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Destination: Atlantic City Revival
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Nearly a century after its Prohibition-era heyday, the boardwalk is back
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BY AUSTIN KELLEY
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| Cranberry biscotti at Formica Bros. Bakery; the Steel Pier Ferris wheel at night. |
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There’s more to Atlantic City’s old nickname, “America’s Playground,” than raucous speakeasies and glittering nightclubs. This New Jersey beach retreat was also once known for a more wholesome brand of fun—namely, great food and spectacular shows. Now, after decades of decline followed by casino-focused development, a new playground is emerging that mixes some of the old, Prohibition–era delights with more modern pleasures. Visitors can just as easily dine at a classic restaurant from Atlantic City’s heyday as they can shop at Louis Vuitton or catch a Lady Gaga concert. It’s not exactly the vintage A.C. of Martin Scorsese’s HBO series Boardwalk Empire, which started this fall, but as you’ll see, history still lives strong.
FRESH TRACKS
In his book Boardwalk Empire, on which the HBO series is based, historian Nelson Johnson writes that Atlantic City blossomed in the 1920s because of its accessibility. Ninety-nine trains, including 11 of the 16 fastest in the world, cruised in and out of A.C. each summer day. The city eventually evolved into a car-centric town, but rail travel returned in 2009 with the launch of the double-decker ACES train, which runs from New York City on weekends and is a far cry from the dreary casino buses (think leather seats and drink specials).
HISTORY SAMPLER
If you arrive in time for lunch, pop over to the White House Sub Shop, a favorite for its overstuffed sandwiches. The walls of this workingman’s deli, which opened in 1946, are plastered with photographs and memorabilia from A.C.’s past, including glossies signed by a zillion Miss Americas and a towel used by Frank Sinatra during his last show at the Sands. Dozens of friendly cooks whip up cheesesteaks and hoagies, using fresh bread supplied by the folks at Formica Bros. Bakery across the street.
When you’ve reached your caloric capacity, take a stroll down the boardwalk to Garden Pier, just north of the Trump Taj Mahal. Here the Atlantic City Museum awaits, with exhibits about the Steel Pier’s diving horses and the very first Ferris wheel. The boardwalk itself has few of the legendary hotels from Prohibition days, but near the Tropicana you can peek into the old Ritz-Carlton (now the Ritz Condominiums). It was from the Ritz’s ninth floor that crooked political boss Enoch “Nucky” Johnson ran the city in the 1920s. “Nucky had leased the entire floor from where he reigned as the ‘Czar,’” writes Nelson Johnson. With his silk robes and hedonistic lifestyle, Nucky turned the Ritz into a “lavish temple of pleasure.” Just to the north, the 19th-century Dennis Hotel was recently restored to its Victorian charm.
To get a real taste of old Atlantic City, leave the boardwalk and hit the traditional eateries. Several celebrity-chef restaurants have recently come to town—including the Borgata’s Bobby Flay and Wolfgang Puck establishments—but locals will still point you to Dock’s Oyster House. Dock’s has been run by the same Dougherty family since it first opened in 1897, and they often greet you at the door. Despite recent updates, the dining room retains its old-world feel, with a pianist playing standards from behind the bar and a menu that still lists the same century-old hits: fried oysters and crab cakes.
Farther down Atlantic Avenue, you’ll find an even greater culinary landmark. The Knife & Fork, founded in 1912, “has been a very popular spot for nearly a hundred years,” writes Johnson. It’s housed in an idiosyncratic, Flemish–style building that was first a private club and then a speakeasy until federal authorities raided it. Later, the restaurant became a hangout of the Rat Pack (Dean Martin and Jerry Lewis first performed together at the bygone 500 Club nearby) and of Burt Lancaster—it appears in the 1980 film Atlantic City as the site of his character’s celebratory lunch with Susan Sarandon.
In 2005 the Knife & Fork was purchased by the Dougherty family, of Dock’s fame, and given a makeover. It still serves traditional beef and reef fare, but the revamped menu also offers modern twists like Kobe sliders and Asian slaw. Whatever you choose, you won’t be disappointed. The wood-fire grill, extensive wine list and expanded bar make this a must stop.
MODERN THROWBACKS
Not all of the “vintage” establishments in the city are old. The Chelsea, a 1950s-style boutique hotel, opened in 2008 as the first non-gaming resort on the boardwalk in the casino area. Retro lamps and art deco mirrors accent the rooms; the two restaurants were developed in part by Philadelphia restaurateur Stephen Starr. Teplitzky’s is a chic diner and bar straight out of The Jetsons, while Chelsea Prime resembles an old-school steak house with its leather booths and black-and-white photos of 1940s A.C. The tall windows with sweeping ocean views make a perfect backdrop for a succulent T-bone.
Old-school revelry is also making a comeback. Check out the free parade put on three times a day Wednesday–Sunday by the Showboat casino, with dancers, acrobats and singers wearing feather boas and colorful costumes. Showboat may not be the spiffiest casino on the boardwalk, but you won’t find a more entertaining tribute to the glory days of the Steel Pier.
NEW TOUCHES
Had enough history? Head to the Pier Shops at Caesars, where you can browse the latest fashions at high-end boutiques (Gucci, Ferragamo) and marvel at the Water Show, a dramatic display of fountains, lights and music. Take a break in the Adirondack chairs on the mall’s third floor (which has great sunset views, by the way), then wander over to the outlet stores on The Walk.
As with shopping, Atlantic City’s entertainment scene has also gotten a serious update. With new casinos popping up across the country, the gaming industry is growing more competitive, and Atlantic City is trying to keep up with the changes by improving its other attractions. So far, the work has paid off. The city is now drawing big-name performers like Bruce Springsteen, Shakira and Lady Gaga, who’s slated for Boardwalk Hall in February.
If you don’t have tickets to a show, you’ll find plenty of action at one of the many new nightclubs and lounges. Exhibit A: Harrah’s Pool. By day, it’s a huge, watery oasis of hot tubs and palm trees. Come evening, DJs are unleashed and it transforms into an aquatic dance club with mini-cabanas and an MTV Jersey Shore vibe. The nearby Borgata also has several popular clubs and lounges with nightly DJs and live bands.
And to help you recover from your big night out, Atlantic City has tons of spas. Opt for the seashell massage ($125) at Showboat’s Vive Day Spa, which is like a hot stone treatment, but with a shore twist. The South Jersey shore, that is.
EAT
WHITE HOUSE SUB SHOP
Locals flock to this old-fashioned lunch
counter where the waitresses call you “hon”
and the sandwiches are as big as your arm—
and those are the “half” sandwiches. We dare
you to eat a whole one. 2301 Arctic Ave.;
609-345-1564; lunch for two, $16*
DOCK'S OYSTER HOUSE
Since 1897, the Dougherty family has
served some of the finest seafood on the shore.
Expect items like crabmeat au gratin and a
massive seafood fry. The raw bar, a recent
addition, offers East Coast oysters and
clams. 2405 Atlantic Ave.; 609-345-0092;
dinner for two, $80
KNIFE & FORK
Recent refurbishments have brought the
buzz back to this historic meat and
seafood stand-by, which once attracted
the likes of Frank, Dean and Sammy.
3600 Atlantic Ave.; 609-344-1133;
dinner for two, $95
CHELSEA PRIME
Located on the fifth floor of the Chelsea
Hotel, this new steakhouse recalls a
classic downtown supper club. You can’t
go wrong with the dry-aged porterhouse
and a bottle of Bordeaux. 111 S. Chelsea
Ave.; 609-428-4545; dinner for two, $110
IL MULINO
In 2008, Fernando and Gino Masci’s
empire of luxurious Italian restaurants
expanded to the Trump Taj Mahal. The
room is split in two, allowing you to choose
the white-tablecloth experience or less
expensive, trattoria-style dining. The latter
also serves up simple lunches of pizza or
pasta with, say, sausage and broccoli rabe.
Bene. 1000 Boardwalk and Virginia;
609-449-6006; dinner for two,
$56 (trattoria) or $140 (restaurant)
*Prices cover a meal for two without drinks,
tax or tip.
STAY
RCI-affiliated resorts in or near Atlantic City include:
WYNDHAM SKYLINE TOWER
Just a block from the ocean, the
boardwalk, restaurants and casino action.
The resort has a full gym, indoor pool
and two Jacuzzis, plus Wi-Fi in all units.
100 S. North Carolina Ave., Atlantic City
Member Reviews:
“Within walking distance of the casinos,
restaurants, shopping and clubs.”
“We had a one-bedroom, which was
spacious, clean and comfortable.”
“Great hot tub in the room.”
“The views from higher floors are nice.”
BLUEGREEN AT ATLANTIC PALACE
A 31-story resort on the boardwalk, with
an indoor hot tub, sauna and exercise
room. 1507 Boardwalk, Atlantic City
Member Reviews:
“The Atlantic City Historical Museum and
Art Center is within walking distance.”
“The view was fabulous.”
“Even though it was December, we had
several people surfing.”
“Go to Bally’s Blue Martini to drink,
dance and listen to a live band.”
FANTASEA RESORTS LA SAMMANA
Five miles north of Atlantic City on
Brigantine Island. The resort is a short
walk to the beach and a 10-minute ride
to Atlantic City via the hotel’s complimentary
casino shuttle. 1400 W. Brigantine Ave.,
Brigantine
Member Reviews:
“La Sammana is a hidden gem.”
“The beach was clean and beautiful.”
“We enjoyed lunch at the Laguna Grill
Martini Bar, right on the beach in
Brigantine.”
“Check out Pirate’s Den for a phenomenal
breakfast.”
RHC/BRIGANTINE BEACH CLUB
Just five miles across the inlet from
Atlantic City. All the studios and suites
are equipped with full kitchens, cable TV
and washers and dryers. 4500 W.
Brigantine Ave., Brigantine
Member Reviews:
“The cost of these spacious rooms with
the well-appointed kitchen, washer, dryer,
3 TVs and Jacuzzi was less than a
cramped hotel room in A.C.”
“Out of the noise and bustle.”
“Our room was totally remodeled and
decorated with a seaside theme.”
For more information, including complete member reviews
(as member reviews have been condensed),
visit RCI.com or call
Weeks: 800-338-7777
Points: 877-968-7476
Club Members, please call your specific
Club or RCI telephone number.
NON-RCI-AFFILIATED RESORTS:
THE CHELSEA
This retro-chic hotel has a saltwater
pool, art-deco fixtures, hip restaurants—
and no casino. Try to book an ocean-view
room in the beachfront tower, not the annex.
111 S. Chelsea Ave.; 800-548-3030;
thechelsea-ac.com; doubles from $130
per night
TRUMP TAJ MAHAL
A casino-resort with 3,000 slot machines,
210 game tables, 18 dining options,
seven bars and clubs and two event
spaces. The spa and elegant rooms and
suites provide a luxurious escape
from the action. 1000 Boardwalk;
609-449-1000; trumptaj.com; doubles
from $89 per night
THE WATER CLUB
This swank new hotel tower has a
two-story spa, a sunroom and five indoor
pools. Part of the Borgata complex, it’s
connected to some of the best dining,
gaming and dance clubs in the city.
1 Renaissance Way; 800-800-8817;
thewaterclubhotel.com; doubles from
$119 per night
HARRAH'S
Stay in the brand new 47-story
Waterfront Tower, with nicer rooms
and amenities than the old tower.
It’s also right by the pool, where
you can spend an afternoon relaxing
with a cocktail. 777 Harrah’s Blvd.;
800-427-7247; harrahs.com;
doubles from $77 per night
NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip.
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Published: Winter 2010-2011
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Photos: Pamela Pasco(2)
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