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Destination: Absolute Summer in Finland
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When the days get long, the Finns head north to Lapland, where they can hike the forest trails, visit with reindeer, forage for cloudberries and drink pure water from mountain streams
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BY ANDY SYMINGTON
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| Panning for gold on the Ivalojoki River near Saariselkä; the Jätkänkynttilä Bridge, a Rovaniemi landmark; a smoked fish and vegetable appetizer at Nili, a restaurant in Rovaniemi. |
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There’s something intoxicating about summer in Lapland—the wide swath of territory making up the Arctic north of Finland and Sweden. Crisp, pure air; the smells of birch and pine forests; the big skies; and almost endless daylight. It is, however, a hard-earned reward: Long winters bring eight months of snow, so the short spring and explosive summer really feel like a triumphant return of life. It’s all about the great outdoors here. Folks from the urban south come for an uplifting dose of nature, hiking the trails in national parks and canoeing the cool rivers. Across the region there are several great bases for activity. Here, the highlights of the Finnish side of Lapland, plus a Swedish retreat.
LAPLAND’S CAPITAL: ROVANIEMI
Set near the Arctic Circle—north of this spot, there are entire summer days where the sun never sets—Rovaniemi is Lapland’s capital and gateway. The city suffered near-total destruction in World War II, but now it has modern architectural treasures that turn heads, such as the Arktikum museum (4 Pohjoisranta; 011-358-16-322-3260; arktikum.fi; adults $16*). Its exhibits show how the world’s Arctic peoples cope with life in this harsh environment, and how flora and fauna adapt by changing color, hibernating and storing energy.
Rovaniemi’s most famous resident, Santa Claus, can be visited year-round at the Santa Claus Office (1 Joulumaantie; santaclauslive.com; free). On display is a giant clock that Santa uses to stop time so he can visit all the world’s children on one night; the man himself chats with visitors in a range of languages. Letters posted to Father Christmas end up here: Among those displayed are brash requests for electronic goods and heart-rending pleas for parents’ health. In the middle
of town, the restaurant Nili (20 Valtakatu; 011-358-400-369-669; dinner for two, $120) makes use of local resources, both in the decor (animal hides as seat covers, birch bark on the walls and ceilings) and in the food. Try the duo of reindeer meat—grilled steak and tenderly braised shoulder.
BEAR COUNTRY: KUUSAMO/RUKA
Highway 81 heads east from Rovaniemi into deep forest country, not far from the Russian border. The town of Kuusamo and the ski resort of Ruka are the main settlements. This part of Finland is known for its Eurasian brown bears, which tread remote trails and are thought to be too shy to bother hikers. The Karhunkierros (Bear’s Ring) Trail is a popular 50-mile walk with overnights in communal huts
or cabins that can be reserved (a good resource is outdoors.fi). The shorter Pieni Karhunkierros (Little Bear’s Ring) distills some of the region’s best scenery into a great one-day hike.
You can observe the shaggy beasts from the comfort and safety of a hut on an excursion with Karhu Kuusamo (Kuusamo; 011-358-400-210-681; karhukuusamo.com; tours from $165 per person). To continue the theme—although many won’t have the heart—try the bear stew with honeyed vegetables on the menu at Riipisen Riistaravintola (Ruka; 011-358-8-868-1219; dinner for two, $160). This deservedly famous backwoodsy game restaurant also serves elk and grouse.
WILDERNESS WALKING: SAARISELKÄ
The ski village of Saariselkä is peaceful in summer, and close to Ivalo airport. At the edge of town, one of Europe’s last great wildernesses begins. The Urho Kekkonen National Park—an enormous tract of forest and marshland—is crisscrossed
by wide rivers and perfect for hiking, from short to multiple day treks. (For more information, go to outdoors.fi.)
The Ivalojoki River, Lapland’s answer to the Klondike, makes for a great day of canoeing or white-water rafting. To meet huskies and reindeer, or to book a guided walk in the national park, visit the tourist office (1 Kelotie; 011-358-040-168-7838; saariselka.fi) or book with a local operator, such as Eräsetti Safaris (7 Saariseläntie; 011-358-20-564-6990; erasettiwildnorth.fi; tours from $120) or Lapland Safaris (1 Kelotie; 011-358-16-668-901; lapinsafarit.fi; tours from $35). For reindeer steak and arctic char grilled on a wood plank, try Pirkon Pirtti (2 Honkapolku; 011-358-16-668-050; dinner for two, $100), a log cabin restaurant in the town center.
SAMI HEARTLAND: INARI AND LEMMENJOKI
No animal defines Lapland like the reindeer. Most are domesticated and nearly all are owned by the indigenous Sami—a modern people who round up their antlered charges using ATVs and snowmobiles, but still maintain strong links to, and respect for, Lapland’s natural world.
You can mingle with reindeer and learn about traditional Sami life in the tiny village of Inari. The Siida museum (46 Inarintie; 011-358-400-898-212; siida.fi; $12) showcases their cooking, weaving and weaponry. Thirty miles southwest, you can hike, boat and even pan for gold in Lemmenjoki National Park. Inari Event (38 Inarintie, Inari; 011-358-40-777-4339; visitinari.fi) is a culturally sensitive tour operator that runs excursions in the area. Or book a boat tour up the river and pan for gold with Heikki Paltto (Njurgulahti; 011-358-16-673-413; lemmenjoki.org; tours from $65).
FELLS AND FENLANDS: WESTERN LAPLAND
In the west, which has less forest cover, the summer’s rapid fertility is so pervasive you can almost hear the grasses and cloudberries growing. Tour operator Harriniva (Muonio; 011-358-16-530-0300; harriniva.fi; tours from $40) offers rafting, canoeing, and fishing for pike and salmon, as well as guided walks. Dog lovers should visit Harriniva’s enormous community of huskies, kept for winter sledding.
Kilpisjärvi is at Finland’s northern tip, a 260-mile drive west of Inari through epic Lapland scenery. After a day hike to the spot where Finland, Sweden and Norway meet, you can return by boat across the lake. Or climb the mushroom-shaped Saana Fell. At 3,376 feet, it’s no Everest, but the views from the top are—like the rest of this northern gem—breathtaking.
THE DETAILS
• Plenty of domestic flights leave Helsinki, Finland’s capital, for Rovaniemi. You can also fly from Helsinki to Ivalo and Kittilä.
• Trains with comfortable sleeping cars do the Helsinki–Rovaniemi run. North of Rovaniemi, buses are the only public transportation.
• Car rental is available at Rovaniemi’s airport and town center.
SWEDISH RETREAT
Östersund, set on the shores of Storsjön Lake, is both a winter sports center and a great summer base. About 300 miles north of Stockholm, it offers a chance to experience the Scandinavian wilderness without the long trip up to Lapland. This lively town has the region’s best restaurants and pubs—Norwegians have been known to cruise over from Trondheim, 160 miles away, for cold beers that won’t break the bank.
Don’t miss Jamtli (Museiplan; 011-46-63-150-100; jamtli.com; adults $9), an open-air museum where you can learn about life on a traditional farm, drive a 1950s pedal car and pose for a 19th-century photo. You can also see thousand-year-old Viking tapestries.
Outside Östersund the great outdoors beckons, with extensive trails, decent golf courses and a farm that doubles as a zoo, where you can see hundreds of moose. Soak up summer by taking a steamboat cruise on Storsjön Lake aboard the
SS Thomée (011-46-63-144-001; ostersund.se/thomee; adults $16). And keep your camera handy: Somewhere in Storsjön’s murky waters lives the Storsjö monster, a Swedish cousin of the one in Loch Ness. Late July brings the Storsjöyran music festival (storsjoyran.se; one-day tickets $75), nearly half a century old and one of Scandinavia’s premier music events.
At the top of Östersund’s spectacularly lit modern water tower sits Arctura (13 Ösk-vägen; 011-46-63-161-560; dinner for two, $135), a restaurant serving contemporary Swedish food. Savor arctic char with cauliflower purée and leeks au gratin while taking in the stunning views of lake and town.
STAY
RCI affiliated resorts in Finnish Lapland include:
HOLIDAY CLUB KELORINNE
At this resort four miles from
the Russian
border, you can stay in log cabins right on
the slopes. On-site restaurant and indoor
swimming pool. 2 Revontulentie, Sallatunturi
HOLIDAY CLUB PYHÄ
Apartment-style units equipped with fireplaces
and saunas, 60 miles north of the Arctic Circle.
Keskusvaraamo Pyhähippu,
Pyhän Liikekeskus,
2 Käärmepolku, Pyhätunturi
Member Reviews:
“The units are in a natural forest setting, with
reindeer everywhere.”
“Everything you need
is provided, and the supermarket is a five-minute
drive away.”
HOLIDAY CLUB KUUSAMON TROPIIKKI
Hotel units, studios, and one-, two- and three-
bedroom units are available. A covered walkway
leads to the resort spa, with its solarium cave,
slide and jacuzzis. 5 Kylpyläntie, Kuusamo
HOLIDAY CLUB YLLÄS 1
Every unit here has a fireplace, full kitchen and
its own sauna. Spend your days canoeing and
fishing for salmon. 3 Äkäsentie, Äkäslompolo
Member Review:
“Peaceful and quiet, beautiful location for log
cabins in the woods. Surrounded by cross-country
ski trails, and very close
to the lake.”
HOLIDAY CLUB SALLA
Two-bedroom units in eastern Lapland, close to the
Russian border. A car is necessary here.
In summer,
you can visit the nearby reindeer park.
2 Revontulentie,
Sallatunturi
For complete member reviews
(as member reviews have been condensed)
and additional resort listings, visit RCI.com or call
Weeks: 800-338-7777
Points: 877-968-7476
Club Members, please call your
specific Club or RCI telephone number.
NON-RCI AFFILIATED RESORTS:
HOTEL SANTA CLAUS
Rovaniemi’s top hotel is in the heart of town, with
spacious rooms, attentive service and appealing
restaurants. 29 Korkalonkatu, Rovaniemi;
011-358-16-321-321;
hotelsantaclaus.fi;
doubles from $125 per night
HOTEL LEVI PANORAMA
A hilltop hotel in Levi, a ski resort in western
Lapland 100 miles north of Rovaniemi. It has
comfortable, typically Nordic rooms and great
views. 205 Tunturitie, Sirkka/Levi;
011-358-16-336-3000; levipanorama.fi; doubles
from $135 per night
HOTEL KULTAHOVI
This welcoming, family-run spot is Inari’s best
hotel, right by the river rapids. The rooms in the
“river” section are larger and more modern.
2 Saarikoskentie, Inari; 011-358-16-511-7100;
hotelkultahovi.fi; doubles from $150 per night
HARRINIVA HOLIDAY CENTER
This complex offers a wide range of accommodations,
from simple huts to comfortable pine-clad rooms to
large apartments with their own saunas. Muonio;
011-358-16-530-0300; harriniva.fi; doubles from
$50 per night
*Prices are given in U.S. dollars. Meal prices do not include drinks, tax or tip.
NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip.
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Published: Summer 2011
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Photos: Saariselka.FL; Timo Vejalainen/Av-Lappi; Restaurant Nili
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