In the run up to the 2008 Summer Olympics, China’s capital has been in the throes of a mega makeover. The last five years have seen nonstop construction physically remake Beijing on a scale comparable to the 15th-century building boom of the Ming Dynasty. The biggest names in architecture lead the way, brightening the city’s grimly utilitarian skyline with whimsical, mind-boggling buildings. Once dour, Beijing now buzzes with hotel openings, hip nightclubs and a wave of ambitious new restaurants, each jockeying for the attention of the 1.5 million visitors expected in August. Although much of this grand face-lift started with the wrecking ball, pockets of Old Beijing have been saved, ironically, by entrepreneurs. This ad hoc preservation movement has transformed dozens of traditional courtyard buildings into funky stores and boutique hotels. As China’s growing pains—from human rights abuses to woeful pollution controls—continue to play themselves out, this once-closed society and its capital have not only emerged but are on the rise. Consider this a glimpse of the next dynasty.
OLYMPIC FEATS
To get a sense of how quickly things are changing here, look to the upcoming Olympics. Four years ago, paint was still drying during the opening ceremonies in Athens. In contrast, months before the Olympic torch is lit to kick off the Games in Beijing, China has already built or renovated all but one of the 31 competition stadiums.
What’s being built is even more impressive than the speed of construction. The National Stadium, nicknamed the “Bird’s Nest” for its thatch of interlocked steel girders, is already a city landmark. The swimming stadium next door also draws gawking tourists. Dubbed the “Water Cube,” its honeycomb-like walls glow after nightfall.
And it’s not just Olympic venues that are commanding attention. Most visitors will step off their plane into Norman Foster’s soaring Terminal Three. The 10-million-square-foot air terminal (the world’s largest) has a glass roof suspended from steel pillars.
The drive downtown, on new freeways, of course, takes visitors past a pair of wildly cantilevered towers tethered by a sky bridge. Designed by the cutting-edge Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas, this gravity-defying building will be the headquarters of state broadcaster CCTV. An adjacent building, also designed by Koolhaas, will house a Mandarin Oriental, the latest in a parade of new luxury hotels.
Continuing to the heart of the city, the new National Grand Theater sits just off Tiananmen Square. Like Beijing’s other icons du jour, this titanium-skinned bubble-shaped structure, designed by Frenchman Paul Andreu, has received a fitting pet name of its own: “The Egg.”
OLD BEIJING, NEW FLAVORS
All this construction comes at a price. Demolition crews have razed entire districts of Beijing’s siheyuan (traditional low-rise courtyard houses) and the surrounding hutongs, or alleyways. Rather than fight the current, a growing preservation movement has embraced the booming economy and refashioned these historic structures as small hotels, boutiques and chic cafés.
The best example of this phenomenon can be found near Hou Hai Lake. A two-hour rickshaw tour (about $25) takes you down labyrinthine alleyways and past imperial residences. For boutique shopping, stroll Yan Dai Xie Jie, one of Beijing’s loveliest streets, just east of the Silver Ingot Bridge. At dusk make your way to Lotus Lane for an alfresco meal at one of the lakefront cafés. Afterwards, plunge back into the alleyways for jazz at Le Baie des Anges, a hip new wine bar run by two brothers from Nice. 5 Nanguanfang Hutong; snacks from $15
In the financial district, the Whampoa Club raised the culinary bar even as it saved one of the area’s last remaining courtyard homes. Pioneering Chinese chef Jereme Leung tweaks tradition with dishes like bean curd and vegetable roll with foie gras terrine, and roasted leg of lamb with cumin. 23A Financial St.; 011-86-10-8808-8828; dinner for two, $140*
Go all the way, and stay overnight at the tony Hotel Côté Cour SL, in a converted courtyard building. The 14 guest rooms blend tradition (handmade silk linens, dark antique wooden chairs) with modern conveniences like flat-screen televisions and walk-in showers. 70 Yan Yue Hutong, Dong Cheng Qu; 011-86-10-6512-8020; www.hotelcotecoursl.com; doubles from $168
WHAT LIES AHEAD
The Olympics will undoubtedly be stage-managed to show the world a modern, forward-looking nation. The truth is, of course, more complex, but what’s undeniable is that Beijing can now rub shoulders with London, Paris and Tokyo. So let the Games—and Beijing’s reign—begin.
THE PAST IS PRESENT
Modern Beijing dazzles, but nothing compares to the ancient monuments found in and around this historic metropolis.
HITTING THE WALL
With its size and history, the Great Wall has no peer. Although much of its 4,000-plus miles is in disrepair, the sections near Beijing (within 50 miles) have benefited from extensive renovation.
Bypass the crowds of tourists at the Badaling section; head to Mutianyu or Simatai.
Formal tours can be deadly dull. Ask your hotel to arrange a car and guide, or try negotiating a flat-fare round-trip with a cabbie.
For more time on the Wall, ask guide William Lindesay, a Briton who once ran the Wall’s entire length, to organize a hike with an overnight farmhouse stay. www.wildwall.com
MAO SIGHTS
The Forbidden City, in the center of Beijing with its famous Chairman Mao portrait at the entrance, was once home to emperors. Allow at least a half-day to explore this cavernous space and its endless courtyards, and pick up a self-guided audio device when you enter.
A HEAVENLY END
Slightly less grandiose, but nonetheless impressive, is the Temple of Heaven in south Beijing, where emperors went to pray for good harvests.
BEATS AND EATS
Forget the surly waiters and poorly translated menus of yore. These super-chic dining rooms serve trendy bites and double as dance clubs after sundown.
LAN CLUB For “wow” factor, check out this cavernous new restaurant where gold eagles hover over red velvet sofas. In tented nooks, diners choose between sushi or fiery Sichuan fare. International DJs get the crowd dancing in the small hours. 4/F Twintowers B-12, Jianguomenwai Ave.; 011-86-10-5109-6012; dinner for two, $110*
BLOCK 8 The see-and-be-seen bar for Beijing’s young elite. In summer, the roof is a beach bar. There’s Japanese and Mediterranean food, but Block 8 is mostly about fun. 8 Chaoyang Xi Lu; 011-86-10-6508-8585; dinner for two, $45
BLU LOBSTER Foodies swoon over Brian McKenna’s “molecular” menu, which includes a 42-ingredient salad with hazelnut mayonnaise and a slow-cooked egg. Shangri-La Hotel, 29 Zizhuyuan Rd.; 011-86-10-6841-2211, ext. 6727; dinner for two, $180
GREEN T HOUSE The minimal interior belies a culinary wild streak: Wasabi prawns dance with mango salsa; roasted lamb comes shrouded in oolong tea leaves. Gimmicky? Maybe, but it’s delicious. 6 Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang District; 011-86-10-6552 8310; dinner for two, $100
*Prices are for a meal for two, without drinks, tax or tip.
STAY
Hotels are booked solid for the Olympics—but look for bargains afterward, thanks to the construction boom.
RCI®-affiliated resorts in Beijing include:
BLG-BEIJING LONGTOU APARTMENT
BEIJING SHIHAO INTERNATIONAL HOTEL
For more information, visit RCI.com or call
Weeks: 800-338-7777
Points: 877-968-7476
NON-RCI-AFFILIATED BEIJING HOTELS:
THE PENINSULA
8 Goldfish Lane, Wangfujing;
011-86-10-6601-6666;
www.peninsula.com; doubles
from $350
RITZ-CARLTON BEIJING,
FINANCIAL STREET
1 Jin Cheng Fang St. E.,
Financial St.; 011-86-10-
6601-6666; www.ritzcarlton.com;
doubles from $200
NOVOTEL XIN QIAO
2 Dong Jiao Min Xiang; 011-
86-10-6513-3366; www.novotel.com;
doubles from $185