecue-fueled back-roads drive to a gentle walk through a nature preserve.
DRIVE WAYS
The hills around Branson have been densely settled for more than a century, and a dizzying network of back roads connects the far-flung outposts. Warning: In the Ozarks, the term back road doesn’t mean a two-lane blacktop. The Glade Top Trail, one of the area’s loveliest drives, is a 24-mile serpentine stretch of gravel. It’s smooth-ish; don’t expect lane markers, service stations or much of anything besides stellar scenery.
But you needn’t go to such extremes to explore the countryside. Head west from Branson’s Country Mile (Highway 76), descending Route 13 toward Table Rock Lake. After you clear the Kimberling City Bridge, you’ll find a smokehouse heaven called Jill’s Bar-B-Que. As you leave the lake behind, the road gets twistier. Fields are so steep you’ll wonder how they were ever cleared of the dense hardwoods. For a two-hour trip, drive east on Route 86, a curvy stretch with a sudden blast of lake views as you approach Highway 65, which will take you back to Branson. Just off the highway in Hollister, stop at Vintage Paris for a glass of wine or an espresso (260 Birdcage Walk; 417-598-2375).
If you have a full day and feel adventurous, continue east toward Forsyth, the gateway of the Mark Twain National Forest, and pass through a wonderful jumble of forestedhills. The occasional country church and farm field will only remind you of how thickly forested this land remains. Be aware that many roads here, even paved ones, come with low water crossings. You can stop to plan out your route at Fat Daddy’s BBQ, in Forsyth. (Order the deep-fried pickles—trust us!) To find your way around, forget the GPS and pick up a Missouri Atlas & Gazetteer in Branson. Any road not included in this obsessively detailed wonder is probably only passable by mule.
OUTDOOR EASY
Dogwood Canyon Nature Park is a manicured 2,200-acre preserve that can be explored on foot, by bike, on an ATV, on horseback or in an open-air tram. The tram ride (adults, $26) includes a guided wildlife tour during which you roll through pastures where longhorn cattle, elk and bison graze. A paved six-mile trail leads deep into the canyon, past scenery where every boulder and tree seems perfectly placed, and every blade of grass perfectly groomed. Halfway down the canyon, stop at Thunder Falls, a thin but mighty waterfall. Bring some quarters to plug into the discreet fish-food vending machine; the pellets draw swarms of rainbow trout splashing in the gravelly shallows. Those fish aren’t just for show. The canyon is open to fishing, though the hourly rates are steep: A few hours of fishing with two kids will cost $95. Dogwood Canyon also makes for a spectacular outdoor classroom. Fly-casting clinics ($50) meet every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday through October.
Dogwood Canyon Nature Park; 2038 W. State Hwy. 86, Lampe; 417-779-5983; dogwoodcanyon.com
LOCO-FOLIAGE
For the lazy leaf peeper, there’s no better option than the Branson Scenic Railway. Your only worry is arriving early enough to snag a seat in one of the three dome cars. That secured, you can sit back for the two-hour round-trip through some of the region’s most majestic and rugged terrain. How rough is this landscape? When the White River Line was completed in 1905, this section of track required 284 trestles and two tunnels to cover 239 miles. The train itself is an ad hoc collection of semi-refurbished passenger cars, tugged by an Eisenhower-era locomotive. After pulling away from Branson’s historic depot, it chugs over Lake Taneycomo through the town of Hollister (and past a few eyesore shacks).
Gradually the ravines get steeper and begin rushing by, one after the other after the other. The views change swiftly, making it feel as if the train is moving much faster than its top speed of 30 mph. While a guide doles out historical tidbits and the occasional joke, the real show rushes by your window—walls of color from the red-leafed dogwoods and purple sweetgums. Close to the end of the nearly two-hour tour, the train slows to a stop on a curving trestle above Walnut Creek, allowing an overview of the wild country you’ve just traversed.
Branson Scenic Railway; 206 E. Main St., Branson; 800-287-2462; bransontrain.com; adults, $25
THE STRIP RUNS TO IT
One of the best outings is right in town, or almost. The Ruth & Paul Henning Conservation Area sits at the western end of Branson and covers 1,534 forested acres. A half-mile-long paved trail meanders through the russet-colored forest and up to a clearing, or “bald” as it’s called in the Ozarks.
You descend quickly from the parking lot next to Roark Creek, and after a half-mile the land seems to swallow you up. Once on the valley floor, you hike a half-mile stretch along the Roark, one of hundreds of headwater Ozark streams. You’ll soon feel far removed from the manmade entertainment of Branson, mesmerized instead by the song and dance of Mother Nature.
Ruth & Paul Henning Conservation Area; 417-895-6880; mdc.mo.gov; free
EAT
JILL’S BAR-B-QUE
This is an Ozarks barbecue joint: wood
walls, sticky checker-cloth-covered
tables and a waiter who looks as if he
eats two plates of ribs for breakfast.
Order pretty much anything that’s done
time on their massive smoker, which
you’ll smell even before you open the
car door. 8922 State Hwy. 13, Lampe;
417-779-0034; lunch for two, $35*
FAT DADDY’S BBQ
The large collection of haphazardly parked
pickups outside testifies to the great food
here. Though the barbecue is very good,
try the delicious fried catfish. Ignore your
cardiologist and start with deep-fried
pickles—they’re better than they have
any right to be. 16020 Hwy. 160, Forsyth;
417-546-4604; lunch for two, $28
BRANSON CAFÉ
At this old-style downtown diner,
everyone’s called “Honey” and the
regular refills keep coffee lovers
happy. Go for breakfast and try the
crisp-edged pancakes. 120 W. Main St.,
Branson; 417-334-3021; breakfast for
two, $18
WORMAN HOUSE
A meal at this casual restaurant offers a
glimpse of the Big Cedar resort experience.
You enter the grounds via a twisty descent
that maximizes views of the lake and the
resort. Over a breakfast of Belgian waffles
or a dinner of cornmeal-fried red snapper,
you can soak up views of Table Rock Lake
and the building itself, a historic Tudor with
walls of stained glass. Book ahead. Big Cedar
Lodge, 612 Devil’s Pool Rd., Ridgedale;
417-339-5200; dinner for two, $75
*Meal prices do not include drinks, tax or tip.
STAY
RCI affiliated resorts in and around Branson include:
SILVERLEAF’S HOLIDAY HILLS
A 5,771-yard par 68 metal-spike-free
golf course is right on the resort grounds.
2380 E. Hwy. 76
Member Review:
“The Presidential units have a great layout,
a huge bathroom with Jacuzzi tub and shower,
and a deck with great views.”
WYNDHAM BRANSON
A waterfall runs through the property toward
the five outdoor pools. On-site entertainment
includes the Branson Show Sampler and the
Murder Mystery Dinner. 110 Willow Bend Dr.
Member Review:
“We go to Branson four or five times a year,
and this is a favorite place to stay.”
SILVERLEAF’S OZARK MOUNTAIN RESORT
Set on the shores of Table Rock Lake. Guests
can rent boats and spend their day on the water.
146 Ozark Mountain Resort Dr., Kimberling City
Member Reviews:
“We felt like we were living in a treehouse,
as we were almost at treetop level. A great place
to relax and unwind.”
“I liked that it was not in the middle of Branson,
but close enough to get there quickly.”
PALACE VIEW BY SPINNAKER
Take a break in the sauna or wading pool.
700 Blue Meadows Rd.
Member Review:
“The resort grounds are beautifully manicured,
with lots of grass and pretty trees. Although there
are many units, the landscaping adds a feeling of
peacefulness and privacy.”
FRENCH QUARTER
Right in the heart of Branson. There’s fun for
the kids at the children’s pool and playground.
3706 W. Hwy. 76
Member Reviews:
“This place is right on the ‘Strip,’ with easy access to
everything. It was tastefully decorated and comfortable,
with plenty of space.”
“You could easily spend the day at the resort.”
For complete member reviews
(as member reviews have been condensed)
and additional resort listings, visit RCI.com or call
Weeks: 800-338-7777
Points: 877-968-7476
Club Members, please call your specific
Club or RCI telephone number.
Non-RCI affiliated resorts:
CHATEAU ON THE LAKE
The 358 rooms in this luxury resort overlooking
Table Rock Lake have stone baths, cherry-wood
beds and hand-tooled iron lamps. Add a marina,
a 14,000-square-foot spa and a classic soda fountain,
and staying put seems like a viable option.
415 N. Hwy. 265, Branson; 888-333-5253;
chateauonthelake.com; doubles from $159
per night
EMORY CREEK B&B
Each of the six guest rooms at this Victorian inn
is decorated in honor of a famous Missourian.
The Truman suite channels a Presidential railway
car, with a majestic four-poster bed and a burgundy
velvet couch. 143 Arizona Dr., Branson;
800-362-7404; emorycreekbnb.com; doubles
from $99 per night, including breakfast
HILTON PROMENADE
AT BRANSON LANDING
This 242-room hotel is smack in the middle of
the busy Branson Landing shopping district.
Rooms feel like chic urban condos, with leather
armchairs, sleek padded headboards and
glass-walled showers. 3 Branson Landing,
Branson; 417-336-5500; hilton.com;
doubles from $179 per night
HAMPTON INN BRANSON HILLS
One exit from downtown and right next to
Branson’s newest (and possibly nicest) golf
course, this 98-room chain hotel could be
the best option for anyone seeking a budget-
conscious hotel. 200 S. Payne Stewart Dr.,
Branson; 417-243-7800; hamptoninn.com;
doubles from $99 per night
NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip.
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Published: Fall 2011
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