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Destination: A Look at San Miguel
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Mexico's famed colonial city is full of surprises, from bees in honey bottles to jazz jam sessions
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BY NECEE REGIS
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| The James Harvey Studio Gallery, one of many shops at Fabrica La Aurora; San Miguel's iconic La Parroquia church. |
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Historic San Miguel de Allende sits in the rugged Mexican sierra like a bright flower in a dusty sage and gray landscape. Located four hours north of Mexico City, 6,500 feet above sea level, this prosperous town of 80,000 is filled with stylish restaurants and boutiques, bars, shops selling touristy trinkets, and countless arts and crafts galleries. There’s more than enough to keep its visitors, and its many American and Canadian expats, happily entertained.
TAKE A WALK
The best way to enjoy the historic district, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is to simply stroll the cobblestone streets. Take time to gaze at the endless variety of carved wood doors and buildings painted a kaleidoscope of Venetian red, ochre, burnt umber, cayenne, cerulean, emerald and vermillion. The heart of town is El Jardin, a plaza with a central gazebo surrounded by neatly trimmed trees. During the day, artists bring their easels here to paint and street vendors hawk their wares. In the evening, the square swells with townspeople and tourists, while mariachi bands play beneath the illuminated spires of the neo-Gothic cathedral, La Parroquia.
ARTFUL MARKETS
It’s a short cab ride to the Tuesday market on the outskirts of town. Under colorful tarps, merchants sell fresh fruits and vegetables, locally made honey (with bees in the bottles), new and used clothing (the latter piled three feet high on long tables), small electronics, toys, toiletries, candy, hand-painted crafts and much more. As you stroll, you can gorge on treats like blue-corn gorditas stuffed with chicken and potatoes. Each one will set you back only 10 pesos (less than $1 USD).
Fabrica La Aurora, a 10-minute stroll north of the town center, was once a textile factory. It’s now an art and design center, filled with dozens of shops and artists’ studios (fabricalaaurora.com). Shoppers will find paintings, jewelry, clothing, local crafts, books and furnishings for the home and garden. There’s also a café for small bites, and two restaurants serving cocktails, sushi and international cuisine.
REINVIGORATE
To soothe your tired feet, head to one of the hot-springs parks just off the main highway about six miles from town. At Escondido, you move from one thermal pool to the next through a series of domed grottos, the water becoming hotter as you go (52-415-185-2022; escondidoplace.com; about $7 USD).
In San Miguel, it’s easy to find live music in the evening. Trumpeter Doc Severinsen, who was Johnny Carson’s beloved bandleader for decades, is alive and well and living part-time in San Miguel. When he’s not off touring, you’ll find him jamming at Bella Italia with his pals, classical guitarist Gil Gutierrez and violinist Pedro Cartas. The food is so-so, but the music dazzles. Stick to salads and wine and you won’t be disappointed (21 Calle Canal; 52-415-152-4989; dinner for two about $50 USD, with drinks but without tax or tip).
NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip.
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Published: June 1, 2010
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Photos: Fabrica La Aurora; Mexico Tourism Board
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