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Asia > Tokyo, Japan

Shopping: A Walk on the Wild Side

Browsing Tokyo’s trendy Harajuku district,
for Snoopy chopsticks, satin bustiers and more

BY STEPHEN FORSTER | PHOTOGRAPHY BY TOMAS REYES

From left: Takenoko dress-up clothes; a Harajuku hipster; doggie duds at Pet Paradise.

In addition to soaring temples and sublime gardens, Tokyo is famous these days for its groundbreaking pop culture and style—much of which is found in the bright, brash Harajuku district (not far from Meiji Shrine, a popular tourist spot). High-style urban gear, comic-book manga, cartoon anime and kitsch fill the stores and stalls on Harajuku’s main drag, Takeshita-dori, and on all seven floors of LaForet—a citadel of cool shops that tend to dictate current fashions for Japanese kids. (Since the clothes are geared toward slim Japanese youngsters, sizes won’t always meet American expectations.) You’ll need fortification before tackling Harajuku, so cross Omotesando to Fujimamas (6-3-2 Jingumae; 011-81-3-5485-2283) for wok-flashed swordfish with avocado salsa. Or try To The Herbs (1-14-27 Jingumae; 011-81-3-3423-2700) for fusion fare of a different ilk, such as spaghetti with cod roe, squid and perilla, a minty herb. This part of Tokyo thrives on the new.

Note: Japanese addresses can be confusing. For example, Jingumae refers to an area, not a street. Ask for directions.

SNOOPY TOWN
Steps from Harajuku Station is a staggering array of highly coveted Snoopy paraphernalia—from cufflinks, gumballs and chopsticks to crash helmets, mouse pads and waffle irons ($65). 1-14-27 Jingumae; 011-81-3-5770-4501

TAKENOKO
Stop here for sequined top hats, harem pants, five-inch platform boots and drum majorette uniforms ($55), all perfect for cosplay, the Japanese trend of dressing like one’s favorite outlandish manga or anime character. 1-6-15 Jingumae; 011-81-3-3402-0329

PET PARADISE
Though it does stock such mundane items as leashes and carriers, Pet Paradise is all about canine clothing. If Fido’s a Dodgers fan, you can select from a wide range of MLB shirts and caps ($28 a set). Also for sale: doggie-shaped penguin costumes and a polka-dot Minnie Mouse dress and bonnet combo. 1-6-5 Jingumae; 011-81-3-3497-0379

A BATHING APE
Nigo’s phenomenally successful A Bathing Ape (BAPE) streetwear—ultra-cool bold-print hoodies, camouflage T-shirts ($55) and sneakers in striking colors—has spawned several brands of BAPE fakes; this store sells the originals. 4-28-22 Jingumae; 011-81-3-5474-0204

UKIYOE OTA MEMORIAL MUSEUM OF ART
Not a shop, but a museum housing one of Japan’s finest collections of ukiyoe (wood-block prints). Look for the magnificent pine bonsai in the open stairwell. The gallery displays 70 of the museum’s 12,000 ukiyoe at a time. 1-10-10 Jingumae; 011-81-3-5777-8600; ukiyoe-ota-muse.jp

DÉCORER
From flower-power hot pants to ’50s-style low-heel pumps, the selection is fabulously retro at Décorer, a boutique in the LaForet mall. Paisley patterns are still in here, as are gold-sprayed sneakers and lace petticoats. It’s just the place to snag a Rocky Horror Picture Show T-shirt ($10). LaForet B1F; 011-81-3-3401-7753

ZOOL
Selling thigh-high leopard skin boots, pink tutus and sombrero-size orange felt hats, Zool is not for shrinking violets. Here you can choose among flowing crepe scarves, silver fingerless gloves, gold lamé bras and gargantuan glasses that even Elton John might find outrageous. LaForet 3.5F; 011-81-3-5414-1980

EMILY TEMPLE CUTE
Even the saleswomen here wear long, cotton dresses and flowers in their hair as they attend to similarly attired customers. Lace parasols and pastel floral prints abound, and every skirt falls demurely below the knee. The look is a vivid contrast to the in-your-face fashions most kids wear in Harajuku. LaForet 4F; 011-81-3-3404-7766

Published: Sept/October 2007 Issue